Torque Specs for Rear Dif Cover

[Rod Bivens]

I changed my rear differential fluid about 3000 miles ago, and it has been leaking ever since. I think that I overtightened the cover, distorting the shape slightly. My Haynes manual just said "don't overtighten the bolts," but didn't give me any torque specifications. Could someone give me an idea of how tight I should tighten them? Also, how often should you replace the fluid? Is 100,000 reasonable if you have extended the breather tubes so no water gets in?

Has anyone had any problems with the plastic cover? A new billet aluminum one seems safer, but quite expensive.

Thanks for all your help in advance.

Rod Bivens


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94 Ranger Sprcab XLT, 4.0

 

[Jim F]

My Chilton's manual calls for 25-35 ft lbs for the rear differential cover bolts.

BTW my Chilton Manual covers 91-99 Ranger/Explorer/Mountaineer's.

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Exploring CA
98 XLT 4X4 4.0L SOHC

 

[Kampy]

Rod, Jim's right on with the torque on the diff cover. I broke my composite cover when I backed into a rock, the billet aluminum ones will do the same thing although not as easily. I replaced mine with a stock stamped steel one from ford, only cost about $20.
Hope this helps.

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Kampy

kampy@aeroinc.net

 

[Bill Kemp]

Rod, I was going to write the torque specs. in my Haynes Manual and it is all there on page 1-3.
Hope this helps next time.

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Bill Kemp 96 XLT 4x4 4.0 OHV

 

[Mark R]

Rod, I have changed the rear diff fluid in my Explorer and in a '94 Ranger SCab 4x4 that I owned previously. In both cases the cover has leaked after reinstalling in the same place (drivers side bottom). All I did was clean the area and smear a little black silicone on it and the leak has stopped.

As far as frequency of changing I think the haynes manual has this listed under the maintenance section. Both my vehicles had 100,000 Kms on them (60,000 miles) when I changed them to synthetic. The oil was quite dirty. If there is a chance water has gotten in at any time it should be changed right away.

Mark

 

[Chad Nixdorf]

delete

 

[Rod Bivens]

Thanks for all your input. This has been a tremendous help. I love this message board. I could spend all day on it, If i had the time.

Rod

 

[Scott B.]

Use a Gasket

I use a gasket between my cover and the rear end. Ford did not use one originally (probably to save money) but Victor/Renz (Dana) makes a nice cork/metal gasket for the 8.8 rear. It is available at Napa. I'm sure Felpro and others make gaskets, too.

I coat both sides of the gasket with Permatex Ultra Copper gasket sealer before installing. I have never had a leaking type problem. Yes, it's overkill, but I'd rather not have any leaks.

I too replaced my composite cover with a metal Ford one. Much safer. However, the metal cover uses different bolts than the composite cover. They are available from Ford, and I will get the part number if anyone needs it.

Personnally, I change fluid every 15,000 miles, water or not. Again, this is probably overkill, but it is easier to change it in my garage than on the trail (in the mud).

 

[sharonis3]

!!!!!!!!!!! 25-35 ft-lbs on a plastic cover!!!!!!!!!!!. This is too tight. I just put mine cover back on and after about 10 ft-lbs. the cover was starting to distort and make cracking noises. So I backed off to 10 ft-lbs and left it.

Anybody know the actual torque value, is the number in the Chilton manual just an uncorrected mistake?

 

[Isaac]

well,,,,,,,

how did you seal it up?
i have done several of these on several different cars (plastic and metal covers)
what i do it after draining all old oil, i clean both surfaces with a soft wirewheel mounted on a drill.
then clean things down with some brake cleaner. (brake cleaner evaporates completly just over a short peroid of time)
and also wipe down the surfae with a clean rag, get it nice and dry, you want no oil on this.
then i put a good bead of RVT blue or black (black works best), on the diff cover only, then simple bolt it up,, i have NEVER had a leak in ANY of the vehicals i have done.
there is no need for a gasket here.
good luck.
Isaac

 

[Isaac]

P.S.

just to add,,
after following my instructoins, before adding new oil let the sealent cure for about an hour, without the oil plug in. (to let air inside)

 

[glk07]

Actual Torque

Does anyone know the actual torque required? It seems that a plastic cover should not be tightened any harder than a transmission oil. So some place around 6 or ten ft.lbs. not 30.

 

[RangerX]

I just checked my Haynes, and I can't find the torque spec, although I'm sure it's in there somewhere.
I did see that they say to tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, similar to wheel lugs, to prevent warping.

 

[Rod Bivens]

I just checked my Haynes, and I can't find the torque spec, although I'm sure it's in there somewhere.

The Haynes manual for the Ranger doesn't have the torq specs listed. That's why I asked the initial question.

When I used 25 ft/lbs, I did crack my cover a little. I would suggest replacing the composite cover with a stamped steel one while your are at it. Then the 25-35 ft-lbs makes sense. If not, definately less than 25 ft-lbs makes sense.