Thinking My 2000 Security Module is not receiving signal from FOBs

[3xowner]

Needing proper advice over diagnosing the Remote/Security/FOB system on a 2000 EB Edition. a few months ago, my FOBs stopped working, lock/unlock the doors. On both, I used a new battery and made sure the connect points were snug. One FOB had been unused for most of its life and last time tried, worked. Still nothing. I would believe they are sending out a proper signal, especially the one that unused for years. The Security feature is still sensing and occasionally beeps when I may open the door while in theft alarm mode. I will say, being 23 years old now, that some doors are out of sync as far as whatever sensor they may have but all doors physically lock. The door keypad still is functional and it will go into/out of theft mode. So how can I further diagnose the security module/ receiving signal, etc? if the module is bad, is it something that I can swap out with a junk yard part and try to reprogram/authenticate my FOBs on my own? I would imagine that the module would need reprogrammed of course, but can I do it or only a dealership? Or can I swap out say an internal part that receives the signal? Or do I need a OBD connection to access more into the security/remote module? I have 3 coded ignition keys, and 2 fobs. Please only if you know or have worked through issues on yours over these systems, comment. Thanks in advance.

 

[yeahokay]

Im just pushing this back up, I have the same problem that I have not been able to figure out yet. Im at the pull it out and see about a replacement step but I dont know if it is plug and play or what.

 

[3xowner]

Im just pushing this back up, I have the same problem that I have not been able to figure out yet. Im at the pull it out and see about a replacement step but I dont know if it is plug and play or what.

From what I read it is a swap in, reprogram just the fobs for the RAD module (left rear wheel well). The part number or version needs to be the same I take it. Key pad will be the newer code. its the PATS module that needs reprogammed for the keys, by dealer I take it.

 

[J_C]

Can you elaborate on this statement:

I will say, being 23 years old now, that some doors are out of sync as far as whatever sensor they may have but all doors physically lock.

The only sensor the doors have is the latch switch. If the latch switch isn't working, fix that first. It is worth noting that a very common issue with these vehicles is that the wires in the door hinge boot, fray apart to an open or short circuit state.

The part # needs to be nearly the same. Ford updates part #s and there is some cross compatibility between different model years.

Yes the keypad will be the newer code, make sure you get a code with it which is on a sticker on it or a card that came with the paper documentation from the factory. You simply program in the fobs, directions are in the owner's manual.

 

[3xowner]

So an update... my fobs are both actually working... took me awhile to figure that out. I took one into a local keysmith and they were able to test the 3 buttons to a signal analyzer. The panic button worked but the lock/unlock buttons did not. I came back home and took both apart. Both easily worked for the panic button... I guess I had not truly tested that button as it is so loud and cumbersome to stop it. Anyway, I believe I see what the root issue is... just grime, dirt, moisture building up along to 2 mainly used buttons. When I had both apart, just the circuit board to each battery, both worked well. So I cleaned up the circuit buttons, will spray the board with electrical contact cleaner in a few days (cleaner is at another location) and I anticipate all will be back to normal.

 

[J_C]

Oops, didn't mention that. Yeah, anything with a silicone rubber button sheet, eventually starts to break down and the silicone oil comes out of it and needs cleaned off. If you're lucky the rubber doesn't fall apart as a result.

However, electrical contact cleaner often doesn't cut through silicone oil. VERY hot, strong detergent solution can help, but usually I find the best option is just the slight abrasion of a dry paper towel or cotton swab, unless the silicone residue has gotten thick and sticky.

 

[3xowner]

Oops, didn't mention that. Yeah, anything with a silicone rubber button sheet, eventually starts to break down and the silicone oil comes out of it and needs cleaned off. If you're lucky the rubber doesn't fall apart as a result.

However, electrical contact cleaner often doesn't cut through silicone oil. VERY hot, strong detergent solution can help, but usually I find the best option is just the slight abrasion of a dry paper towel or cotton swab, unless the silicone residue has gotten thick and sticky.

Brake cleaner then on the circuit board' s buttons?

 

[J_C]

No need for anything as harsh as brake cleaner, a dry paper towel on the PCB will work, and on the silicone keypad sheet, hot, strong detergent solution and a toothbrush.

 

[3xowner]

Well I cleaned the fobs up, inside and out. And one of two recovered to a decent point. When taking apart, yes, as some had mentioned, that inside the oil from the pad beaded up and took some cleaning with a qtip and cloth to clear it out. I did use qc contact clearer spray on the lock/unlock buttons over a few applications. The 2 buttons really have lost the true press down, rebound action that the panic button still has. Well since the are old and only one still has the Keychain look in ok condition, I will then just Simply hold off on buying 2 new ones until the fail again. But it was a good exercise to see what was the root of the issue.

 

[J_C]

^ Yeah I was thinking these had the switch contacts as carbon or gold plated traces on the PCB, then a carbon film on the back of the silicone keys as that is how many such switches are set up, but I took mine apart to check and it turns out, it does have mechanical microswitches behind the rubber button sheet. There's a little metal spring-plate in those and once it gets weak, they don't have the same solid action and eventually stop working.

You can measure and buy replacement switches at an electronics supplier like digikey, solder those in, but probably not worth the bother when you can get the whole fob around $10 on amazon or ebay... and by now, the fobs I used regularly are pretty beat up. Casing scratches I can live with but the keyring hole is about worn through too.