Transfer Case meltdown ? Help!

[khkiley]

HI, I made a post a couple days ago about my tranny not holding in park, not being able to hold while engine braking (Loud shreiking sound while engine rpms dropped to idl), and then I found out that I also did not have reverse. The trans was rebuilt around 5K ago.

Its an '96 EB VB 4x4

The company that rebuilt the trans picked up the truck took out the trans and said the trans was fine - but, the transfer case had a melt down, blew out the front seal, contaminated the tranny fluid and caused the tranny problems.

This all sounds a little far fetched to me, because I have never heard of a transfer case that could work going forward, and not work in reverse, I've also never heard of a tcase leaking into the transmission, though I suspect it could.

What are everyones thought on this because I am PO'd about the whole situation, and I don't know enough to be satisfied with their explanation.

The tranny was under warranty, and I would hate for them to blame the tcase for the problems to get out from under the tranny warranty.

I hate to do this but this is a double post from the 911 section to increase the number of people that may see it, I have to go take a look and the tcase tomorrow.

Thanks again,

Kurt

 

[cjbarron5]

the way ford had this t case designed thats what happens i just did mine about a month ago it cost me 60.00 to get parts w/shipping so dont let them gouge you to bad
mine would work sometimes in reverse and sometimes not it was luck of the draw i have a break down of the t case if you want to see it i can email it to you just pm me

 

[cjbarron5]

email sent

 

[Sethro]

I just started having the same problem. No reverse, makes a higher pitched grinding noise when I put it in reverse. Drive works fine until I let off the gas, makes the same noise.

Can you send me the break down as well please.

Thanks

 

[khkiley]

Sethro, please keep us posted as to what happend to your tranny, because I still don't think my transfer case was the root of all evil for my tranny.

I ended up letting them put a rebuilt tcase in, and they fixed the tranny as part of the deal - it ended up being too much work/time/money to do anything else.

Kurt

 

[macanudo56]

khkiley,

You (and Sethro and me) have a Borg Warner 4405 transfer case and it's likely the culprit for the problems described.
The grinding noise, drive loss sensation and desengaging is usually more noticiable in reverse or when letting off gas. In an extremely simple way, this is due to a helical gear related issue (inside the t-case).

Sethro, if you decide to go for it yourself I can offer some advice.

Luis

 

[rjhusak]

Me Too

Hi All..
I have experienced the same symptoms that have been described in the other postings here. BUT, the poor guy's who are working on mine have had it apart 3 times now.. Believe me they are better techs than that. Each time they have it apart and I get it back it seems ok for 20 or so miles but then starts the clunking and ratcheting noises... They have gone through the boxand replaces the plastic guides.. Broken and have put a new shift motor and speed sensors in as well.. The Ford people are now telling them it needs a GEM computer. They feel it's trying to shift into low when it is deaccelerating. I am intriged with the "gear" problem that was mentioned.. Any Ideas will be appreciated!
Ron Husak
97 Sport
Conifer Colorado

PS it has 154K on it and been trouble free till now.

 

[macanudo56]

Ron,

I don’t really think you need a new GEM and maybe the new shift motor was unnecessary also. For what I know, BW 4405 failure is generally not related to electronic or electric malfunction. I repaired the t-case with the help of the old trustful family mechanic (I had a hard time convincing him to join the project but he ended enjoying it). It is about 3000 miles since, and so far so good.
This is my experience, I hope it would be of some help for you or the technicians working on your t-case (WARNING: long post follows)

Once you have it apart, the first to inspect are:

A) Output shaft rear bearing housing. Most 4405's have some degree of damage on this spot, causing the bearing to get loose and a noticeable play on the output shaft. Gear malfunction follows this condition. The case is made in the most common alloy of magnesium-aluminium-zinc, and although a soft metal, you still have alternatives for repair here:

Alternative 1: Inserting a sleeve into the worn housing. Many machining shops will do it and it shouldn't be expensive, but you will likely lose the groove for the snap ring in the process of machining the case. However, I think the bearing will hold well without the snap ring.

Alternative 2) If you want to keep the snap ring groove and you have a play under 0.015" I think you MUST attempt first mounting the bearing with Loctite 660 or similar. It's simple, works fine and it is by no means a temporary repair. Lots of heavy machinery are repaired this way and last forever.

B) In each of the half cases you’ll find a hole where the shaft for the shift fork sits. This will be generally worn into an oval shape, and the resulting play is a likely cause for the t-case trying to shift into low by itself. First, you’ll have to guess where the centre point of the original round hole was and then, using a cylindrical milling bit, machine it as little as required to get a round hole again. Then insert a bushing to eliminate the shaft play and it’s over. Again, this should be a simple task for any machining shop.

So you don't want to tackle any of those? Are you going to miss the call of challenge? Well, there's a company that sells repaired half cases. Try www.omegamachine.com.
And you can always get a new rear half case from Ford. Their price is not for the faint of heart, but they’re available.

With A) and B) cleared, you’ll still have to look at:

C) Input shaft and range gear (the one that slides under the command of the shift fork). These are the ones that, when worn, disengage by themselves causing the drive loss. You could try to just change the gear. I changed both for good sake. Note that the snap ring that holds the input shaft is under the front seal. Once you have pried out the seal, take out the snap ring and then carefully hammer out the shaft in the rear direction.

D) Basket-shaped spring behind the multi-plate clutch. Looks fine, doesn’t it? Go buy a new one and compare its height and resilience with the old one. Now you get the point.

E) Ball and ramp plates. Look for cracks, wear or heat damage.

F) General condition of electric clutch and coil. You did the motor and sensors, so that should be fine.

F) Bearings and seals. Maybe the only things into this t-case that are not expensive. Just change them all. Get good bearings (SKF, Timken). Use Ford seals.

I’m not saying anything on assembly and disassembly, after three times your guys should be very capable.

I hope everything comes out good. If you need more help or have questions, just let me know.

Good luck,

Luis