The 4.0 Swap was chump change compared to this - Look inside... | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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The 4.0 Swap was chump change compared to this - Look inside...

yeah well we have all types of 4x4 guys running around here too,and most are cool as hell but that dude spent 60k on a jeep so he could get chicks, had his beadlocks painted the same as his jeep bk it just don't look right if they match his wheels instead. WHO CARES!!!!!

on a way different note i just found out you can make a doubler with a 1350 which i just pulled out of my BII and a 1354 which im going to put in my BII. that is happening immediately after the 4.0 is running. and i have access to a lathe and welder to do it, here is the link to the article i found http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/spring07/BW1350_1354_doubler.htm
 



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Just went out and ground the cross member mount off one side of the BII, there are 2 mounting holes that are just under 2" back from my existing holes, coincidentally that i believe is the distance my trans was sitting to far forward. Even so I'm going to carry on with my plan of bolting the trans and tcase up to the engine, getting everything in place without the c-member and then welding the mounts on. Just now I'm thinking that those holes are going to be where it ends up being.
 






Just went out and ground the cross member mount off one side of the BII, there are 2 mounting holes that are just under 2" back from my existing holes, coincidentally that i believe is the distance my trans was sitting to far forward. Even so I'm going to carry on with my plan of bolting the trans and tcase up to the engine, getting everything in place without the c-member and then welding the mounts on. Just now I'm thinking that those holes are going to be where it ends up being.

Those rear holes are for the A4ld. Which just so happens to be the same holes used with the M5OD.
 






so my suspicions have been confirmed! I guess ill just go pick up some bolts and bolt the mounts in. Thanks snoranger that takes a weight off my mind
 












Pics Please :popcorn:
 












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Here is the BII just about ready to pull the 2.9

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it was ready to come out at this point, everything was disco'ed

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and F U 2.9l, caused me such an enormous headache
 






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prob shoulda done a little more cleaning on that engine before i dropped it in, to late now haha

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and there it is sitting in the engine bay, had no trans or tcase at that point, i put them in from underneath bk i didn't know about the stupid moving the trans cmember back, lame
 






ran into a snag, i have all the wiring hooked up except i cant find a wire that only powers on the start position of the keyswitch. the headlights and all that still work, but i can't get it to turn the engine over when i turn the key to start, all the wires i tested are constant power on the on position. any ideas guys?
 






so i got it to turn over, and it has spark, but i don't have power to the fp relay in the power distribution box, im sure everything is hooked up properly, but no power for some reason. the EEC relay also has power to it, and my understanding is that it powers the fp relay and also the AC relay, so im stuck, unless im missing a ground somewhere.
 






so i got it to turn over, and it has spark, but i don't have power to the fp relay in the power distribution box, im sure everything is hooked up properly, but no power for some reason. the EEC relay also has power to it, and my understanding is that it powers the fp relay and also the AC relay, so im stuck, unless im missing a ground somewhere.

Nothing like electrical Gremlin's to mess up a day :frustrate
This is not the answer that you want, but can u take a V meter and do some reverse engineering and find where the power picks up again :dunno:
You can check to see if in fact your getting voltage out of a relay if it's energized. Or if your getting any voltage to it at all when an appropriate switch is on.
And an extra grounding strap from engine to frame won't hurt also.

I know on my 84 all the main power for dash, wipers and about everything else came from the end of the headlight wiring harness.
 






Does anyone know if the ignition control module on the 93 4.0 needs to ground to the body? I know the tfi on my bII does through the distributor, but im wondering if it wont start bk the module isn't grounded
 






Pin #4 on the module is a ground wire from the computer. The EVTM doesnt show a case ground for the module.

IIRC, when I was chasing an ign problem, I had the module just hanging by the wires and the truck still ran. It wasnt grounded.
 






I've got a plug in the harness that I believe runs to the starter relay, it will pug into 2 places, one plug goes directley into the power distro box, the other is connected directley to the neg battery terminal, if I put it into the ground on the battery I have spark but no power to the fp relay, if I plug it into the power distro box it gives me 6v at the fp relay but no spark, wtf
 






Im at work now, ut I think when I get home im going to ground that plug to the battery and then run power to the plug that runs into the distro box to the switched side of the starter solenoid, maybe that will work
 






yeah im dumb, the mystery wire was for the blower motor on the explorer that im not going to be using, I ended up taking the power wire for the distro box over to the battery side of the starter relay (solenoid) and immediately I heard the fp prime, turned the key and it fired right up. so Jon's tip of the day for 4.0 swaps is label all the connectors you take out of the donor vehicle so your not second guessing yourself all day. 3 days of frustration and no one to blame but myself.

but i did cut all the abs and headlight wiring out of the old harnes, that left me 3 wires out of 25 on the front part of the harness lmao, i finished up cleaning the engine bay and put the hood back on, reinstalled the exhaust, and measured for my rear driveshaft. I was going to bleed the clutch but when I poured fluid in it leaked, not sure if my master cylinder is bad or if i forgot an O ring, by then i was done for the night so ill start fresh tonight and see if i can get it bled, then i can go for the maiden voyage.

the 4.0 has either been sitting forever or is worn out bk it smokes pretty good, guess next year at tax time ill pull it and rebuild, maybe I can sneak some aftermarket goodies in under the wifes radar lmao, but for now it runs and better than the 2.9l so im happy
 






didn't get much accomplished at all, i pulled the carpet out th rest of the way and started welding the holes in my floorup, had on on each side right in front of the front seat bolt hole, I got the driver side all welded up and painted it with some flat black Krylon, looks pretty darn good if i say so myself. ill post up some pics when i start back to work on the master cylinder
 






just took the maiden voyage in the old BII, drove it down to a church about a mile from my house and the wife drove back, this thing is a whole different animal with the 4.0 in it, not like rocketship fast but it moves, the wife burned out going out of the parking lot on accident haha.
I had to bleed the clutch which i had heard was kind of a biotch, I unbolted it from the firewall and pulled it totally out into the engine bay so that it didn't have a high spot above the reservoir line and opened the valve on the slave, just poured fluid in as it ran down, a lot of bubbles came out so i closed the valve and checked it, couldn't push it in by hand at all so I bolted it up and it works good.
Now i need to measure for the rear driveshaft, i think im going to go to my dads house and throw it on the lathe, cut the weld off and pull the end out, then i can cut the appropriate length off and weld it back up, prob won't be perfect but it should get me by in an offroaded that will prob dent the shaft anyway haha.
 



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Impressed with your progress. Make sure when you cut the welds and shorten the DS that you clock the end the same position it was in regards to the other end.
 






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