timing chain fix | Ford Explorer Forums

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timing chain fix

twford

Member
Joined
January 25, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Douglas,ga
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 EB 4x4
Kinda new to the fourm figured i would post a few pics of my timing chain progress. Alot of good info on this fourm never would have thought it was timing chain rattle if i didnt find this fourm it was very light rattling noise at idle on occasion but did some searching and found this fourm and found this problem. Great Fourum!!:thumbsup:

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Found loose rear timing chain guide so decided to pull engine.Much easier job whith inner fenders removed.

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Decided to make my own tools for the timing part of this job. This is my crank shaft holding tool. It has the crank locked on TDC and wont be removed until engine is ready to be replaced.

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After removing oil pan found peice of rear guide in the pan but oil pickup was clean.

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After removing front timing cover found balance shaft tensioner broken in to.

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Overall damage,broken rear guide and broken balance shaft tensioner going to replance rear cassate,primary chain guide/tensioner,balance shaft gude/tensioner and havnt decided on primary chain and front cassate both seem to be nice and tight and have reson to believe both have been changed before.

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been down that road before replacing the 4.0 shoc, I just got a wrecked engine with low miles, 10 years later, time for another engine soon I am hearing the chains rattel again.

I hate that 4.0 shoc engine, someone from ford dropped the ball on that engine design,

I now have an 07 with the 4.6L V8 much better.
 






Primary tensioner

Overall damage,broken rear guide and broken balance shaft tensioner going to replance rear cassate,primary chain guide/tensioner,balance shaft gude/tensioner and havnt decided on primary chain and front cassate both seem to be nice and tight and have reson to believe both have been changed before.

Your engine looks good! It's not full of sludge like mine was.

I'm impressed by the time and effort you used to protect the body. I used several old throw rugs that my wife thought were disposed of when she replaced them.

Clever crankshaft holding tool. I hate having to purchase special purpose tools. Requiring special tools is indicative of the manufacturer's lack of planning and regard for the shade tree mechanic.

I suggest that you look for guide pieces until you can reassemble the old units with the pieces. Did you bend a wire and move it around the inside diameter of the screen in the oil pick up tube? I found several large pieces that way. I ended removing the pickup tube in order to shake the pieces out of the screen.

Your primary tensioner is the original 3 leaf spring design. I suggest that you replace it with the superior 6 leaf spring tensioner with a much stronger base.

Normally, replacement of the balance shaft tensioner requires removal of the upper oil pan/reinforcement section. At least two forum members have replaced the spring part of the balance shaft tensioner without removing the upper pan. They slipped the old spring section off and slipped on the new one.
 






OHC maintenance

been down that road before replacing the 4.0 shoc, I just got a wrecked engine with low miles, 10 years later, time for another engine soon I am hearing the chains rattel again.

I hate that 4.0 shoc engine, someone from ford dropped the ball on that engine design,

I now have an 07 with the 4.6L V8 much better.

Most overhead cam engines are interference engines that require periodic replacement of the camshaft timing main component. On Volvos the timing belt and tensioner should be replaced every 70,000 miles. Failure to perform the maintenance results in bent valves and a labor intensive head removal/installation process. In my opinion chains/sprockets are superior to belts/sprockets but Ford lost the advantage with the utilization of their plastic guides. Then Ford knowingly compounded the problem with the rear camshaft tensioner/guide design requiring engine removal for replacement. To utilize the SOHC V6 in the Mustang displayed Ford's continuing disregard for it's customers.

The modular SOHC and DOHC V8 is a much better design but both still require camshaft timing maintenance. The superior camshaft tensioners are similar to the ratchet style tensioners used on the Cologne OHV V6. The chain guides are much straighter than those on the SOHC V6 resulting is less rapid wear. I suspect the guides and tensioners should be replaced every 150,000 miles but that can be done with the engine in the vehicle. A similarly designed SOHC V6 Ford engine has been needed since 1997. Jaguar incorporated the technology in their 1948 XK-120 inline 6 cylinder engine.
 






I suggest that you look for guide pieces until you can reassemble the old units with the pieces.

Yes, all pieces have been found and reasembled I removed my pickup tube aswell and the upper oil pan.

Your primary tensioner is the original 3 leaf spring design. I suggest that you replace it with the superior 6 leaf spring tensioner with a much stronger base.

I ordered my primary tensioner and all timing parts from tasca parts. Will that include the 6 leaf spring tensioner?

Normally, replacement of the balance shaft tensioner requires removal of the upper oil pan/reinforcement section.

I have already removed my upper pan after pics were taking.
 






SOHC V6 installation instructions?

Do you have the SOHC V6 installation instructions? I can't remember who I have e-mailed them to. There are several important things to do when re-installing the upper pan. If you (or anyone else) need the instructions just PM me your e-mail address and I'll send them.

Tasca will provide you with the improved primary tensioner. The old style is no longer available. The rear cassette does not include the jackshaft rear sprocket retaining bolt or the plug.
 






Do you have the SOHC V6 installation instructions? I can't remember who I have e-mailed them to. There are several important things to do when re-installing the upper pan. If you (or anyone else) need the instructions just PM me your e-mail address and I'll send them.

Are you talking about the tighting sequince for the upper pan bolts? If so i have a repair manual whith all of the torqe specifications and tighting seqinces.

Tasca will provide you with the improved primary tensioner. The old style is no longer available. The rear cassette does not include the jackshaft rear sprocket retaining bolt or the plug.

Yes, i ordered the rear plug as well.but i did not order a new jackshaft bolt i take it they are a one time torqe bolt?



I just finshed making my cam locking tool just waiting for the paint to dry ill post some pics of it whith it installed.
 






cam locking tool...

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sealing the gasket & spacers

Yes, i ordered the rear plug as well.but i did not order a new jackshaft bolt i take it they are a one time torqe bolt?

I just finshed making my cam locking tool just waiting for the paint to dry ill post some pics of it whith it installed.

There are some places to clean, some places to apply sealer and the spacers have to be backed out.

Yes, the jackshaft rear sprocket retaining bolt is a torque to yield. That's why it's so dumb that the cassette does not include it.

I am very impressed with your ingenuity on your camshaft locking tool! It looks stronger than the one in the timing kit. I wish I had a welder and had learned how to weld in my younger years.
 






Yes, the camshaft tool is good and solid i tryed it out by torqueing the cam bolt and it dosent flex at all.When all is done and im ready to torque cam bolts im going to use a digital level and shims to make sure cam is absutely level whith mating surface of valve cover.

I had another ? aswell.Curious if anyone has removed this canister? Im just trying to clean or replace things that are hard to get to.Im going to replace my knock sensor,coolant sensor and thermostat housing o rings.

Also do you know what the bolt and tab behind this canister is?

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Crankcase breather

That canister is the crankcase breather/screen that connects to the PCV valve. The Mustang SOHC V6 doesn't have one of those. The plate and bolt aft of it is where the camshaft synchronizer mounts on the OHV V6. On the SOHC V6 there's a gear under the plate that engages the spiral gear at the rear of the jackshaft. That's how the oil pump is driven.
 






That canister is the crankcase breather/screen that connects to the PCV valve.

I was going to remove it to possably clean screen. Figured what it was i removed the retaing clip already was just going to ask about it before i pop it out in case there was something to no about removel.Just trying to be cautious.


The plate and bolt aft of it is where the camshaft synchronizer mounts on the OHv v6.

It was corrded so i was worried it might leak. thought abought removing it to replace o ring but im not sure if i should mess whith it or let it be.
 






Looking for some part #s if any one has them keep geting dead ends on tasca parts.Im looking for part#s for items below.

Knock sensor
coolant temp sensor
O rings/gaskets for thermostat hausing
Front main seal


thanks,
 









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2000StreetRod

Have you purchased your knock sensor yet? I have been looking on tasca,Silver state,and tousley and they only show the 5.0 knock sensor.I dont want to get it from my local dealer because its double the price and dont want to get them from advance auto or napa because i only want ford parts. I might get the front seal and thermostat hausing o rings/gaskets from napa or advance but want ford parts for the coolant temp and knock sensor.
 






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