Temp gauge PROBLEM

[donalds]

Ok
My temp gauge pegs after a few mins of driving check gauge light comes on
I checked the ecu temp gauge with my scanner 192 driving or not
Fans working fine
It seems to not be overheating
If I unplug the sender it drops to zero
I'm thinking I need a sender
I want to be sure I'm not missing something thanks in advance

 

[C420sailor]

Is it one of the years with the single or dual sensor? Some years had a single combined sensor, others had two—one for the PCM, one for the gauge.

 

[donalds]

It's a 2 sensor model the
Ecu sensor is working good according to my sct

 

[donalds]

Also I have to tell y'all it's the cheep sensor from the austekk metal thermostat housing
The ecu. Sensor it a motorcraft
I just bumped the thread on accident sorry dam kindle

 

[RickOTR]

Sounds like the sensor to me as it was acting normal before you installed the Austekk. When it comes to electrical parts, I always favor Motorcraft.

 

[donalds]

Sounds like the sensor to me as it was acting normal before you installed the Austekk. When it comes to electrical parts, I always favor Motorcraft.

Oh yea I'm gonna put in a motorcraft unit for SURE these. Sensors came with the housing I installed a while ago so it worked for a while anyways I didn't trust the ecu sensor so I put in a motorcraft unit gusts I should have replaced both
I just want to be sure I didn't miss anything

 

[J_C]

I don't know for sure, just thinking out loud here... if it's a sensor that only acts as a dummy gauge switch, seems like you could measure resistance to verify it's too low for the engine temp, but if that's all it is, why would it trip a check gauges light?

I saw a wiring diagram for the instrument cluster where it's somehow hooked into the slosh module, but what the heck is a slosh module really doing then? I understand that it averages out the fuel sender gas level signal so the fuel gauge isn't bouncing around, but then why a connection to the coolant temperature gauge?

 

[410Fortune]

but if that's all it is, why would it trip a check gauges light?

Because the truck thinks its overheating so it is giving yo a check gauge warning light

So the sensor right next to it is reading 192 degrees water temp...the coolant gauge on the dash should be right in the middle/low side of normal at this temp...you need a new sensor
You are not missing anything

Do you have your old sensor from the old housing?
Do you have a infrared thermometer?

 

[J_C]

^ But why not let the ECU and the sensor tied into it, handle that like it does other warning indication? Maybe just a transition period where Ford eventually moved in that direction but for this generation it was a legacy setup? Guess it must have been since it still used two sensors instead of one.

 

[donalds]

Do you have a infrared thermometer

Yes

Do you have your old sensor from the old housing

Now that you mention it I do and I just tested it and boom it's the sensor
Thanks for all the replying ......

 

[Mr. Alligator]

@donalds You win.

 

[donalds]

I don't know for sure, just thinking out loud here... if it's a sensor that only acts as a dummy gauge switch, seems like you could measure resistance to verify it's too low for the engine temp, but if that's all it is, why would it trip a check gauges light?

I saw a wiring diagram for the instrument cluster where it's somehow hooked into the slosh module, but what the heck is a slosh module really doing then? I understand that it averages out the fuel sender gas level signal so the fuel gauge isn't bouncing around, but then why a connection to the coolant temperature gauge?

The check gauge light did light up

It's funny both the old and new sender s ohm out at 500-600 at room temp
Weird
I plugged in the old one and sat in on the thermostat housing and it works
Motorcraft sender is in the mail

 

[donalds]

@donalds
TStat GraySensor (clipped or threaded) on 2pinGrayHarnessPlug to ECU, should read ~104kOhm in IceWater, Ohms decrease as temp rises.
TStat BrownSensor (clipped or threaded) on 2pinOrangeHarnessPlug to Gage, should read ~12kOhm in IceWater, Ohms decrease as temp rises.
Factory\Industrial techs know these as "thermocouples": 2 metals welded together with known temp\ohms range.
Recently I've removed clipped GraySensor, plugged that hole,
drilled new hole in front of clipped BrownSensor & installed new threaded GraySensor
for better clearance when changing the left TimingTensioner.
Hope this helps.
View attachment 318652

Thanks!!

Nice job to I like it

 

[donalds]

@donalds
After thought: if the InstrumentCluster gage spikes to high temp & the Brown~Orange TStat sensor tests good,
it's possible you've got a short to ground in the wiring harness somewhere between the sensor & cluster.

According to the wiring diagram if you short to ground the gauge will show full hot
It's a good way to rule out the instrument cluster

 

[donalds]

parts are in

new vs old vs older, DO NOT LOSE THE CLIP!

use a q tip and brake clean to clean the socket

put gray rtv on the o-ring to lube and help seal

be careful installing the clip or you WILL BE BUYING A NEW ONE

 

[donalds]

works

 

[donalds]

Getting curious about your turbocharger; does it make access to the TStat sensors & valve easier or harder?

Supercharger
no I find it's easier now lol

Assuming you've long ago changed out the plastic to an alum tstat house, Austek?

Yea back in 2018 mine was the first install on the forums