Thinking about an SAS few ?'s.

[STEVE-O]

go buy a custom axle. easiest way to make it 5 on 4.5. Just have to suck it up and buy new wheels. The question is do you go 5 on 5.5 or 6 on 5.5? One you convert the front and the rear gets spacers or the waggy axle stays the same and you buy new rear shafts with 6 on 5.5.

Hmmm Im gonna go with the custom axles I think. Of course that leaves me with the question of what do I do for brake rotors? Someone said that they could be drilled, but that seems like it could be unsafe. Do you know of a company that makes the axles? Thanks for all the help!

 

[IZwack]

You need to read the other SAS projects on the forum - they cover these and many, many more questions you will face in the near future. Including resources such as axle shafts and such.

 

[RockRanger]

currie can make you one. It really is pointless though. If you are so set on keeping your rims use a dana 30 out of a jeep. It would be pretty close to the same thing as a dana 44 with 5 on 4.5 outers on. Lets not forget the hubs you ould have to use. They are the same as the TTB hubs that like to break. Are your rims made of gold and is that why you want to keep them?

 

[STEVE-O]

currie can make you one. It really is pointless though. If you are so set on keeping your rims use a dana 30 out of a jeep. It would be pretty close to the same thing as a dana 44 with 5 on 4.5 outers on. Lets not forget the hubs you ould have to use. They are the same as the TTB hubs that like to break. Are your rims made of gold and is that why you want to keep them?

No, Im just on a budget, need a project for school, and dont have much in the way of time. And by budget I mean I havent had a job in 7 months, and Im not sure that my dad wants to buy me new wheels too. He said he would pay for most of it, but I think asking him to buy me new wheels would be pushing it. But whatever.


Edit: And maybe I should use a dana 30 out of a jeep. I only have 33s. It's not like im gonna be running 38s and going offroading 3 times a week.

 

[RockRanger]

Budget and custom axle dont go together. Eather to a jeep dana 30 or if you do a 44 get new rims. You cant redrill a dana 44 toer to 5 on 5.5 the hub is to big to let the smaller centerhole to pass over it.

How much do you plan on spending on this swap? If you arn't planning 4 digets and the first number being crooked then you are grossly underestemating the cost of the swap.

 

[STEVE-O]

Budget and custom axle dont go together. Eather to a jeep dana 30 or if you do a 44 get new rims. You cant redrill a dana 44 toer to 5 on 5.5 the hub is to big to let the smaller centerhole to pass over it.

How much do you plan on spending on this swap? If you arn't planning 4 digets and the first number being crooked then you are grossly underestemating the cost of the swap.

Im not sure what hes willing to spend, the only parts I will actually need to buy are things like the axle, springs for the front, the rear leaf springs, the steering setup that I go with, and probably new brakes all around. Also Ill end up regearing the new axle, and also replacing any wearable parts on it that it needs. All the things that need to be fabbed will be free. I can also lengthen/shorten driveshafts for free as well. So whatever that ends up costing is what Ill be spending I guess. From what I can see, dana 30s are alot more readily available than d-44s from waggys anyway. You think I should go with a jeep d-30 for now? It seems more logical to me at least now that you pointed these things out.

 

['97 V8]

i think a dana 30 would be your best bet budget wise. I used to think a sas wouldnt cost me more than 1000 bucks. Now bieng a more knowladgable ****roach, i can say at 2500 dollars will go into my sas.

 

[everythintech]

i agree with 2500. I plan on maybe a lil more, but my project is a lil ways away.

 

['97 V8]

EDIT: At least 2500.

 

[STEVE-O]

[QUOTE='97 V8]EDIT: At least 2500.[/QUOTE]


Hmm shouldnt cost me that much. Im thinking about 1100ish in parts, depending on how much the axle cost, and what needs replaced. All metal work/fabbing/metal itself is free. The 1100 is basing the d-30 being around $400. Oh add shocks to that final price too. Meh thats about what I thought it was going to cost.

 

['97 V8]

Tires, gears, lockers, steering box, linkages, springs tires. And then you must add at least 500 to the total. Im not trying to say"no damnit its going to cost more" but what im trying to say is make sure you have all the bases covered on all the parts and cost. I sure would as hell be pissed if i was 3/4's done with my sas and then found out, sh*t im out of green.

 

[RockRanger]

steering box? steering linkage? fliuds? all that stuff adds up. Not to be a jerk but it doesnt sound like you know enough to be starting a SAS in a few weeks. I like you thought I could do the SAS for about $1000. I probably could have if I did a half ass job. Here is how the money goes. You buy an axle for a $200. Then you get the gears and bearings for it so thats another $200. But why would I put stock gears in the front axle when I am running bigger tires so I might as well get deeper gears for the rear so thats another $200 Then you relize that you are using a junk yard axle and while you have it out you might as well put new wheel bearings ball joints seals roters and calipers on it cause the old stuff is unknown shape and you dont want problems later. So there goes another $300. while you are add it You might as well put new brakes on the rear axle cause after all everything is appart and its eas to do now $100. you need to add a steering box so there goes another $100 while installing that and relizing PS hoses are PIA to change later you decideto put new ones on then so there goes another $50. Then you have to get your brake lines figured out. That ends up costing you another $100 Now you need springs shocks so there is atleast another $100. So you got all that you still need steering. So 4 tres are another $150.

There is $1500 and that doesnt count tires lockers drive shafts ujoints spring perches shock mounts nuts bolts tabs and a bunch of other details you dont catch till you are in the swap . Do it right the first time so you dont end up being that guy on a trail run with the brokedown POS that could have been taken care of with a bit of thought in advance. Mine cost me $2500 with no rear locker and used wheels and tires.

 

[STEVE-O]

steering box? steering linkage? fliuds? all that stuff adds up. Not to be a jerk but it doesnt sound like you know enough to be starting a SAS in a few weeks. I like you thought I could do the SAS for about $1000. I probably could have if I did a half ass job. Here is how the money goes. You buy an axle for a $200. Then you get the gears and bearings for it so thats another $200. But why would I put stock gears in the front axle when I am running bigger tires so I might as well get deeper gears for the rear so thats another $200 Then you relize that you are using a junk yard axle and while you have it out you might as well put new wheel bearings ball joints seals roters and calipers on it cause the old stuff is unknown shape and you dont want problems later. So there goes another $300. while you are add it You might as well put new brakes on the rear axle cause after all everything is appart and its eas to do now $100. you need to add a steering box so there goes another $100 while installing that and relizing PS hoses are PIA to change later you decideto put new ones on then so there goes another $50. Then you have to get your brake lines figured out. That ends up costing you another $100 Now you need springs shocks so there is atleast another $100. So you got all that you still need steering. So 4 tres are another $150.

There is $1500 and that doesnt count tires lockers drive shafts ujoints spring perches shock mounts nuts bolts tabs and a bunch of other details you dont catch till you are in the swap . Do it right the first time so you dont end up being that guy on a trail run with the brokedown POS that could have been taken care of with a bit of thought in advance. Mine cost me $2500 with no rear locker and used wheels and tires.

If I do a dana-30, I already got the wheels, and I have brand new BFG AT 33s that are like 3 weeks old. And for what I was quoting in my post it includes pretty much everything you said. I dont plan on redearing the rear as I have 4:10s and 33s which is fine for me for now. I was planning on all the bearings, rotors and calipers, and ball joints. Rear has brand new brakes on it less than 4 months old. Steering box and lines I already knew about, along with brake lines. And lastly shocks, which I mentioned already above.

In the second part of your post, the only think I see costing any money is U-joints, and nuts and bolts. Everything else will be free. Telling me I don't know enough. Im asking questions about this so I get some direct answers, instead of basing my info off of someone elses swap, which is similar yes, but never quite the same.

 

[redranger4.0]

Stuff adds up fast, im upto like 3k for my swap and i dont even have the little **** yet. Granted I bought and built a rear 9" which your not doing, but trust me theres always **** that i didnt think about that are going to add up fast

 

[STEVE-O]

Stuff adds up fast, im upto like 3k for my swap and i dont even have the little **** yet. Granted I bought and built a rear 9" which your not doing, but trust me theres always **** that i didnt think about that are going to add up fast

Yea, I know there will be little things that add up, but you got alot of stuff that I wont be running. But it seems all of this is void now anyway. My dad wants me to work on my mustang instead, and keep the ranger more of a daily driver. It sucks that I have to listen to him, but he funds the projects so I do as he says. Oh well, thanks to everyone that has helped me get this far, and have been patient with me. God this sucks, its crushing. Maybe after I graduate in a few months and I buy myself a daily driver, Ill be resurecting this thread. Thanks again and Im sorry for all the trouble I might have given any of you.