Tips for multiple fluid changes???

[Blue Steel]

hey all. i'm about to change my transfer case fluids as well as front and rear differential on my exploder. i don't have a pump to suck up the fluid from the differential, so i'm going to take the cover off and let the fluid drain that way. i've seen somewhere that after taking the differential cover off, it's a good ideal to apply a "sealer" of some sort around the cover before bolting it back on. what kind of sealer are we talking about here? also, any specific good brands of transfer case fluid and differential fluid? one last thing... are there any tricks to the front differential changing the fluid and taking the cover off, etc? anything to watch out for up front? i'm familiar with the rear differential so i'm thinking it should be the same, right? thanks a lot all.

 

[aldive]

I use Mobile 1 in my rear end. No problems at all.

Good luck....

 

[jrfranz]

Funny - I am working on the same thing this afternoon - a couple tips I have picked up -
1. before you do anything drive the truck for about 20 miles on the highway to get the gear lube up to temp - it will drain better.
2. My '96 it looks like it is just about impossible to pull the front dif cover without dropping the axle. There just is not enough room. I plan on pumping it out via the fill hole and repalcing it in the same way.
3. The sealant is good old RTV - you can get it almost anywhere. Make sure you remove all of the old gasket material before you put more on - draw it as a single, continuous bead and be sure to go around all of the bolt holes.
4. Before you drain the transfer case make sure you can get the fill plug out - it would really stink if it were siezed and you drained the case.

All of this stuff comes out of my Haynes manual - I am not a mechanic, but I work as an engineer - with decent documantation and the right tools and a bit of common sense you can do almost anything.

I bought an aftermarket gasket for my rear dif - as it is cold here I plan on using it when I drain the rear. The package for the RTV says it dries in 1 hour and sets up in 24 - when the temp is 70F - it is about half that here. I bought a fluid transfer pump at Sears ($12) - I used it to refill my transfer case about two weeks ago. It is really hard to get ATF into that hole on the transfer case without some sort of pump or hose.

I am also doing as Aldive - switching over both difs and the transfer case to Mobile1.

Good luck and have fun.
Jeff

 

[sink]

Good ol' blue RTV works great. My own personal rule is BE SURE you completely wipe both the cover surface and the differential face surface before you apply the RTV. The most common causes of leaks with RTV is when you leave an oil film between the RTV and the cover. Sop up any standing fluid before your final wipedown so it doesn't expand and put a run down before you get RTV'd and bolted up. I always use my finger to spread the RTV bead evenly and thoroughly for any engine or auto work where I use it. The storebought fluid syringe is a good idea, but I like my invention. I took a 32 oz Gatorade jug (because the gatorade jug is thick walled and wide mouthed) and set it up with hoses to pump fluid out using air pressure from my compresor. I drilled the lid and pushed one piece of stiff plastic hose through to the bottom of the jug. I drilled the side near the top, threaded a short 1/2 inch bolt, which I drilled, through. I fill the jug with as much fluid as I want, hook a piece of tygon hose from the bolt to the dust blower attachment for my air compressor. Then laying comfortably on my creeper, bottle sitting on the floor with stiff hose ending in the fill hole, I ease on the air pressure and watch the fluid stream right in. The bottle fitted like I said leaks air enough that it is its own safety. Also, the tygon leaks well enough. I love it and have used it for two trans fills and 6 separate differential fills.

 

[01EB5.0]

Originally posted by jrfranz
I bought an aftermarket gasket for my rear dif - as it is cold here I plan on using it when I drain the rear. The package for the RTV says it dries in 1 hour and sets up in 24 - when the temp is 70F - it is about half that here. I bought a fluid transfer pump at Sears ($12) - I used it to refill my transfer case about two weeks ago. It is really hard to get ATF into that hole on the transfer case without some sort of pump or hose.

I am also doing as Aldive - switching over both difs and the transfer case to Mobile1.

Good luck and have fun.
Jeff

There is not supposed to be a gasket on the rear diff. it's supposed to be straight RTV from every mechanic I talked to....

Anyway I use synthetic Amsoil in everything. Also if you have a limited slip rear make sure the oil you use has the friction modifyer in it or you gotta add that. my AMSOIL has the properties so I don;t have to add the friction modifyer for the L/S.

 

[Jason_25]

Ok when I change the rear diff oil this is what I do.

1.Loosen drain plug
2.Remove bolts
3.Pry cover up
4.Drain fluid for 5-10 minuts
5.Sop up remaining fluid with paper towels
6.Scrape all remanining gasket material from flange surfaces with wire brush/razor scraper combo
7.Spray solvent on flange to loosen oil.
8.Wipe dry with paper towel
9.Apply thin bead of RTV sealant on one side
10.Attach cover
11.Tighten bolts
12.Take oil and squirt in diff sideways (don't even use a pump, it's just too messy and awkward)
12.Tighten drain plug

That's it, you're done!

 

[Blue Steel]

well, i've got a hint for getting the fluid in the transfer case and differential with the small holes. clean out a squirt bottle of french's mustard really well and put the fluid in there and squirt it in the hole. that's what i had to do last night since we didn't have what we needed and it was getting late. however, i did replace my transfer case and now i HAVE 4 WHEEL DRIVE AGAIN!!! WHOOHOO!!!! i'm soooo happy. anyways, it was long, but it ended up all right. thanks for the responses guys. didn't get a chance to change the differential fluid. was too tired and didn't want to do anything after the whole changing up of transfer case.

 

[jared ajlouny]

how do u guys take off the differential cover without it spilling all over the place????

 

[F14CRAZY]

how do u guys take off the differential cover without it spilling all over the place????

Perhaps a large oil changing type pan would suffice...?

 

[jared ajlouny]

how importand is it to change the fluid???????? i have about 100k miles on the ex and i dont go through too much water and mud

 

[KPT]

how importand is it to change the fluid???????? i have about 100k miles on the ex and i dont go through too much water and mud

I'd say fairly important. Found some rust in my rear diff today.

 

[jared ajlouny]

so does the fluid go bad or somehtign , what happens, i need to convince my slef to spend 30 bucks to do this

 

[general x]

oils break down over time. Thats why you replace your engine oil (you do replace that correct?) Also shavings of metel or sludge will build up in diffs/engine/transcase/whatever from wear so you want to get that stuff out as well. Your oils can get diluted as well from moisture. Spend the 30 bucks!!!!

 

[jared ajlouny]

ok, i will, and yes i change my oil! lol but my dad wont let me do it unless its 5k miles after the last oil change, thnaks for the help

 

[stubborn1]

Two tips I have -

1. Spend $10 and buy a suction gun for draining the front differential. It will save you a lot of time and frustration.

2. When you clean the rear differential mounting surface, spray some brake parts cleaner in the bolt holes. Oil can get stuck in the holes after draining and it will seep thru the fresh RTV when you put the bolts back in.

 

[general x]

replace diff covers with ones that have drain holes for next time??? That seems like a good tip if you got the money

 

[jared ajlouny]

so i have to replace the front and rear at the same time??? that doesnt make sense , im only in 4x4 a few times a month at most

 

[Ford_Racing_Guy]

i wouldn't think that you'd have to drain the front the same time as rear, unless your rig is all-wheel drive or you are an extreme off-roader and it is in 4wd almost all the time


with mine i will probably change it sometime next month, but the front looks like it might have been changed recently before i bought it because the sealant was orange, and last time i checked all of the Fords have black silicone for sealant, not orange.

for the front if i do change it i think i'm just gonna try and siphon it out instead of dropping the axle!@

 

[general x]

i think you only have to drop the axle on the 96+ because of their independant front suspention doesnt allow room for the cover to move. If you have a 92 like me i think you can just take the cover off cuz it has the TTB(if you want to take it off that is)

 

[KPT]

Actually 95+ is IFS. Even if its not in 4 the gears are turning. Hubs on second gens do not disengage. 95 and I think 96 have a vacuum disco on the passenger side though.