til it95' Explorer won't start after running until it sits for 30-60 minutes

[vahn401]

Like the title says, I have a 95 Explorer with the 4.0 engine. I have had it for 4+ years with no serious issues. I have never had a problem with the truck starting, no matter what the weather. A little over a month ago I go out and the truck won't start, and I notice right off the bat that I cannot hear the fuel pump priming for a few seconds like it always does. Checked the relay, that was good, so I replaced the fuel pump and that seemed to fix it.

The problem I am having now is since replacing the fuel pump, the truck still always starts the first time I try (though it does run rough more often than not for 10-15 seconds), but if I drive somewhere, shut the truck off, when I go back out to start it the truck just won't turn over. It will crank, and feel like its going to catch, but it won't stay running. If it does turn over, it immediately dies within seconds. The only remedy is i let it sit for 30-60 minutes and it starts again and is good to go until i turn it off and try to start again. So this morning I checked my fuel pump relay again, all seems well, it engages the fuel pump for a few seconds with ignition. I replaced the fuel filter this morning, and still no luck.

So I'm looking to you wonderful people for help, I don't know what else to try, or check. Thanks in advance for any help, looking forward to your responses.

 

[vahn401]

Replaced the air filter today and things seem to be idling more smooth, but still having the problem of it not starting after being driven. Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[swetrid]

Was it a aftermarket fuel pump? We have seen lots of issues with aftermarket pumps espaecially the cheapies that people try to splice into the factory assembly.

 

[vahn401]

thats what it was, should I try swapping it out for a factory one instead?

 

[vahn401]

Update, replaced the fuel pump with a oem fuel pump, and things seem to be running a little better, but my main problem has still not been resolved. It seems like I have a air issue, because if slowly increase the throttle the vehicle will rev up fine. If I blip the throttle really quickly, it sounds like the engine is going to choke out and die. I have a check engine light on, and it has been on since the initial fuel pump replacement, but being a 95 its not obdii. Will a obdii plug still read this, or do i have to get a special device? Just trying to figure out what it could possibly be air related.

 

[timlagios]

check some threads onchecking your light you have to jump 2 spots on your aldl same spot As you would find the obd2 and the ngine light will flash the codes.http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=147734 here is another thread i found....Test 1: Key On Engine Off (KOEO) test:

1) Preheat engine. Turn the key off and set up as per www.troublecodes.net/Ford. Your choice if you want to use a voltmeter, a testlight, or the CEL (aka MIL) as the output device. Test procedure is the same in all cases, it's just a matter of output device.
2) Turn key on. Relays will click, fuel pump will run briefly as the computer checks various parts of the system for errors (This will be the source of the KOEO codes to be explained shortly).
3) Fast codes are output. I've seen a couple of different descriptions of what information is contained herein. In any case, all you may see is a brief movement of the needle/weak flash of the light to indicate the fast codes have been output.
4) KOEO codes are output. These are codes set during the aforementioned KOEO test. KOEO codes are output, then repeated. Note that if no faults are detected, the computer will output a 111 system pass code. I've seen several attempts to describe code output format, all of which seemed more confusing until you actually try it. My best advice is to try it and see what happens.
5) After the last KOEO code is output the second time, there's about a 6 second pause, a single pulse/flash (the separator pulse) and another 6 second pause. Then the continuous memory (CM) codes are output. CM codes follow the same format as the KOEO codes, and are repeated twice. CM codes are codes set during normal engine operation (often associated with a lit check engine light) and stored for retrieval.
6) Turn key off and disconnect to complete test.
7) If you want to clear CM codes without clearing Keep Alive Memory (KAM), repeat test, disconnecting the STI-SIG RET jumper wire anytime during KOEO/CM code output.
8) If you leave the key on and test connected after last CM code is output, you can enter a test mode called output state test mode. Press the throttle to enter output state test. In this test mode, each press of the throtlle will trigger the computer to cycle various solenoids/controls (transmission solenoids, EGR regulator solenoids, etc.). This mode can be used to test these components.

test 2: Key On Engine Running (KOER) test.

1) Preheat engine. Setup same as for KOEO test.
2) Start engine.
3) Engine id is output. This is a code to indicate the number of cylinders the computer is set up for, and is half the number of cylinders. So you should get three flashes/pulses for a 6 cylinder engine (2 for a 4 cylinder, 4 for 8 cylinders).
4) Immediately after engine ID is output, press brake so computer can test BOO switch. (FYI, other applications have a power steering pressure switch that is tested at the same time by turning the steering wheel. Not necessary on Explorers).
5) Engine will go through a low speed and then a high speed test. These tests will take up to a couple of minutes. During this time, if you want, you can test timing advance with a timing light. Computer will advance timing a fixed 20+Base BTDC. Base is almost always 10 BTDC, so you should see about 30 BTDC timing.
6) At end of KOER test, as engine spins down, you will get a pulse/flash for the dynamic response test (DRT test, aka "goose" test). Perform a brief wide open throttle.
7) KOER codes are output.
8) Turn engine off and disconnect to end test.
9) On sequential fuel injected models, the computer can perform a cylinder balance test. After step (7), press the throttle to enter the cylinder balance test. During this test, the computer will disable each fuel injector one at a time while monitoring idle speed. Any cylinder that doesn't effect the idle speed will be indicated by a code at the end of the test. (Disclaimer: I don't have SEFI, so I've never tried this test. I don't know how well it works.)

Hope this helps