Torque Value for Head studs on 4.0 OHV | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Torque Value for Head studs on 4.0 OHV

WilliamWallaceGS

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City, State
Hampton Roads, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Ford Ranger
Hello all,

Just curious who is using, or has used, ARP head studs on the 4.0 OHV (the kit from Morana, to be specific). I have conflicting information on final torque values, and am just curious what others have used. Morana and ARP did not produce the same torque value when I asked them, so I'm curious to see what others have had success with. Thanks for any info.
 



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I'm trying to remember what I used.
I think it was 100 ft lbs. I do remember it was low enough that I questioned it also.
I'll see what I can find.
 












Aha, thanks for the info Dono.

100 ft*lbs is different than what Morana and ARP told me. So Dono, you torqued the studs to the block at 35 ft*lbs, then did the torque sequence on the nuts up to 100 ft*lbs (with the ARP lube or with oil on the threads?)? You've been running at those settings with no issues?

The reason I ask is not only because I'm getting conflicting info, but I'm also getting a slight amount of oil in my water (STILL), and I'm slowly losing coolant after my rebuild (that's a separate thread, not trying to clutter this one). I'm at 90 ft*lbs now with the ARP lube (which is what Morana told me when I bought the studs), so I think before I go buying parts I can just snug them up a little and see if it cures the problem. Maybe Tom had a brain fart that day and gave me the wrong specs? This isn't a bash on Tom either, he's a very nice man and was good to do business with.

ARP told me 80 ft*lbs with their lube, FYI.
 






It was Tom that gave me that info. I searched everywhere, and was seeing specs as low as 80 also. 80 seemed way low to me.
I just used oil.

Also, after torqueing all bolts to 100, I tried setting the torque wrench to 110 and tightening the head studs. Most of the nuts didn't even move.

I remember I had to modify one valve cover slightly to clear a stud nut, but it did not affect sealing of the valve cover. That should be in my thread also.

Im glad I rambled on so much in that thread, it might help others.
 






That's a good point, I had to take a little material away from one spot on both valve covers as well to get them to seat correctly. Just an extra bit of info if anyone reading this wants to use head studs on the OHV.

I'll try to snug them all up to 100 ft*lbs and see how that works. My leak is very small, so hopefully that'll do it. Thanks for all of the info.
 






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