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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
I ordered mine from 4Xwholesalers. They didn't have them in the computer but they called warrior and got the info. They were $89 a piece plus shipping and handling. Around $200 even. I'll let you guys know how they work etc. Thanks again for the find Jobunn!!!
Originally posted by soupbone Hrmm I wonder can you use ES bushings on these disconnects. From reading that other thread on the ES it sounds interesting.
I'm wondering the same thing since I just got my ES bushings from UPS yesterday. They will be going on this weekend. Can't wait to see a review of the quick disconnects. I've been tossing around some ideas of making my own using our machine shop at work. The Warrior ones look like high quality, but they are a lot more money than I was expecting to pay. I'll wait for the review before making my own now.
Please let us know if you find a better price elsewhere, We wont be undersold!!!!
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Hello, Im looking to purchase Warrior Products WAR85212 and WAR85203 quick disconnects for ford explorer. Do you have pricing and availabilty. Thanks
Originally posted by soupbone Hrmm I wonder can you use ES bushings on these disconnects. From reading that other thread on the ES it sounds interesting.
No need to. They come with Poly bushings already pressed into them. All you'll need to do is remove the 4 bolts on the front and the 4 from the rear.... replace the link and reinstall the bolts. Done and Done.
Don't waste your money on swaybar disconnects. You can easily modify a hitch pin to work in place of the factory swaybar bolt or you can just spend a few more seconds undoing the bolt with a wrench.
I made my own disconnects with some 1/2" inside diameter tubing, 8 hitch clips, and a drill. It took a few hours, but cost me a whopping $12.00 (4 for the tubing, 8 for the clips) for both front and rear!!! They have been on there for over one year now, with no problems.
Bill is the king when it comes to packing up. I'll start before him and always end up watching him drive off before I'm done. For those of us who need every edge we can get, the disconnects are quick and easy.
Ok IM thinking on just getting the fronts and fabbing my own rears. I unhooked the rear link bolts rear easy and bungie the bar up no problem but the fronts are alot trickier. big difference off road especially in the rear.
The warrior products web page also mentions a rear skid plate for explorers, but I could not get a picture to come up. Anyone know any details about these?
I saw that.... didn't think about asking while I was at 4wp... no idea what it's for. If you want I could ask when i pick them up.... or somebody could try to call.
Ordered mine about 2 weeks ago now... lat I knew the darn things still haven't even been shipped. I had 4wp order them direct through Warrior so I could keep track of them. I had them call last week and was told that they didn't have all the parts ready yet(there's only 5... so that worries me) but they will soon. I called 4wp today and still nothing. I'm going to have them call again on Monday once Warrior is open, if they aint shipped I may cancel the order.
I just hope that once I get the product it takes the bad taste out of my mouth.
The skid plate mentioned on the Warrier web site is for the U-bolts, I already e-mailed them about it.
Does anyone know how strong the rear diff housing is? Can it take a big hit? I have hit and scraped mine several times on rocks, and it always makes me a little bit uneasy. I have heard they are very solid and the only worry is peeling back the diff cover, but lets hear some opinions please.
The cover is the weakest part. So far the only time I've ever heard of a housing breaking is from a locker. The cover however is made of Fiberglass... a must to upgrade.
The fiberglass diff cover must have only been on certain years cause mine has surface rust on it, so it must be metal. It also sounds like a tin can when you tap it with a wrench, a sure sign of thin metal. I was looking at one of those supports that go around the diff cover from Baja Concepts. all the complete skid plates I have seen take up too much of my already limited ground clearance.
Just got my disconnects for the front and rear sway bars. The front is to long and the rear is to short???? The ones Leebo got are black and these are just chrome or painted silver. I do have a 5.5" superlift but I would think that both front and back would be to short. I know I need to replace my front coils ( they are sagging and superlift will replace for free) but this shouldn't cause the front disconnects to not mate up by around a inch. Any ideas or theorys would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Ray had the same problem on his lifted too. The front was too short. I had the problem with the rear, the rear was too long.
The rear ended up working out ok. I'd guess they tested this on a stock Explorer. One of the reasons I'm sure mine works ok. The rear hangs down abit, but still works fine. Mine are also a silver not black. The pics of the black ones were the stock swaybars.
I may try to call Warrior and ask them about how well these fit on lifted Explorers. I'd bet they'd give you a different modle number than for a stock size. My best advice.... IF YOU HAVE A LIFT, MAKE SURE YOU TELL THEM WHEN YOU'RE ORDERING THEM!!!