Terrible rumble/shake at around 40 mph

[Zoline]

Anyone know where to get rebuild parts on an auto transmission? Still considering going for a manual clutch and saying screw this automatic bull, I need the gas milage anyways this is lucky to get 12 miles from a gallon.

 

[natenkiki2004]

You should get better mileage with a manual, provided you know how to shift them properly. There's rebuild kits, shift improvement kits out there.

The thing about a firm shift on 2nd, mine does that too. It shifts firmer when it's cold. That's a good thing, firm shifts that you can feel in your seat are actually better because there's not slippage. Manufacturers went to make automatic transmissions slip more during shifting because drivers complained, they all want a quiet smooth car. The smoother it is, the more it slips and the harder the clutches work.

 

[Zoline]

You should get better mileage with a manual, provided you know how to shift them properly. There's rebuild kits, shift improvement kits out there.

The thing about a firm shift on 2nd, mine does that too. It shifts firmer when it's cold. That's a good thing, firm shifts that you can feel in your seat are actually better because there's not slippage. Manufacturers went to make automatic transmissions slip more during shifting because drivers complained, they all want a quiet smooth car. The smoother it is, the more it slips and the harder the clutches work.

Interesting... So why does it generally refuse to shift untill the Trans is hot enough. Good to know though

 

[natenkiki2004]

Interesting... So why does it generally refuse to shift untill the Trans is hot enough. Good to know though

That, I couldn't answer. Maybe the governor is sticking? That happened on mine and is a common issue. I either had to let the engine idle a few minutes to bring up the trans temp or rev the snot out of it to get it to shift from 1st to 2nd when cold. I outlined all of that in my transmission filter thread, found in my signature.

 

[Zoline]

That, I couldn't answer. Maybe the governor is sticking? That happened on mine and is a common issue. I either had to let the engine idle a few minutes to bring up the trans temp or rev the snot out of it to get it to shift from 1st to 2nd when cold. I outlined all of that in my transmission filter thread, found in my signature.

Lol the governor, the torque converter, the transmission clutch, the electric windows, the interior, it's all dying, I think I have a chassis, 5 wheels, and an engine left hahahaha, so i will read up on that signiture link, and I'm going to research manual transmissions some more, I think I'd prefer it especially because I do end up towing things and that can be pretty hard I hear on these automatic transmissions.

 

[malohnes]

The vibration sounds like a u-joint to me. It sounds very much like what I went through right up until my joint blew at the diff end a couple years ago. I was luck and didn't damage the shaft, yoke or undercarriage. Its a simple job and the parts are inexpensive.

 

[natenkiki2004]

With an automatic trans that's been rebuilt, towing is fine as long as you keep it in D. The clutches in the trans hold great, it's the hard parts that were made poorly and they often grenade under stress. Torque and heat kill a factory A4LD. That's towing in OD, offroading in high gear, hard accelerations from a standstill, wrong gearing with large tires. I would argue that an automatic trans is better for towing due to the torque converter, it helps spool up power to pull a heavy load. Fuel economy will go down, heat will go up but properly maintained, it should perform good.

There's likely not a ton wrong with your trans, just one thing but you gotta figure out what it is. Start simple and work from there. Flush the fluid and do a filter change, see what's in the pan. If the auto trans is more work than you'd like to put in then see about swapping a manual. Just consider the options, what's available and remember to start small

 

[92exp4x4]

Lol the governor, the torque converter, the transmission clutch, the electric windows, the interior, it's all dying, I think I have a chassis, 5 wheels, and an engine left hahahaha, so i will read up on that signiture link, and I'm going to research manual transmissions some more, I think I'd prefer it especially because I do end up towing things and that can be pretty hard I hear on these automatic transmissions.

It not a bad job to convert to a manual. The best is when you have a whole donor truck. You will need:

Transmission (M5OD-R1), shifter, boot, trans harness, clutch and brake pedal, master cylinder and line, PCM for manual trans w/ non-EGR engine ( you can get around this by wiring in resistors to the auto shift solenoid circuits), clutch, flywheel, and slave cylinder. The harness must be from a 91-92, as they changed in 93, (I see yours is a 92) You can use one from a ranger with the mazda trans and 4.0. The bellhousing bolt pattern is unique to the 4.0L engine. 2.3L 3.0L transmissions will NOT work. A trans from a 2.9L will work but two bolts will not line up. Most 2.9L B2s and rangers had a Mitsubishi trans in them, keep that in mind while yard hunting.

I hope this helps. I have done this swap into my 94 Eddie. This is how I found out the harness is different. You can take it apart to make it how you need to, but its easy to get lost if you don't have the EVTMs. If I can find mine I will scan and post that info.

 

[malohnes]

I would argue that an automatic trans is better for towing due to the torque converter, it helps spool up power to pull a heavy load. Fuel economy will go down, heat will go up but properly maintained, it should perform good.

I agree and would further add that an auto tranny is smoother and more comfortable ont he road for most driving conditions. A manual tranny gives more direct power and feel especially if not very good at operating clutch and gear shifts.

 

[92exp4x4]

I forgot also for your year, the cam is different. More for driving feel than anything else... If you want to be totally correct. Reading malohnes' post reminded me.

 

[2stroke]

I'm going to disagree on the manual vs auto in this situation. In the case of a V8 which often makes power higher in the RPM range (although it makes not difference with a big enough engine) an auto is often better. They are rated for towing more load, and as stated, they help get RPM up quicker. On these V6's, that is not an advantage. I've towed heavy loads with both the A4LD and M5od (as well as the 5 speed auto in the 2nd gen). I prefer the manual for towing myself as I can keep the engine in the power band. My biggest problem is you only get about 3/4 throttle with an auto before downshift. On steep hill I absolutely do not want a downshift to 4000 rpm's. In fact these engines make less power at those higher rpm ranges. Strength wise, the A4LD is rated higher than the M5od, but my experience shows that both last just fine with regular fluid changes.

 

[Zoline]

So I tried putting it in low gear, the little light doesn't turn on, and I'm not sure if it is actually turning on, could my button be broken too or my indicator light?

I find that at those higher speeds and I experience it trying to growl I can out it into overdrive and the effect completely stops.

Is it OK to start using overdrive at 40ish mph?

 

[natenkiki2004]

Good points on the powerband 2stroke. For experienced manual drivers, that is a better option in hilly terrain.

As far as low range, you have to be in neutral with your foot on the brake (stopped) before it will go in. You also have to put it in 4x4 first. If it goes into 4x4, it should go into low range.