Tie rods: just tighten or replace?

[drstein]

I Googled around a bit and the only somewhat interesting thing I found was this:

http://www.performancesuspension.com/Explorer.htm

... but, are the original tie rods really that bad? How much should it cost to get them replaced or just tightened? (In another thread, it was suggested that I have them tightened)

I live in an apartment, so I don't have any place to even attempt doing this by myself. :-(

 

[jimbo74]

i changed the tierod end on my truck outside of work before in the parking lot with a hammer and a pair of channel locks and a wrench......

tightening it will work for awhile, but it needs to be replaced...

 

[BrooklynBay]

Have an alignment specialist look at them to determine what is best. Sometimes they are borderline from breaking. I was once in a tire/alignment shop, and was talking to one of the mechanics. He told me to look at one tire rod that was just caught in time before it broke. He hit it with a hammer only one time, and it just cracked into 2 pieces! He told me that if that guy would have hit a pot hole, he would have lost control of his vehicle.

 

[Diddy74]

I Googled around a bit and the only somewhat interesting thing I found was this:

http://www.performancesuspension.com/Explorer.htm

... but, are the original tie rods really that bad? How much should it cost to get them replaced or just tightened? (In another thread, it was suggested that I have them tightened)

I live in an apartment, so I don't have any place to even attempt doing this by myself. :-(

From what I've read its not a difficult thing to do. I also live in an Apt and dont have a garage or driveway to do most of my "repairs" . I would be interested in what would be the best thing to do myself, I have slight play in my outer tie rods also. This weekend was going to install the Energy Suspension Tie Rod boots,and the Cam Kits before getting a much needed alignment. Would this just be a temp fix or am I better off replacing the entire rods?

 

[Creager]

to keep your alighnment in spec somewhat, count the number of threads that are visable before you take the thing apart. The last time i did this i didnt even need an alighnment afterwards.

The hardest part will be removing the actual tierod joint from the knuckle. This work can be made short by using one of those 'ball joint forks,' found at most autoparts stores. A crowbar will work, if you arrent scared to beat on ****.

If you could get the ball joint fork, and a 24oz ball peine, and a 13/16" socket it should take longer then 30-45 minutes to do

1) Remove wheel (certin wheels you might not have to do this, but with my 4.5 backspacing, i have too)
2) Remove cotter pin on bottom of tie-rod end

3) A 13/16" or 15/16" socket removes the stock tie-rod nut.

4) Wedge your balljoint tool between knuckle and the tie-rod bootie.

4-12) beat the **** out of it, and it should POP off. Those things rust in there pretty good, so beating it off is going to be a PAIN. I take mine apart like once a month, and they still can take a hour sometimes to get apart (i dont own the fork tool, which would make it a 20 minute job everytime)

When you are done, remember to regrease em! Torque nut to 40-50ftlbs, and use a new cotter pin!

 

[Diddy74]

I got the Tie Rod Fork, I thought I might need to rent or get the puller too. I know I have a fight ahead, im sure like everything else thats under there rust has taken residence in there too. I wanted to do the rods and put the cam adjusters on before I went to the alignment shop. One shop said he'd put the cams on and align it for about $200!...Parts and labor....hmmmf