The compressor clutch doesn't turn on in my 95 Explorer.

[dj8806]

ok i have a 95 explorer sohc v6 with some ac problems i have checked the fuse an tried to jump the low pressure side an charge but when i jumped it the ac clutch still did not turn on, so whats next in diagnosing this problem?

thanks,

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've renamed your thread, and moved it into the A/C & heater section. Did you check the fuses & relays?

 

[scrappy983]

Same Problem

I see that this thread hasn't moved for about a month so I just decided to jump on. I recently bought a 95 Explorer XLT for my daughter's first car ($600 at the local auction). I can't get the clutch to engage without jumping it straight to the battery. I haven't been able to charge it yet, but I did jump the low pressure switch and still nothing. I'm not real sure what else I need to check. #18 fuse is good. I swapped every relay(because I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere.. Chilton's only shows some semi-basics).Not sure if it matters, but I'm getting 3.6 ohms across the leads on the compressor. I've been starring at this for a few days now and probably over looking something obvious. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll be on all night if there;s any questions. Thanks in advance to all posters

 

[scucci]

I see that this thread hasn't moved for about a month so I just decided to jump on. I recently bought a 95 Explorer XLT for my daughter's first car ($600 at the local auction). I can't get the clutch to engage without jumping it straight to the battery. I haven't been able to charge it yet, but I did jump the low pressure switch and still nothing. I'm not real sure what else I need to check. #18 fuse is good. I swapped every relay(because I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere.. Chilton's only shows some semi-basics).Not sure if it matters, but I'm getting 3.6 ohms across the leads on the compressor. I've been starring at this for a few days now and probably over looking something obvious. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll be on all night if there;s any questions. Thanks in advance to all posters

1995 Explorer A/C wiring schematic - manual system.
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/for...g-systems/740-ford-ac-charts-information.html

 

[scrappy983]

Ok, getting a little desperate. Here's my latest attempt. I started the truck with the power disconnected from the clutch ( the two wire connector on top , I think) Thinking I had a broken ground wire, I jumped the low pressure switch, stuck a jumper into the striped wire from the clutch power connector ( a little color blind ) and a jumper from the ground straight to battery ground.. VWALAH!!! nothing.... This is gonna bother me all night.

 

[scrappy983]

Just refreshed web page... looking at schematics now.. Be right back, thanks scucci

 

[scrappy983]

ok, swapped the 2 diodes just 2 check. No change. Now, with KOEO I have 12v going to pin 85 on the relay, I'm guessing that's just the input power, so I'm getting power into the relay and I've got good continuity between the power connector for the clutch and battery... Still missing something

 

[scrappy983]

ok, starting to look at more mechanical issues now. With "Max AC" engine running, of course, I pressed the clutch with a screw driver. I hear a metal on metal sliding noise. Is everything operating and I have a shim issue? It doesn't engage when I press it in, I just hear the "sssssssssssssss" metal on metal noise. Is it just rubbing on the pulley?

 

[scucci]

If you have 12 volts at the clutch connector you have most likely have excessive clutch gap. Try removing a shim.
Specs:
0.018" to 0.030" new part
0.013" to 0.025" used part

 

[scrappy983]

Ok, back at it. Had a few hectic days at work. For some reason the Navy doesn't understand I have other business to deal with So I just finished running the truck on max AC, jumped the clutch directly to the battery and it engaged and began cooling. Didn't want to test to long since I'm not sure how charged the system is. Here's the electrical saga again...
Metered between connector and battery. I've got 12 volts on both connectors. Does this mean a bad diode? Not on the Power Dist. Box, but the installed one on the wire. I wasn't thinking about the schematic when I said I swapped them. I didn't know there was a diode even on the line until I removed the loom. Do these go bad?

 

[scucci]

If you look at the schematic, you'll see that the diode is wired across the clutch coil. The anode of the diode(positive terminal) is connected to ground and the cathode(negative terminal) is wired to hot. The diode shunts the large reverse emf that is developed across the clutch coil when it is energized/deenergized safely to ground. If the diode opens, bad things can happen to the sensitive electronics. If the diode shorts it will normally blow a fuse. Check it with an ohmeter or diode test function of a multimeter.
Make sure the clutch gound is good. Try swapping the relay.

 

[scrappy983]

fED UP, TRIED EVERYTHING. Replacing the inline diode 1N4003. . Be right back

 

[scrappy983]

Ok, the diode was a quick and useless replacement. Just had to try it. So when I started 'er up to test out my diode, the check engine light came on... Yet again. So I pulled the codes and now I've got a 214 code. This issue just went from AC to one of the positioning sensors I'm guessing. Well, I'm done with this issue for a while. Thanks for everyone's help

 

[scrappy983]

Ok, now I have, what I think, is a really good identifier of my problem. While the truck is running and everything plugged in on the A/C, the relay is clicking about every 2 seconds. Switching about 2 or 3 positions. While it is switching, the engine RPM is raising about 3 or 4 hundred and then back down? Any thoughts

 

[scrappy983]

any ideas? bud light is helping me, but no help yet