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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
When the first time the new tune is installed, sometimes vehicles don't start.
Even after entering the injector files, maf files etc it happens that way sometimes.
Just changing the diameter of the MAF tube can affect the tune in a way that throws the A/F way off.
When this happens the tuner will usually add or subtract 20% fuel by way of the MAF transfer function on MAF vehicles.
Then you get to load the next new tune and try again.
That's a good try, but it looks like the extra idler pulley can still move a good bit to the left and around the PS pulley, maybe 3/4" or so. Does the steel mounting piece rotate to the left at all? I'm wondering if a new hole down to the left in the same piece will let the pulley move some more.
BTW, do you have any spare used pulley of any kind, with the bolt and washer? That new pulley I think needs a washer under the bolt head, the OEM kind often have a nice washer that fits the pulley well.
Dam I forgot the washer I just saw that
Ill put one on it tomorrow as far as moving the pulley I'm just gonna see how it goes when we finely get this thing started
really rich soaked spark plugs
I Put the old ones in and it seemed a little better stumbled for a second that's it
Pulled a plug again and it was wet
I checked for spark with a inline spark tester
And listening to the injectors with a stethoscope all good
I did a fuel pressure test and a fuel pressure leak down test all good there
I'm just gonna have to see what he says in the email
That's good that you are being patient with it, and it started. Plugs are fragile and often when new will foul if the mixture is way off etc. So do what you have to to get it going, and be ready to replace the plugs again as needed. I miss the old days when plugs were less than a dollar, not on sale.
Prices have gone up, way up. I've priced what it would take to build a SBF, and it's scary. In the 80's it would be $750 for a nice stock rebuild, or $2k for a lot of hipo parts build. Now stock may run $1500, and a full powerful build is easily $4k and far above. Pick your poison, the blower is a good choice.
do you have a welder? could you not add a piece of metal to the back of the bracket that you made, then put like a elbow going to the bolts that are on top of your power steering bracket?
do you have a welder? could you not add a piece of metal to the back of the bracket that you made, then put like a elbow going to the bolts that are on top of your power steering bracket?
How was the fuel pressure, and is there any A/F data to record for that short period? After every 2-3 rough attempts it might be a good time to check a plug also.
Maybe today's MAFs are more accurate but "back in the day" they came with a calibration sheet based on bench flow testing them. This is what was used in the tune for the MAF flow data.