Sway Bar Bushings?

[koda2000]

when i first test drove my 5.0L RWD 2001 Eddie B. w/180k on it last summer, i immediately noticed that when turning the steering wheel at low speed (like when getting out of a parking space) i could hear kind of creaking/binding in the front end. upon inspection i noticed the ball joint boots were all but gone and the ball joints looked rusty. i replaced the upper control arms and lbj's last fall, with Moog's, and replaced the sway bar end links while i was at it. the tie rod ends seemed good, so i didn't mess with them.

well, it still makes the same noise. now i'm thinking it might be the sway bar bushings. pretty easy fix if it is, but they don't look bad and it's seems to me to be more of a dry metal-on-metal kind of noise ??? i've noticed it only makes the noise after driving a while. backing out of the garage cold it never does it. any thoughts?

if i do replace the sway bar bushings i'm thinking of going with Energy Suspension with grease fittings. i don't know... maybe inner tie rod ends?

 

[Flash]

I pulled the sway bar bushes out of my XLT to find that they were packed with extremely fine dust probably carried in there by water.
You can grease the bushes but if they're rubber don't use mineral grease.
If they're polyurethane or similar use teflon grease.

DO NOT use molybdenum grease, you know, the stuff that they used to supply with polyurethane bush kits.

 

[swshawaii]

The ES greaseable brackets with bushings worked well for me using the graphite impregnated "G" model.
I lube with lithium grease every oil change. Unfortunately your 34mm front sway bar is in between ES sizes.
http://www.suspension.com/s.b.bushings.htm

Polyurethane front sway bar kit including end links without brackets. (Frame bushings not available separately)
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4.5155

 

[koda2000]

The ES greaseable brackets with bushings worked well for me using the graphite impregnated "G" model.
I lube with lithium grease every oil change. Unfortunately your 34mm front sway bar is in between ES sizes.
http://www.suspension.com/s.b.bushings.htm

Polyurethane front sway bar kit including end links without brackets. (Frame bushings not available separately)
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4.5155

i have the towing package, does that still use the 34mm front sway bar? i think i'm going to take the sb bushings loose to examine and grease them. if that doesn't solve the problem it's gotta be tie rod related.

 

[swshawaii]

I'm sure YOU know how, but use the caliper, open end, or crescent wrench instructions in the first link.

 

[koda2000]

I'm sure YOU know how, but use the caliper, open end, or crescent wrench instructions in the first link.

oh yeah, i know how... just lazy.

 

[delexploder]

I have the ES end links and bushings front and back on my sport 5 or 6 years no problems

 

[swshawaii]

If they're polyurethane or similar use teflon grease. DO NOT use molybdenum grease, you know, the stuff that they used to supply with polyurethane bush kits.

Interesting you mentioned this. From Suspension Restoration Parts Company:

Note from SRP: The Formula 5 PreLube offered by Energy Suspension and included in most sets where grease is required, is actually MARINE BOAT TRAILER GREASE. This is a high paraffin (wax) based grease that sticks to anything it touches. We do not like this grease because it contains wax(paraffin). We prefer to use Permatex or Loctite Anti Seize(never seize) grease. You can purchase it at most all auto parts stores or hardware stores. This grease has graphite in it, but does not have the wax. Anti-Seize grease is normally recommended for use on sparkplug threads when installed on aluminum heads, so the threads will not seize. It is a hi-temp and hi-pressure grease.

http://www.suspension.com/4-bar.htm (Scroll down)

 

[Flash]

Graphite should be ok but molybdenum shouldn't be used on a soft surface like polyurethane.
It still would recommend teflon.