Tie Rod End How To's? (warning a bit long)

[RhainyC]

My truck is a '91 Ranger XLT 4WD, 4.0L/5Spd...

Well my truck got wrecked a couple of weeks ago, thankfully no one was hurt...unless you count hubby's pride. He's only driven her about half a dozen times since I got her a year ago...

Anyways, the truck is financed, so we can't let the insurance take care of the repair costs, due to her being a '91, her *industry value* will be less than what the repairs, through a shop would be, so, we have to do it ourselves.

Now, one note here, hubby is really good at following directions, and if he takes stuff apart he can usually put it back together. I can't help a lot due to spinal arthritis...so, he and my son, and my kid brother (who is a fair mechanic when sober ) are going to do the repairs.

I took the truck into the shop reccommended by my mechanic, who doesn't do such extensive work sadly. They said the Right side (is this the passenger side?) inner tie rod, and connecting rod need to be replaced, the steering gear box needs replacing as it is leaking and also that the shocks had to be replaced. Now, they also said that they would have to install Caster/Camber bearings in order to do the alignment, grand total for the work about $800.00.

Needless to say it's Christmas and I don't have that much money...so now comes the question after the long explanitory post...

How hard is it to do this work, and are there other things we should replace while we have the thing up in the air? Oh and are there things to watch out for that may be more of a problem than they first appear or that need special tools?

Thanks much in advance...see I warned ya I chatted a lot!

 

[Iron-Mike]

I just did inner and outer tie rods, shocks and upper & lower ball joints. Cost me over $1k to do it all not including the cost of parts so I fel your pain. I had it done yesterday

It felt like my wallet was bleeding LOL


Seriously though, I'd suggest checking ball joints (upper and lower) while you're under there. Especially since you're doing tie rods anyway. Another reason I say that is because in order to mount the camber adjusters you'd be disconnecting the upper control arm and ball joint assembly to slip the adjuster on

If they are ok and don't require replacement you may want to consider greasing them while you have easy access to them


Best of luck

 

[Tbars4]

...the steering parts will cost a couple hundred...the alignment will cost about 150-200 with the bushings, labor and material...to get an idea of exact parts cost follow this link and sign in...it's free and when you put the info in for your vehicle, you can find the parts you need easily with the cost... http://autozone.com
...now the steering rack is pretty easy and i believe you have to buy each piece for your year seperately...you could/should, also look up the ball joints too...i think they are 65 bucks a piece, 2 for each side but please verify first...they are more difficult and if you do a search on here there is a how to on doing them...
...i hope this helps till someone else chimes in, good luck...

 

[RhainyC]

Iron-Mike and tbars4, thanks!

I know the ball joints are fine per the guy who inspected them, he was actually surprised but said they looked great. But yes we will grease them while the front ends parts is apart. They shop my mechanic reccommended quoted me a total of approx $800.00 US for the whole shebang, not including any core charges. That was steering gear box, inner tie-rod end, connecting rod, two shocks and alignment, with the caster/camber bearings and install being another $120.00

As mentioned I simply do not have the money to have a shop do the work.

A friend reccommended LMCtrucks.com for parts, as they specialize in trucks, but I was also going to check local prices and local wrecking yards for a good steering gear box as well, mechanic said to find a truck that had the back wrecked...

Anyways, thanks for the input, all suggestions and ideas are always appreciated by this old gal.

Mike, in all seriousness, I am SOOO Sorry you had to spend so much...I simply cannot...especially this time of year, having a kid. *Sighs*

 

[Iron-Mike]

you may be able to find that steering gear box cheap at http://www.rockauto.com or http://www.directfordparts.com just in case the local salvage yard doesn't produce a useable specimen

be thankful the ball joints weren't damaged since in most front end collisions its easy to need new control arms and ball joints.

I found out when doing my ball joints that Ford in all its wisdom made the upper ball joints a "non-serviceable unit". Meaning I can have grease added to my lower ball joints but NOT my uppers. Since I had to replace upper and lower I bought ones that had grease fittings on both.

The mechanic that did all my work is blue oval certified and has his own shop. So I know the job was done right... but I got what I paid for. I have another mechanic that could have done it for a fraction of the cost but it would have been a matter of working around his schedule, and even then he would have been BS'ing around all day with the truck and talking on the phone instead of doing what I asked. The price was a little high, but I'm happy with the quality of the work and he had me done in about 4 hours flat.

http://www.partsamerica.com has really decent prices for tie rod ends so you may want to check there too...

Mike

 

[RhainyC]

:biggthumpMike,

Thanks for the suggestions...yes I am glad the ball joints are good, I know what a PITA they can be to change. I will check PartsAmerica as well.

I have two mechanics I trust...one who does the basic stuff, and I have used him for years...he can take a while, only because he also has a contract to do the local PD units. The other is a great guy but, I don't use him as often, his shop rates are much higher, and he only does more major stuff...so one for the easy stuff, lol, and one for the major motor stuff. Then whoever they reccommend for the *Other* things, as I do trust both of them.

For me after having my ex be a *Shadetree* mechanic and in the parts business all his life, was a big spoiller for anyone else. My present hubby is not really a mechanic for vehicles, but he does a pretty good job when he has enough information/instructions. But, I trust very few people with my rigs, and only then after pulling a few *tests* to see if they will try to mess with me because I am female. *No offense intended to all the awesome mechanics and folks who realize women CAN know WTF is going on under a hood* :biggthump

Thanks again for the sound advice...will keep y'all posted...

 

[94 Crawler]

Front end work is not realy hard and parts are very self explanitory to install. With that said the steering components are the most important part of your vehicle (along with brakes). I am not going to lecture anyone here but I will tell you how i feel, as in the past (I worked as an auto technician for 13 years) i have seen vehicles leave the shop that are to dangerous to drive in the parking lot much less at freeway speeds. I feal if you want to put your life in danger ok but dont kill someone I love in the process. Now that that is out of the way get a shop manual <$20.00 at autozone, invest in good parts (moog or equivelent) follow the manual to the letter, and be prepaired to dolly or trailer the truck to a qualified front end specialist for alignment. Should not charge more than an hour as must will not change the ecentrics if it is close. Very best case you will probably still have at lest 400.00 invested. Please be safe.

 

[RhainyC]

Michael,

THank you for the words of wisdom. Believe me when I say that safety is first priority...I used to drive wrecker and know how just the smallest thing can cause tragedy. That being said, all three of the mechanics who I spoke with, said the truck was safe enough to drive 5 miles back and forth to work, on surface streets.

I plan on getting both a Haynes and a Chilton, both are being ordered the day after Christmas. I also believe in good to best parts, as I know the difference in safety and performance. I do understand the repairs are NOT going to be cheap any way we look at it, but also know that by doing in ourselves, we can save the $65 per hour labour costs from the shop and hopefully get the truck back to *normal* within a MUCH sooner time frame. I can admit to wishing I had a Fairy God Person(s) to help out here... LOL

Thank you for your advice as it is always welcomed, and most often even taken. :wink

 

[94 Crawler]

Hay I understand that. Fortunately I have always worked on and around cars so labor just costs me time.

 

[RangerX]

I took the truck into the shop reccommended by my mechanic, who doesn't do such extensive work sadly. They said the Right side (is this the passenger side?) inner tie rod, and connecting rod need to be replaced, the steering gear box needs replacing as it is leaking and also that the shocks had to be replaced. Now, they also said that they would have to install Caster/Camber bearings in order to do the alignment, grand total for the work about $800.00.

all three of the mechanics who I spoke with, said the truck was safe enough to drive 5 miles back and forth to work, on surface streets.

Hi Rhainy, and welcome to the forum.

As a fellow broke Ranger owner, here's what I would do. First, find the steering linkage off any suitable TTB equipped Ranger/ Explorer in the junkyard. Have your husband install it. I say don't get new camber/caster bearings. If the truck was aligned before, the same bearings should bring it into alignment now. They sit right on the top balljoints, and if the balljoints are fine (undamaged), the bearings are fine, too.

Are the shocks damaged from the wreck, or are the mechanics just saying to replace them because they are old? Same with the steering box. What kind of leak, occaisonal drop, or does all the fluid pour right out? I've had a slight leak in mine for years, and I just top off the fluid when it needs it.

Describe for us the wreck. Did the truck hit a curb, another car? How hard? I figure, if it's driveable on surface streets, it's not very damaged.

 

[RhainyC]

Hi Rhainy, and welcome to the forum.

As a fellow broke Ranger owner, here's what I would do. First, find the steering linkage off any suitable TTB equipped Ranger/ Explorer in the junkyard. Have your husband install it.

They said the inner tie rod ends and connecting rod were bent...which is the same as what my mechanic said...so should we still do the sterring linkage...or are they one in the same? Sorry to be such a PITA...am very rusty these days.

I say don't get new camber/caster bearings. If the truck was aligned before, the same bearings should bring it into alignment now. They sit right on the top balljoints, and if the balljoints are fine (undamaged), the bearings are fine, too.

Balljoints are supposedly in *really good shape* according to the older guy at the alignment shop I was referred to by my mechanic. I trust him, so I trust them on His word.

Are the shocks damaged from the wreck, or are the mechanics just saying to replace them because they are old?

I think the shocks are just old, and if that is the case, we can replace them at a later date...or while we have her down for the tie-rod ends etc. And a LOT cheaper than what they wanted too!

Same with the steering box. What kind of leak, occaisonal drop, or does all the fluid pour right out? I've had a slight leak in mine for years, and I just top off the fluid when it needs it.

The thing leaks really bad at times, very little at others...I honestly think the wreck made the leak a bit worse...but it has been leaking for a while. We got some of that stop leak stuff to try...figure if I have to replace the box, may as well try the stop leak stuff.

Describe for us the wreck. Did the truck hit a curb, another car? How hard? I figure, if it's driveable on surface streets, it's not very damaged.

Ok, let me see if I can paint a proper picture of the wreck...first off, the truck has the stock *Ford* mags (the ones with the holes all around) and optional 235/75/15 tires, with low but still reasonable tread. She handled just fine prior to the wreck.

Hubby was southbound on the freeway, (in 2wd) when the truck began to slide a bit, he overcorrected, and the truck headed straight for the center median...we have those Cable Barrier medians here, kind of down in a low ditch like center median, with the cable barriers across the middle parallell to lanes of the freeway. The truck went almost straight into the median so as to hit bumper first on the cable barrier. Well the barrier did it's job properly, grabbed the bumper, and swung the truck fully around and smacked the passenger side, leaving hubby facing northbound, on the southbound side of the center median. Basically a 180...

Bumper and all the behind stuff, was ripped outwards about 10-12 inches from where it should have been, (will post a pic) and the truck hit the cable barrier hard enough it popped the passenger front tire off the bead and flattened it.

We got the tire changed, and he drove it away. But, when I drove it to my mechanic a few days later, I could feel the steering was off, and the steering wheel, which had been perfectly centered and such, before, was now, nearly a full 1/4 turn towards the passenger side. And going down the road, she seems to steer straight, tho as I said the wheel is way off...she pulls a bit as well, but not a hard pull.

Hopefully that all makes sense...

Thanks btw for all the help folks! You are all wonderful.

 

[RhainyC]

So, ok here is the picture, it doesn't look like much body damage...the actual damage is the bent inner tie rod and connecting rod from what the shop told me...

*Shudders just looking at it*

Well thankfully my regular mechanic managed to get the bumper pulled back down and almost in place... which is much better now...

 

[RangerX]

They said the inner tie rod ends and connecting rod were bent...which is the same as what my mechanic said...so should we still do the sterring linkage...or are they one in the same?

Yes, same thing, at least for your 91 Ranger.
Here's a pic of what you want. Compare it to what's under your truck, should be the same. (except for the shiny silver "L" bracket)
You just need a pickle fork to remove the old one, pop the replacement on, then go get an alignment.
Boom, good as new. Or at least good as it was.

 

[RhainyC]

Bill,

Very cool thanks! Visuals are always welcomed...now what kind of wrapping paper are you putting that in so I know what to watch for?

But seriously, thank you. We will see about getting parts day after Christmas, and the pickle fork as well. Have you ever used Harbor Tools? Several folks have mentioned buying tools from them...

In case we don't posted btwn now and then, May You and Yours, have a wonderful Merry Christmas.

 

[RangerX]

Harbor Freight is cheap Chinese tools, but sometimes, that's all you need. You could go to Kragen or Autozone, they have free loaner tools.