Trans Solenoid Pack Replacement

[buubba429x]

I have a 2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 with the 5r55s transmission. I need a new transmission solenoid pack and after checking with the dealer, I was told the part number I needed was 7G391 and that it would cost between $350-400. After looking online, I found a bunch of places that sold it brand new for $250. Their description of their solenoid pack clearly states that it's compatible with my transmission model and everything, however their part number is 9L2Z-7G234-AA. Does anyone know if these part numbers are interchangeable? I don't want to order the wrong part, take the tranny apart, and realize I received the wrong part. Please chime in if you have any info..

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com & WWW.Wittrans.Com.

 

[JoshMcMadMac]

It sounds like you have received some crossed up numbers. The most recent revision of the solenoid block is 9L2Z-7G391-A. I highly recommend getting it from a dealer; http://www.tascaparts.com has it for just under $300 shipped.

 

[Stangly]

If your symptoms are slipping 2nd or no 2nd gear, it may not be the solenoid. Had same issue back when, and it turned out to be the servo pin bore rounded out on the case. I was told that it is common on these tranny's ... just saying, make certain before wasting any $.

 

[buubba429x]

Well it's got a PO775 code which points directly at the solenoids so I'm replacing the whole pack and doing a transmission service while the pan is down. Hopefully it'l help me squeeze a couple more years out of the tranny

 

[BrooklynBay]

That code is usually related to worn servo bores. Other members have replaced the solenoid block, and the code remained. This issue usually starts after 60K miles. Look into the aftermarket servos with O rings. Resleeving the bores will require an entire rebuild, so the servo with the O ring is the next option.

 

[imp]

Don't recall what P0775 is, but in my case, the code was Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, confirmed by watching tachometer reveal failure of clutch to engage. Solenoid module replacement fixed it, bought on E-Bay for $185, Bosch part came in original German sealed box. imp

Edit: 5R55S, 2004 year.

 

[Joscibo]

Don't recall what P0775 is, but in my case, the code was Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, confirmed by watching tachometer reveal failure of clutch to engage. Solenoid module replacement fixed it, bought on E-Bay for $185, Bosch part came in original German sealed box. imp

Edit: 5R55S, 2004 year.

I'm having trouble with OD and rpm surge when climbing a hill. It feels like back and forth up and down in OD. Is this what you had going on? It shifts fine through all the other gears. I'm struggling to get this fixed.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Do you have any code numbers with a flashing O/D light?

 

[Joscibo]

Do you have any code numbers with a flashing O/D light?

No none. But it is very noticeable. It doesn't do it when I turn OD off on the shifter. Changed filter and fluid no difference and I'm stumped!

 

[BrooklynBay]

How many miles does it have? It's possible that this is the beginning of a servo bore issue. The servos leak then lose apply pressure which causes the band to slip.

 

[Joscibo]

How many miles does it have? It's possible that this is the beginning of a servo bore issue. The servos leak then lose apply pressure which causes the band to slip.

It has 165,000 on the Explorer and 60,000 on engine transplant recently done. The torque converter had a warranty tag on it that was dated and done on April 2010. I'm not sure if the entire tranny was rebuilt or the just replaced the torque converter?

 

[imp]

Likely NOT TCC Solenoid Issue

I'm having trouble with OD and rpm surge when climbing a hill. It feels like back and forth up and down in OD. Is this what you had going on? It shifts fine through all the other gears. I'm struggling to get this fixed.

My '04 5R55S is programmed to shift into OD gear (5th) BEFORE TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) engagement, when accelerating under normal driving conditions. At minimum throttle to achieve speed, 5th. engages at 40 mph or a little higher. TCC follows which can be readily seen on the tach.

A hillclimb "downshift" ALWAYS is a TCC "unlock", then, if power is still insufficient, 5th. downshifts to 4th, this being again while cruising not at high throttle requirement.

After 5th. gear is achieved, before TCC lockup, SLIGHT throttle increase is "seeable" on the tach; this is the engine rpm increasing higher than TC output speed due to torque multiplication, the normal converter purpose. Once TCC is engaged, SLIGHT throttle increase will cause NO tach rpm increase, as converter operation is non-existent then, THIS BEING THE CHECK FOR TCC BEING FUNCTIONAL. However, care is needed, as too much throttle will cause TCC to unlock, visible as rpm increase.

From your description of symptoms, my guess is your problem lies outside of the torque converter. imp

 

[Eddiebauer2003]

Goodluck

Hate to burst your bubble bubba,but that code IS related to the solinoid BUT more then 95% of the time its like the other poster said,New servo bors or broke band,Just bought a explorer for my girlfriend thought i was getting a good deal,to make this story short and sweet,went to the parts store,had it tested sure enough P0775 was the code,done some research said was solinoid,yet i did more research and alot of people on diffirent forums are saying the same thing there telling you..i spent 300.00 for the latest and greatest Updated solinoid..didnt do squat at all..needs new servo bores or a band is broken..OD light flashing etc still..i hope in your favor though it might be that but if it has as many miles as you say it does..your lucky to even have it last that long..this explorer i bought has 160k miles..motor strong no knocks or taps...tranny is junk.Wish you luck though!====
Left some info out had to redit,when i bought the truck the dealer told me i needed the solinoid pack,first gear dosent shift until 3k-4k rpms might be skipping a gear not sure,also the button for the overdrive didnt work.after i replaced the solinoid the button worked and turned overdrive on and off..on the dash light indicater...BUT overdrive still does not work after replacing the entire pack..can only go about 50-55 any higher then that and im driving at 2500-3k rpms

 

[Joscibo]

My '04 5R55S is programmed to shift into OD gear (5th) BEFORE TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) engagement, when accelerating under normal driving conditions. At minimum throttle to achieve speed, 5th. engages at 40 mph or a little higher. TCC follows which can be readily seen on the tach.

A hillclimb "downshift" ALWAYS is a TCC "unlock", then, if power is still insufficient, 5th. downshifts to 4th, this being again while cruising not at high throttle requirement.

After 5th. gear is achieved, before TCC lockup, SLIGHT throttle increase is "seeable" on the tach; this is the engine rpm increasing higher than TC output speed due to torque multiplication, the normal converter purpose. Once TCC is engaged, SLIGHT throttle increase will cause NO tach rpm increase, as converter operation is non-existent then, THIS BEING THE CHECK FOR TCC BEING FUNCTIONAL. However, care is needed, as too much throttle will cause TCC to unlock, visible as rpm increase.

From your description of symptoms, my guess is your problem lies outside of the torque converter. imp

This describes it well. My OD button works so does everything else. I have another tranny in a parts vehicle but that has 150,000 and is an original tranny which could grenade at anytime in these vehicles. What should I do should I visit a tranny shop or drive it? I want to sell the rig soon but I want it to run right first without dumping large pile of money into it.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Rebuild the parts transmission with 150K miles, then install it into your vehicle.

 

[Joscibo]

Rebuild the parts transmission with 150K miles, then install it into your vehicle.

Hard to spend 12-$1500 when you don't know for sure the tranny in it that is acting up in over drive has gone bad. Kind of like having heart surgery cause you might need it later in life. I'm looking for a way to diagnose what's wrong then decide what to do. I don't put new parts in guessing to see if it fixes it until I know that's what's wrong. If I throw parts at a problem I do cheapest ones possible not $1500 worth guessing it might fix it.