Timing chain tensioner the true story..... | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Timing chain tensioner the true story.....

Huh? Please don't overthink this. It almost always starts leaking immediately after starting. Also, if you see leaking above the tensioner you have the all too common valve cover leak.

IF YOU HAVE THE REAR TENSIONER INSTALLED WITHOUT A LEAK LEAVE IT ALONE.
SW...Donald.....By the way going to order part off ebay .....What type ID number does the top tensioner have

as a actual real Ford part number on the Ford top tensioner 6K254A number or a engineering number????

thank whom ever.............

 



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No gasket

Gasket included
 






No gasket

Gasket included
Thanks SW....my question is the "Ford part itself marked on the tensioner with a Ford ID number" due to sellers
on ebay.....

Thanks......
 






There are numbers on the tensioner bolt head, but it's NOT the Ford part number.

Look for the term OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) in the listing and/or Ford/Motorcraft in the "brand" description.
 






I would encourage everyone to listen to the experienced SOHC folks relative to keeping the engine running - we’ve been there and done that
 






I would encourage everyone to listen to the experienced SOHC folks relative to keeping the engine running - we’ve been there and done that
Whats that mean ...change the tensioner every 75K before they mess up.....is what I learned...
 






If you are concerned about being a Ford part buy it from Ford. Plenty of cheesy counterfeits have legitimate Ford part numbers on them. You will find these most often on eBay and Amazon for good prices.
 












If you are concerned about being a Ford part buy it from Ford. Plenty of cheesy counterfeits have legitimate Ford part numbers on them. You will find these most often on eBay and Amazon for good prices.
I did,....I bought from a cert. Ford parts ebay deal......Ford dealer some 85.00-93.00 plus...ebay Ford
58.00.............sealed Ford box.....That's why I asked if Ford was ID marking part stamp....I prefer not
to pay 30% more to Ford Corp.....and get a low move stock computerr flagged part dumped on ebay...
 






I did,....I bought from a cert. Ford parts ebay deal......Ford dealer some 85.00-93.00 plus...ebay Ford
58.00.............sealed Ford box.....That's why I asked if Ford was ID marking part stamp....I prefer not
to pay 30% more to Ford Corp.....and get a low move stock computerr flagged part dumped on ebay...
That post is grammatically bananas, and isn’t clear what you are trying to say.
 






I find lots of parts from Lakeland ford , Tasca ...
They are great prices
I go to there website tho..
Worth the money to know it's the correct part
 


















I don't see motorcraft on that list
 






I don't see motorcraft on that list

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Huh? Please don't overthink this. It almost always starts leaking immediately after starting. Also, if you see leaking above the tensioner you have the all too common valve cover leak.

IF YOU HAVE THE REAR TENSIONER INSTALLED WITHOUT A LEAK LEAVE IT ALONE.
Well SW went a week with non washer ...I suppose it came from factory bottom tensioner, no washer...Drove 100 miles no leak.
Even though i felt it should have a washer ......I thought on a sat. after looking at Ford diagram showing
no washer i would install no washer.....A washer I though the ten. would be out of line with the oil port....which seem's cant happen from post here even though I never checked on that fact, seems right. Without the washer the bottom ten. did line
up with the port directly porting into the new tensioner....by chance dont know..

Thanks SW and Donald and others...............Gray
 






Cool. Generally, if the hydraulic tensioners don't leak within the first five minutes of running they're sealed well and won't ever leak. Just a word of caution installing the driver side tensioner as seen in my post #12. Believe I'm the only one on EF that experienced my intake interference issue. Once you break the left tensioner loose make sure the socket doesn't hit the bottom of the intake on the way out. I didn't and ended up with stripped threads because I was too anxious to get it done. Ended up waiting a week for the tap and required another crush washer (gasket) as well. Take your time and make sure the gasket is centered while slowly hand tightening. As I mentioned it took 60 ft/lbs. of torque before it finally sealed. That's almost twice the recommended torque of 32 ft/lbs. when using a new gasket with my damaged and tapped aluminum threads. Had nightmares waiting for the tap to arrive having to replace the cylinder head. Once the tap arrived, and needless to say, I was holding my breath until I heard that wonderful click from my Proto torque wrench.
 






I find lots of parts from Lakeland ford , Tasca ...
They are great prices
I go to there website tho..
Worth the money to know it's the correct part
Had to add this grate post by Donald......About a manual Adjust the tensioner process.

Ok ill try

Disassemble the tensioner and put a bit of oil in t so the o ring can move around when you adjust

Adjust the tensioner most all the way loose ...or in
Then install it into the head
Screw the tensioner adjuster 10mm
Use your hand and a 10mm socket to turn in the adjustment screw with 2 fingers till it stops
Do not use a ratchet !!
Now have someone turn the engine by hand till you feel the adjusting screw get looser
Then adjust again

Now disconnect the crank sensor
Have someone crank the engine with the starter
While you keep trying to screw in the adjustment in by hand with 2 fingers
It will screw in a little at a time

never put much force turning that screw like almost no force required
We are just removing the slack that's it

Now the last part
start it and adjust you will feel the pulse of the valve springs
Again use just a 10 mm socket and your to fingers
Once you feel the pulse ing stop your there shut down the engine

Last step
Back off your 10 mm adjustment 1/4 turn
Lock it down
done

Any ?s
 






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