Tip of the day on oil additives that you need to know | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Tip of the day on oil additives that you need to know

was this enough facts

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    Votes: 8 61.5%
  • well almost

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  • Total voters
    13
Good info! I use B&G 44k fuel additive twice a year to clean the injectors and fuel system and if I'm running non-synth oil, I always add the MOA product to help increase oil stability and viscosity. Probably not needed with full synthetic oil though. This stuff has worked wonders on my older Audis- 87' 4000sQ and 91' 80Q and they don't contain the harmful components like most of the other oil/fuel additives. Just my opinion though, no affiliation with them.

Thomas
Denver, CO
97' XLT SOHC
 



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Higher mileage oils.....

have additives to condition valve stems. Higher mileage oils basically allows your car to runs longer before it begins to burn oil, and requires an engine reuild. Either way, if you change your oil every 3000 miles ( using regular dino lube ), it will be a very long time before you motor burns oil.
 






A good oil (full synthetic). and a change every 3000 miles, helped me put 250,000 HARD miles on my Mustang GT. My X isn't driven anywhere near as hard but I maintain the Synthetic motor oil. I am sold on them. Mobil1 of course.
 






i just started work at advance auto parts... i came across this sea foam stuff and everyone else that works there (several ase certified guys) swear by it.... and the fact that we cant keep it on the shelves says something about it... anyone ever heard anything good or bad about this...
 






I wish you all received Lubes 'N' Greases Magazine. They just did a multi page article about the subject of oil additives. (you can order the magazine fro free) If any wants copies, I can send you one with a Amsoil catalog. My customers get the same results is their engines just by using Amsoil synthetics. Depending on the engine design of course, some people notice the improvements more than others.

In the short term, these additives just like AMSOIL 10W40 for example provide excellent elastohydrodynamic Lubercation (I have a illustration on my site) where the lubricant viscosity is able to provide higher sheer strength than the metal surface it supports. When you use these higher quality lubercants, the metal surfaces actually deform elasticallty in preference to the highly pressurized lubricant, thus increasing the contact area and the effectiveness of the lubricant.. Very few motor oils (withouty the aid of expensive additives) can withstand this sheer strength over long periods of time. This is what makes that engine seem to smooth out.

I felt these effects most in my Miata and also in a flat 6 (my Corvair 110HP Van). It was like driving another car.

The whole point is why use a additive, especially one with a solid lubricant such as molybdenum. Clogs filters lowers viscosity and is more likely to corrode metals. Do some searches on the additive and you will find data like:


Most conventional additives contain anti-friction-agents as its main materials, and as a result, their long life efficiency cannot be expected from the standpoint of ingredients. Typical anti-friction-agents are molybdenum disulfides, teflon, and chloro-compounds.
Molybdenum disulfides, when exposed to temperatures higher than 300│▌, resolve into a corrosion-causing substance. 2MoSO2 + O2 + 2H2 O=Mo2 + 2H2 SO4(Sulfuric Acid)
Teflon was once a popular substitute for Molybdenum disulfides for this reason. However, teflon also was proved to resolve into a cancer-inducing substance when exposed to temperatures higher than 400│▌ (in France)and its use is now regarded as hazardous also, it is said that during this process of resolving, the deterioration of the oil is accelerated.
Chloro-compounds can be resolved into hydrochloric acid very easily, which is highly
corrosive. Their use is being curbed worldwide, now that environmental issues are more of a concern. The use of materials with `chloro' prefixed ingredients are advised against.

Now, some of the big name synthetics such as Redline and Mobil 1 have these additives (Moly). They work great for short term but cost per use is high and must be changed often when used in anything but normal driving conditions. Both Honda motorcycles and Cummins tell the owners "Do not use moly based lubricants in this engine"

Also, oils deemed as "For high mileage engines" - If you started with a oil of quality it would'nt be a high mileage engine needing anything they market as "Special"...


www.syntheticwarehouse.com
Explorer sponsor
 






I have been using SFR for 10 years in my motorcycles,lawn mowers,and cars for ten years and have had very good results in all! want to know more?
Go to sfrcorp.com SFR stands for superior friction reduction.
 






additives

Originally posted by Dave W.
I have been using SFR for 10 years in my motorcycles,lawn mowers,and cars for ten years and have had very good results in all! want to know more?
Go to sfrcorp.com SFR stands for superior friction reduction.

I feel the use of a quality synthetic oil is a better engine investment than any additive. I was told years ago that additives are not really good for an engine. They have a tendancy to 'gum up' yer innards.
 






oil additives

do these additives also include so called engine flushes?
this is in response to the article on oil additives.
 






Re: oil additives

Originally posted by donma
do these additives also include so called engine flushes?
this is in response to the article on oil additives.

No. Engine Flushes have a specific duty of removing carbon deposits left from more volitle engine oils so you don't contaminate the new oil and filter as synthetics have better detergents...

Ches

www.syntheticwarehouse.com
 






:(
I`ve been running slick 50 in my cars for years, every third oil change I get a flush and another bottle of slick.

I`ve never noticed any gains, but never noticed any losses either. I`m not even sure why I use it!

There is a local guy who will hook you up with oil that has Molybdinum in it, I can`t remember the maunufacturer.
He claims that you would only have to do a full oil change after 9,000 km (15000mi) and only change the oil filter and top the oil up in between.

Funny, I don`t quite buy his claims, but I still use slick 50! Maybe I don`t believe him because I have not seen a cool infomercial about it, or seen a box with all sorts of technical stuff, and graphs on it.
:D hmmmm..

-edit

The guy actually has bearing grease with Moly in it.
It is interesting. He showed me his regular grease that he gets in 5 gal buckets and you could see how it had started to "separate" there was a lot of liquid that had leached out of the grease.
The moly stuff looked very different, without any liquid seeping out, and it was blue, and smelled odd.
 






ID50....ill bet you dont notice any losses from slick 50 cause you are flushing it out every other change......do you notice a gain after you start fresh from a flush.

I used to use the fram double guard filter w/ teflon in it.....very noticible increases in gas mileage and power....however...when i changed the oil it was blacker than normal and after about a year it developed lifter rattle....took it to the dealer for a back flush and no more lifter rattle except on start up and thats probably due to damage from the teflon clogging them up(they dont retain oil now) it has around 125k mi on it now and runs great....the flush from the dealer saved me from my mistake. (about $80 instead of 3k for a rebuild)

oh and i use a great oil from Mobil 1 called drive clean blend...its a synthetic blend with special detergents( or more of them) to clean all the gunk out of passages and such. and i noticed a similar gain in gas mileage using this oil as i did with the teflon embeded filter.
 






I Personally run Lucas in my Freightliner with a 500 hp Detroit and am tickled to death with it....Not only has it cut down on the blow-by but it also has helped cut down on oil consumption.....I use to add a gallon of oil around 14,000 miles now i can get 15,000 and it's time for a change.
 






ID50....ill bet you dont notice any losses from slick 50 cause you are flushing it out every other change......do you notice a gain after you start fresh from a flush.

sorry for the delay:

I don`t understand, I only flush just before adding more slick. it`s hard to feel any gains, I mean, I can feel a bit more power on a cold day, but don`t notice anything with the slick. I was more in it for protection rather than gains. I`ll repost when I roll the odometer over...
 






so lucas oil additive is good? i have an 18 year old engine, and it runs like a champ... at some speeds has a timing tick, but thats becuase there is some slop in the chain becuase the head was ported and milled (i was told) the previous owner owned it since new, and i trust him... he rebuilt the engine last year..... it is a toyota 22r engine with a carb..... he told me when i change the oil to use 20w-50 in it and also run a bottle of lucas......

also, what about CD2? there are several formulations, one is a quieter formula, and the other is a detergent formula.... there are also some other ones too
 






Hey fordkrazy.
I saw an article on oil filters, it was an independent test done to see which were better and why. The Fram Double Guard did poorly but the Fram Tough Guard did well. Also the NAPA Gold and SIlver did well. When they cut the NAPA filters open they found the construction of both filter to be identical. Dont know why one was called silver and one was gold.
 






this is more of a joke than a serious comment....

"if teflon makes things NON-STCK, what makes the teflon stick to the pan?" lol
 






Restore?

I have heard good things about restore and Mustangs and Classic Fords Magazine had a great article on it as one that works. I looked on their website restoreusa.com and it is fully compatible w/ syn or conv oils.
I run Full sunthetic in my Ex and tried it and seemed to have a little more pep.
I have about 111k miles, and that engine will last it is the frnt end i'm worried about.
Let me know your opinion.
 






Re: Restore?

Originally posted by Haxaw
I have heard good things about restore and Mustangs and Classic Fords Magazine had a great article on it as one that works. I looked on their website restoreusa.com and it is fully compatible w/ syn or conv oils.
I run Full sunthetic in my Ex and tried it and seemed to have a little more pep.
I have about 111k miles, and that engine will last it is the frnt end i'm worried about.
Let me know your opinion.

I agree, myself and a lot of my friends have ran restore and have had to negitive affects. I can't say about positive stuff because how do you really know if it did anything good? I have always used it at oil changes.
 






Re: What about Lucas??

Originally posted by Abraxsis
I have heard good things and have witnessed with my own vehicles the wonders of Lucas additives. Too bad my cat is freakin clogged and its bogging the X down. Oh well itll be fixed when I get back to my hometown this weekend. Ive heard that why Lucas works so well is that its 100% pure petro products, nothing synthetic or lab created. I dont know if thats true but I use it in conjunction with my Mobile One syn oil and Im completely happy with it. Just a thought.
Lucas additives rock, and so doe the Mobile One, I use the same combination in my X. I really like the power stering fluid, it helps sop leaks and noise.:D Im sure everyone is familar with the loud ford steering pumps.
 



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Stay away from additives. Oil is no longer simply oil. Oil is in fact a lubricant base with an additve package to help other things. Adding stuff to the oil interferes with the chemistry of the oil and doesn't let it do it's job.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

This is an interesting article where various additives are tested, including lucas. In short, the only thing Lucas did was destroy the anti-foam agents in the oil, allowing massive airation.

Just look arourd the site too, lots of good information on how oils work, and what oils are best. As long as you are using a good quality oil (synthetic is better), and you change it regularly, your engine will run like a dream.

Engine flushes (like auto RX) are different. They don't stay in the oil or alter the lubricating properties of the oil. They just clean the carbon, and are then removed.

Oh yea, use the moly-oil! Here's a good article on it.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly.html
 






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