Symptoms that seems like a bad wheel bearing...but it shouldn't be

[InuHasa]

I've been fighting multiple vibrations in my truck since back in early January...

So far i've replaced all 4 wheel bearings, upper and lower ball joints (both sides), replaced the front rotors, have new brake pads on the rear as well (front don't need to be changed yet) and a couple months ago i rotated and balanced my tires....it has solved the cases for my vibrations but whenever i replace one thing another vibration pops up

I know for a fact that the vibration is coming form the rear right, I can feel it in my butt, sometimes in the brake pedal and steering wheel, it starts off around 40mph+ and dosent vibrate as much as a bad wheel bearing but it sure feels like it. I have already replaced this wheel bearing a couple months ago (it only have a couple thousand miles on it). I also get a whirring sound as im accelerating as if i have bigger tires. Braking is smooth all around, just get squeaking when stopping at low speeds.

Any thoughts? Could my rear rotors be out of balanced?

Thanks.

 

[Trac Marks]

Was thinking warped rotor as I read your post. Any idea if the rotors on the back are stock? How many miles she got?

Another thing to look at is rust/corrosion. On the face of the wheel hub itself where the rotor seats, then on both the inside & outside of the rotor, and the inside of the wheel itself. Make sure these areas are clean of patina and level, otherwise, vibration can be expected. All 4 of my wheels had a fair amount of dissimilar metal corrosion on the inside around the lug holes.

I've not messed with the emergency brake on my truck, but this could be an issue - were your rear pads stock? Were they evenly worn - inside and out, driver & passenger side mirrored wear, or was one set worse ? Good luck

 

[InuHasa]

Was thinking warped rotor as I read your post. Any idea if the rotors on the back are stock? How many miles she got?

Another thing to look at is rust/corrosion. On the face of the wheel hub itself where the rotor seats, then on both the inside & outside of the rotor, and the inside of the wheel itself. Make sure these areas are clean of patina and level, otherwise, vibration can be expected. All 4 of my wheels had a fair amount of dissimilar metal corrosion on the inside around the lug holes.

I've not messed with the emergency brake on my truck, but this could be an issue - were your rear pads stock? Were they evenly worn - inside and out, driver & passenger side mirrored wear, or was one set worse ? Good luck

I had the same intuition as well....maybe it is too worn down and starting to warp?

The rear rotors on my truck are stock; i replaced my front rotors when i did my front hubs....i have 147xxx miles on it. I did have the driver rear rotor off recently and the hub just had rust stains from the rotor (same for the passenger side). I had a ford mechanic, didnt take it to a shop, do my rear bearings so im certain that they were reinstalled correctly along with the emergency break.

The pads are less than 2 months old and boths sides are evenly worn down and they mirror each other.

I even asked my mechanic about my diver side rotor, when he did my driver rear bearing, and he said it looked fine even though it looks like it was getting close to the minimal thickness.

 

[swshawaii]

Tire/Wheel Runout?

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=137228

 

[InuHasa]

Tire/Wheel Runout?

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=137228

hm, i never heard of that before.

Is that something cause by hittng a big pot hole and not from normal wear?

 

[Trac Marks]

Kind of along the lines of what swshawaii posted --- there are two kinds of balancing. Probably different verbage is used, but one is a spin balance and one is a road force. Spin balance spins the wheel/tire off the ground. Spun with zero resistance. Road force spins the tire against a drum with up or downforce to simulate the weight of a vehicle, or several hundred pounds atleast. Spin balance waaaay more common and less expensive, but road force is more accurate & ultimately better. Road force will detect side to side wobble, which the driver will feel as vibration. Counterweights can be added to the face, middle, or inside of the wheel.

 

[InuHasa]

Well today I replaced my rear rotors(thought it was warped rotors?)....and the problem still persists. I drove it down a bumpy road and noticed every time i hit a decent bump I heard a squeak coming from where the vibration is (rear right). Could my strut be a culprit in this? The struts i have in now have the ford tag on them (well the fronts do) so im assuming they've never been changed. Though I never had a strut problem where a vibration would come from them that starts start around 45+ when it feels like it should be something rotational. (yes i checked the CV shaft and it perfectly fine)

Tire and wheel look fine, haven't lost any weights since i last had them balanced and no noticeable uneven wear on the tire.

 

[InuHasa]

Kind of along the lines of what swshawaii posted --- there are two kinds of balancing. Probably different verbage is used, but one is a spin balance and one is a road force. Spin balance spins the wheel/tire off the ground. Spun with zero resistance. Road force spins the tire against a drum with up or downforce to simulate the weight of a vehicle, or several hundred pounds atleast. Spin balance waaaay more common and less expensive, but road force is more accurate & ultimately better. Road force will detect side to side wobble, which the driver will feel as vibration. Counterweights can be added to the face, middle, or inside of the wheel.

I was driving to work this morning and it dosent vibrate my steering at all. I thought haveing a wheel/tire balance problem would cause the steering wheel to shake indefinetly?

So at 45+ its like an 'open'(like higher pitched) growling noise and when I hit80+ the vibration starts too 'smooth' out.

 

[Trac8]

Dont know if this is your problem or not but I had experienced vibration above 45 a few months ago and it happened to be my right rear shock. I was able to tell that the vibration was coming from the rear by just looking at the rear tonneau lock as a focal point through the rear view mirror, boy was it shaking violently. If you dont have a tonneau top you might be able to have someone tail you on the road and see if the tire is boucing like crazy or not.

 

[InuHasa]

Dont know if this is your problem or not but I had experienced vibration above 45 a few months ago and it happened to be my right rear shock. I was able to tell that the vibration was coming from the rear by just looking at the rear tonneau lock as a focal point through the rear view mirror, boy was it shaking violently. If you dont have a tonneau top you might be able to have someone tail you on the road and see if the tire is boucing like crazy or not.

That is exactly what I was thinking, but I never had a shock do this before.

But I did decide to order 4 new struts, since i don't think any of them have been replaced...ever.

Hopefully this will solve it. I'll post my results after their installment.

 

[InuHasa]

So i replaced all 4 of my struts, and it almost solved my vibration problem.

I have a whirring noise coming from the passenger side fron end. I'm thinking it is the tire since it is a whirring/humming noise. Its barely notice it while city driving but at highway speeds it is very noticeable in the steering wheel and i can feel it in the body as well.

Thoughts?

 

[InuHasa]

Well I went to the shop today to have them look at it cause I was stumped.

Found out that my carrier/center bearing is shot. you can move it up and down with ease.
oh and the best news is THAT IS IT NON-SERVICEABLE and ford wants ~$1600 to replace it. great.

Found this link:http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/inde...c-7a2z-4r602-k-7a24-4k145-gd-7a244k145ge.html

does anyone know if it is worth to buy through them?

Thanks