temp gage

[bukleup]

Hello all, I have searched the forum for an answer to my heat gage problem, which is, it dosen't move from the cold position at anytime. The forum discussions say that the thermostat might be bad. some have replaced it and say the gage then worked. I am from the old shade tree mechanic school and have seen thermostates stuck open, even then you are able to read some rise in temperature at the gage. Does the new technology work differently on the new gages? I'll appreciate any feed back, thanks and have a great day,Will

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Did you try to ground the wire from the temperature sender? It sounds like a sender issue.

 

[bukleup]

No , but I plan to do that this weekend. Thanks, you have confirmed my thoughts on this. I still don't see a connection with a faulty thermostat and the heat gage staying on zero, never moving, when the outside temperature in southern indiana is 90 degrees. I'll post my results . It may be a couple weeks. Thanks again aerostar man, Bukleup.

 

[bukleup]

Well, I checked and replaced the sending unit. The gage is now working as it should. Thanks for the input.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update!

 

[98REDrang]

'cold' reading on coolant temp gauge

BB/bukleup:
I just recently noticed that my temp gauge stays 'cold' while I drive 45 miles. however after I get to where I'm going, I turn 'on' the key a few times and eventually the gage goes to where it should. I also suspect the sender over the thermostat itself.
I have the 4.0l engine
how hard(time/cost) is it to replace the unit.? my chilton book does not have an image to indicate where the sender is.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The part is about $7, and could be replaced with either a deep socket or a box wrench. It has a single pin on the top. http://www.motorcraft.com/products.do?item=9_1

 

[bukleup]

98REDrang:> The unit is on the left front top of the engine if you face the front of the vehicle. Remove the air duct from the filter to the fuel injection chamber, use duct tape to secure unit to the socket on an eight extension. good luck. Bukleup/less than 30 minutes time.

 

[98REDrang]

BU-> did you go with ford/OEM part (f7dz10884aa) or go with after market (niehoff ts83971 is the same one)?
I have seen many of my friends always shun OEM parts and go for the Kmart special. About 50% of the time the kmart 'just doesn't quite work/fit right' and back to the parts store they go. Oil filters and such I feel are the same but some lower sales volume parts I think it might make a difference and be worth the extra $ just to avoid redoing something. I don't want to get into a thread about oem/after mark but my motorcraft (Jcontrols?) battery is the original one from 10 years ago not that it relates to this part at all...

Also does FastPN have any coupon codes for shipping or discounts for this forum?

 

[bukleup]

BU-> did you go with ford/OEM part (f7dz10884aa) or go with after market?
I have seen many of my friends always shun OEM parts and go for the Kmart special. About 50% of the time the kmart 'just doesn't quite work/fit right' and back to the parts store they go. Oil filters and such I feel are the same but some lower sales volume parts I think it might make a difference and be worth the extra $ just to avoid redoing something. I don't want to get into a thread about oem/after mark but my motorcraft (Jcontrols?) battery is the original one from 10 years ago not that it relates to this part at all...

Also does FastPN have any coupon codes for shipping or discounts for this forum?

Dear 98RE> I use after market parts from O'Riellys auto parts store in evansville Indiana. I have used other aftermarket parts for other vehicles with good results. You may want to follow your own inclinations for the source of your part for peace of mind, however, if cost is a factor you may want to use aftermarket. I have no knowledge of fastpn so I can't help there. good luck and have a great day

 

[98REDrang]

thanks for the info!
I went with the part from FastPartN, but your right its just a simple thermocouple I'm sure any brand would work. the swap out was easy but I was only able to hand tighten the part since the connector water outlet was angled to block my socket (thanks ford). I ran the truck for a while but it seems the gage is doing the same thing. it will rise slightly but then drop back below the range mark. I did 'gig' the start a few times, eventually the gage went into the normal range. This has me thinking its the wiring. I will check the old part to see if its with spec range (should have done that first)...

 

[autorainstatic]

that's crazy cause my temp gage is messed up as well. the check gage light goes on and off, and sense i have had the vehicle i've never seen it move in the slightest. anyone know of a step by step procedure to it?

 

[BrooklynBay]

This part is known as a thermistor or a temperature controlled resistor. A thermocouple generates a voltage, so it's considered an active part. A thermistor is a passive part because it impedes the flow of voltage across it. You could easily test the gauge by grounding the wire to see if the gauge goes to the hot region. High resistance or a blown sensor would keep it in the cold region on the gauge.

 

[toypaseo]

98REDrang, does your cooling system need burped...?

 

[98REDrang]

I checked the old sensor and it reads a high resistance at very cold and a real low resistance at hot, which I believe is the way its suppose to work. however at room them it reads 3.5 KO, which I am surprised its that high. I did not check the new part before I put it in. Grounding the harness the gage does go way past hot. I will try burping the system when I change the thermo but coolant came out the sensor port when I unscrewed the sensor. I don't think an air pocket could be stuck at the senor port while the engine is running? After a 50 mile trip the gage still reads on the low mark. however as before, after I stop the engine and gig the power a few times the gage finally responses into the mid range. I guess I will check the thermostat next...
it is stuck open...so replaced it shall be

 

[98REDrang]

Anybody know if the OEM part is made by stant or if those premium/super thermostat are any better?:thumbdwn:
why spend 25 when 5 will do
I'm inclined to stick with OEM for the simple fact that for 8-9 years I did not have to replace anything on my truck (other than PM) and it has a bypass ball and the aftermarket ones don't. so far this year (9 going on 10) I'm on a new IAC/temp sensor/heatervalve/VB+TQcvtr/brakes and now thermostat
I guess when things start to go they start to go (@110k)

I could be also be jaded by all the marketing spin I see such as "rustproof aluminum" and "high strength steel w/graphite". Only iron alloys can rust (FexOy) and steel w/graphite is call cast iron.
Of course I have also torn apart some 'economy' parts and found them be made very poorly with inferior materials...

 

[98REDrang]

p0153 thermostat

98 xlt 4.0 4x4:
Well last weekend I changed the thermostat and everything seemed fine Tuesday when I drove 100miles . today my wife drove the truck and put some fuel in and now I'm getting the MIL code P0153. Is this just bad timing or did I mess up the thermostat install (don't know how, no leaks) I'm not sure how the thermostat and an O2 sensor could be related. I understand the o2 sensor could be poisoned but im not sure how the coolant would have made it to the exhaust. could I have spill some coolant on it? could I have messed up something when I move the intake hose. or should I just jump in and test/change the sensor.

drove to work today and light went off after 5 miles...maybe wife did not screw gas cap on correct...would that bring up this code?