Summer's Here--Air Problem

[hermitrl]

I bought a refill kit with a oil treatment, moisture treatment and a sealer to get my air up and running again. All was fine---the low pressure guage sut the compressor off at 29 pounds. It then triggered at 45 or so and the air was good and cold.
It was real hot Friday and we had to go for a trip of about 300 miles. I pulled into the parking lot nd heard a ripping sound every time I hit the gas. Turns out there was a jet of freon and oil coming out the back of the compressor?
This happened about 10 times. After that it seemed to cycle just fine--the pressure was ok on the low side--but the air was not getting very cold.Anyone know what may be wrong before I add more coolant?

 

[metstalker]

so the compressor only leaks some times?

 

[hermitrl]

It dosn't seem to leak at all.

 

[hermitrl]

AT present it cycles on for about 15 seconds--off for 10. The air is now cold enough to remove water from the air but it still gets uncomfortable in the cabin. I think that the oil charge put too much oil into the compressor and the excesive pressure ejected oil out the rear of the compressor.

 

[monkeydude3]

I'm confused. HOw does a compressor leak sometimes. Either it leaks or it doesn't. Hmmm ?:-/

 

[hermitrl]

The compressor does not leak. The excessive pressure either got by a seal momentarily or there is a relief valve present.
I wrote to the manufacturer of the kit. perhaps they will have some information for me.
I bled the system from the high pressure side along with some oil present. I then added more refrigerant to get a low pressure reading of 30 just before the compressor kicks out. It seems to be colder now---but will have to wit for a very hot day to reproduce the conditions I had the problem in.

 

[Glacier991]

I am in agreement with your assessment. You have WAY too much oil in the system and it's probably showing up as a non-compressible in the pump causing a HUGE spike in pressure and causing the problem you describe. It is DEFINITELY not good for the compressor!

IF the compressor has survived ok, I'd have the system charge recovered at a shop with a decent recovery machine that will also recover the oil along with the refrigerant and separate it, evacuate the system and add the proper oil and refrigerant charge to get back to a proper level. I'd be interested to know how much oil they recover.From now on... no more oil, just refrigerant!

ps. Wanna guess some of the reasons I do not favor these DIY home recharge kits? (g)

pps. I'd replace the accumulator while yer at it. it will give you a better baseline and is probably not a bad idea in any event.

 

[hermitrl]

Thanks for the reply Glacier. I am going to take it in and get it evacuated and recharged.
Thereason I use the home kits are because of the huge expense involved with taking it to a garage. I paid a few grand for the truck and hoped to get a year or 2 out of it. If I could get the air operating for a couple hundred all the better--but if not----drive with the windows open.
I got away with a can of sealer and a can of refrigerant last year compared to over 400 in parts and unknown labor.
Now that I know it is not leaking and only needs to be charged properly---I will take it in and get it done.

 

[Glacier991]

Hermitrl... I wasn't flaming you. I understand the appeal of the kits. I'd just rather see people buy gauge sets and use cans of 134 and get a better sense of the process is all. I'd be tempted if for $20 I thought I might get cold air too.

Nothing personal, y'understand? More kinda like teaching a man to fish instead of givin em a fish.

Oh, being a first Gen 92, I AM assuming your system WAS converted somewhere along the way to 134.

 

[hermitrl]

Actually--it was converted to some weird type--Frigid? I know you weren't flaming me. I'd be all for a reasonably priced kit with guages and solid instructions.

 

[Glacier991]

well the Useful Forum's thread on AC and the links are probably the best compendium you are going to get on how to and using gauges...

and hmmm... a blend eh? what did you add to it last year ? 134? I won't get started on blends (you can read my rants in the other Converting to 134 thread.)

 

[hermitrl]

Well---Here is my reply from the manufacturer. I know how you feel about these guys Glacier---but was my only home option up here.
Hi
From what you have told me its sounds like you have an air flow problem through the condenser and the relief valve opened as a result of high pressure on the high side of the system - I would check the Fan Clutch on your truck if this continues to happen.
You can call us toll free at 1 888 463 2665 and we can explain in detail what may be happening
Team Duracool

 

[Glacier991]

well actually of the blends Duracool seems well backed. And their comments in your case are certainly valid ones. Hadn't thought of that angle. Let us know what you find.

R-134 in particular, as well as some of the blends will run real HIGH high sides - 350 PSI plus) so much higher than the old R-12 that many retro kits from mfgr's in the mid 90's included a high side relief valve. Makes a properly working condenser and fan an important thing. Sometimes the original condenser if it was a convert from R-12 was not truly big enough to be ideally sized for the converted system.

 

[hermitrl]

Here is my take on what is going on. I overfilled the thing with oil. When the compressor kicks in the oil is being mixed into the coolant and ruining the cooling capabilities. It seems when first starting it the compressor cycles fine--shutting off at 26 pounds or so. It triggers at 45 or so. As it runs the oil gets into the coolant and pressure rises and then the low side never drops low enough to kick the compressor off. Thats when the pressure gets excessive.
I am going to take her into a air garage payday and see what he can suck out of it and recharge it properly. The home repair thing is out of hand for me now. I'll let you know what they find. Thanks again.