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Timing Chain Question

repair vs replace

The SOHC V6 is a fairly expensive engine to rebuild. Replacing all of the timing components with quality parts will cost around $300 plus another $75 or more for aftermarket gaskets. If you add an aftermarket water pump ($75), oil pump ($75), rear main seal ($20) and intake and exhaust gaskets the total approaches $600. Head repairs significantly increase the cost. A head gasket set ($175), head bolts ($60) and machine work can easily add another $500. A special tool is needed to remove the valve springs. Then there are the main bearings ($85), rod bearings ($60), piston rings ($125), and block preparation.

A remanufactured engine can be purchased for $2,500. I would not buy one that did not incorporate new Ford or Cloyes timing components.

A late model, low mileage long block may be purchased for $1,000 depending on condition and location but there's still the issue of potential timing chain failure.

Rebuilding an engine is an enjoyable, rewarding learning experience but may not be the least expensive option.
 



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I have already sunk 800 into timing parts, head gaskets/bolts, and oil pump. My waterpump is only around 4000 miles old so I will reuse it. Add the timing tool kit and a few other things and I am already 1k in so I am going to finish it. I have a lead on another machine shop in the area that may surface the heads for me and I would like to have the block surfaced and checked over before I fill it with new parts. I will need to have the valves checked in the heads and I am hoping my cylinders can just be honed. I guess I should also replace the cam bearings to go with the main and rod bearings. I will probably have someone else change the valves if they need to be replaced, won't I need to valve seats cut.

Thanks for all of your advice and help.
 






Can't believe I missed this thread. Please keep posting your progress. I am about to begin a major SOHC rebuild for power, all while meeting CA emissions regs (or at least being able to pass the sniff and visual). It seems reasonable to me that your heads could be milled to correct that degree of warpage. I would be more concerned about valve contact than increased compression. Unfortunatly I, as yet, have no first hand knowledge regarding milling this engine.

I would decide about the heads before investing anything in valves etc. Super Six offers fully polished heads with enlarge valves. You may want to consider these. I understand that they no longer recondition heads but start with new do to limited availability of suitable cores. Read not cheap! Once valves, machine work and more to recondition your heades is considered they may still be viable as far as price is concerned.

Most people do simply replace their SOHC with a Mustang donor. There are slight modifications necessary even just using the Mustang long block but it is still cheaper than rebuilding a SOHC. Your misfortune may be my gain. My project is going foreward regardless but advanced first hand knowledge is always helpful. I'll be rebuilding from the ground up using custom parts but your knowledge will be invaluable.
 






The Super Six heads are only available as stage 2+ or 3 which is a sizable chunk of change. My bigger issue with milling was valve clearance but raised compression is still in the back of my mind. Can multiple head gaskets be stacked to replace the removed material. I ask because the gaskets are already multiple layers. If that is possible stacking an additional gasket in place would allow .030 of material to be removed between the block and heads. There just doesn't seem to be a decently priced replacement set of heads available. I am pretty confident that if I purchased a set of refurbished heads from a parts store that they will have been surfaced.
 






I too would count on the parts store heads having been resurfaced. Thought about stacking the MLS gaskets too. We used to back in the day with race motors. Tolerances were not near as tight than and a race motor only needs to seal for a brief period of time. I doubt this is a viable solution but maybe someone has tried this on a modern aluminium head motor.
 






That would be a no go on super selling thicker gaskets. They have been selling steel shims. I am digging for more info with the contact point.
 






Here is the the response from Tom:

"They are .020", spray them copper spray or Hylomar and instal with the stock head gaskets, they hold up great to boost and temperatures."

They are $80 bucks a set. I may try those if my heads check out ok and are worth surfacing. I think I have found a shop thats not too far away that may do the work for me.
 






Sound like a plan. Keep us posted.
 






I have a question that will apply for when I eventually make it to assembly. Should I use the injectors, fuel rail, and engine wiring harness from the donar truck or from my original truck?

My heads are still at the machinist, he has had time to look at them. All of my timing parts are still on order from Tasca. What do you all think about the prices for heads from here, \. The super six heads are just out of my price range at almost 1600 for a set.
 






which fuel rail?

If both engines have a return fuel system then you can use either fuel rail. Did you ever confirm the year of the doner engine? The last 8 digits of the VIN should be stamped on the rear of the block on the driver side just below the head. The first digit on the block indicates the year: V=1997, W=1998, X=1999

The Morana website lists 4.0L OHC engines for 2000 to 2010. If the heads are new I don't understand why the $200 core charge. $800 for stage 1 is less than $1,600 but still a lot of money.
 






So I picked up my heads from the machinist on Friday. After he cleaned the mating surfaces up and measured them he found that there is nothing wrong with them. So I am good to go there. I pulled the block out of my regular truck yesterday and am going to finish breaking it down tomorrow afternoon/evening. I then think I will take the pair of short blocks over to the machinist to see which he would recommend tearing down and doing some work to. Write now I am thinking the cylinders should be honed and I should put in new rings regardless of doing anything else. I will probably let him determine if anything else needs to be done.
 












I about fell over when he called to tell me. That will be the last time I take anything into to Napa to be looked at/worked on. Now I just have to wait for my parts from tasca to come in, been on order for over 3 weeks now, and then decide what parts to throw in the bottom end. Suggestions welcome from all motor builders/diy rebuilders.
 






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