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Sway Bar Link Bad?

mranderson214

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 3, 2010
Messages
162
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1
City, State
Brooklyn, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 XLT
Hey Everyone,

I've got a 2002 Explorer XLT with roughly 192,500 miles on it. V6 engine etc, all stock.

Just about an hour ago, I noticed a clicking sound from the front end as soon as I pulled into a parking spot in a lot. I investigated it by checking for loose lug nuts on the front wheels. It didn't take long for me to realize that there was something different about what was behind the front passenger wheel, considering I know the car like the back of my hand at this point.

I immediately noticed that this was disconnected. After some research I think it might be the sway bar link, but I just wanted some verification on anyone here who has more experience. I've owned the car since 140K miles and I never changed those, judging by the looks of it, I think they might be the original sway bar link.

I just wanted to verify if this was actually the sway bar link that is loose/disconnected. This is taken from behind the front passenger wheel. If so, is this a bad/costly replacement or is it usually a 1-2-3 in a shop?

Although I didn't notice any difference in driving it at around 30mph for about a mile, I obviously plan to get it changed ASAP, like tomorrow.. Don't want the wheels or anything to fall off.

I've attached the links to the images:
http://imgur.com/n1InH8U,bWGVBnB,WNRoQNR#1
http://imgur.com/n1InH8U,bWGVBnB,WNRoQNR#0
http://imgur.com/n1InH8U,bWGVBnB,WNRoQNR#2


Thanks for your help!
 



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Thanks for the prompt reply. I plan to get it fixed tomorrow, but just wanted some insight on what I'm getting into.

Thanks again!
 






Replaced both of mine a while ago. I had to cut mine off as the inner bolt was seized to the inside of the tube. I hope the grease I see on the CV joint boot is not coming from a crack in the boot itself. If it is you have another job ahead of you.
 






Replaced both of mine a while ago. I had to cut mine off as the inner bolt was seized to the inside of the tube. I hope the grease I see on the CV joint boot is not coming from a crack in the boot itself. If it is you have another job ahead of you.

I'd hope it's coming from the front struts but I kinda doubt it. I know that my front drivers side strut was leaking a little oil and that was next on my agenda to change, before the whole sway bar link thing came up.

I tried searching for symptoms of bad CV joints before but I don't have any of the other symptoms besides this grease on the boot, which I just noticed today. I'll have them take a look at that as well. Thanks
 







Yes definitely Sway Bay Links and your best bet is to go with the Moog ones. I can pretty much guarantee that that is your noise. Start with the links first then you can here if there are any other noises coming from the front suspension. The grease there is coming from the ripped axle boot, which does need to be replaced eventually but not right this second soon.
 






Replaced both of mine a while ago. I had to cut mine off as the inner bolt was seized to the inside of the tube. .

Same here on both counts. I used a 4 1/2 inch cut off wheel to cut thru the end link bolt shaft to remove mine. It was actually quicker removing the old ones that way. I had to play around with the suspension a bit using a jack stand under the lower control arm and my jack lifting on the frame rail (frame rail in back of the front wheels) to compress the upper and lower Sway Bar end link connection points close enough together to thread the new end link bushings and washers on to the new sway bar bolt and leave enough of the threaded end of the sway bar bolt sticking thru the sway bar hole to screw on the new lock nut. Once I got the nut started cleanly on the threads, I then torqued the nut down to manufacturer spec. I also used "Moog" Sway Bar End Links. Note, Moog only gives you a small piece of paper in the sway bar end link box with a photo of how the new bushings and washers should look after you torque them down. They do not give you torque specs, just a visual appearance of how the bushings should look compressed (slightly mushroomed) after proper nut torque is applied. Do not torque the nut down to the bottom thread on the threaded bolt shaft or you will likely over tighten the nut and crush the bushings which will cause them to crack and split in a short time, making them useless and you'll be doing the job all over again.
 






18 foot pounds for an '05.
 






Same here on both counts. I used a 4 1/2 inch cut off wheel to cut thru the end link bolt shaft to remove mine. It was actually quicker removing the old ones that way.

+1. I popped into this thread to make sure that was stated. Once I quit monkeying with trying to unbolt the old one the job went pretty easy. Cutting the old ones out is the way to go. If you do not have a hand grinder, now is the time to buy a cheap one at Harbor Freight...I promise. :thumbsup:
 






Also you can rent a sawzall and buy a $10 hard metal cutting blade to cut them off. Was the route I had to go.
 






+1. Cutting the old ones out is the way to go. If you do not have a hand grinder, now is the time to buy a cheap one at Harbor Freight...I promise. :thumbsup:

That's where I bought mine :thumbsup: along with the Sawzall I bought from there as well. They work fine for the amount of times I use them, which isn't all that often.
 






Thanks Everyone,

I got the sway bar links done. I ended up getting both sides done as the drivers side was beginning to crack as well.

The CV boot has some grease on the outside of it, and it's confirmed that there is a little hole in the boot, which is causing grease to leak out. So I guess that's next on the agenda.

As usual, thanks for all the advice!
 






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