Transfer case not engaging.

[Corey]

I have a '92 and the 4x4 will not engage. When I press the button there are two clicks that come from the back(where the wiper fluid access panel is located). I checked the fluid level and all the connections. There is a electrical motor on the transfer case that is rusty. I think that may be the problem. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[CHH777]

That clicking is your electronic shift module. You're getting power from the switch to the module so your problem is most likely the shift motor you mentioned. Check the Dr. Bob solution first and see if that fixes your problem:

Dead Link Removed

 

[Perry]

I had the same problem. My light would stay on, but it wouldn't shift.
Someone said to check the modular in the rear. There is a little button on the bottom and if you push it and it blinks, it's your motor, if it stays on it's your modular. I tried it and it stayed on but I put onther one on and that wasn't it.
Today I took it to a friends shop and he said it was the motor. I picked up a motor at Ford and that was the problem. You might want to take the motor apart and clean the brushes. I tried that and it is easy.

Dead Link Removed

Check out this web sight before doing anything. It might help.

 

[wilk1]

Hey Perry,

It sounds like you didn't disconnect both connectors on the left side of the assembly. You need to do that before running the test.

Jason

 

[Perry]

NOW YOU TELL ME!!!!!!!
I will remember that for the next time. Sounds like this is a problem with Explorer's. My friend at Ford said they had 13 of those motor's in stock and at the first snow storm he said they will be sold out.
It only cost my $60.00 to have my mechanic friend do the test and put in the new motor.
And by the way, he didn't cut the brown wire. You can take the connector apart.

 

[wilk1]

Just toyed with my Tcase motor this weekend. The Doc has some good advice, works perfectly now (as far as engaging the 4x4 goes). However, now I get a pop and thud from the front end everytime I have 4x4 engaged and go about 1 mile or so.

 

[Longs]

Yesterday I got exactly the same symptoms on my '93 Limited. Push the 4x4 button, no light, one click, 3-4 seconds later, a second click. The bad part is that three days ago the 4wd was working perfectly!

wilk1 is right about the LED on the control module. If you don't disconnect the two connectors, the light will stay on when you push the test button. With both connectors off, the light flashes.

My turn to do this job now. I went and got my contact cleaner and security torx bits. I hope the process is as smooth as everyone says!

 

[BlueDogBandit]

how much for the motor?

i replaced mine last winter, and they charged me $230 for parts and $150 in labor. It was thirty below and I was leaving for a long trip the next day, so I just payed it. I'm wondering if I got ripped. This is my local drivetrain shop that I use a lot, so please let me know.

 

[Triton46]

OK, to check the 4X4 module in back beside the rear wash jug.

1) Take jug off of the side panel
2) Unhook the two wire harness' connected to the left of the module
3) Turn key to On
4) Push button.

and this will tell me whether it is the module or the motor...correct?

Do you have to remove the jug? It looks like you do because it is to close to the lower harness on the module.

 

[Longs]

You don't have to remove the jug. The shift module is the upper module - directly below it is the antitheft control (if you have that). The two connectors that must be removed to do the test are on the rearward side of the module. You don't have to loosen or remove the module itself.

You'll see a square white button sticking down on the bottom of the module. You push it straight up toward the roof to activate it. If you do that with the connectors hooked up, a red LED next to the module will glow. If you disconnect the connectors, the red LED will flash, apparently indicating that the module is OK but there's a problem at the actuator motor mounted on the transfer case. (I presume unless there's something wrong with the module)

I hope this is right. I'll find out when I work on the motor!

 

[Triton46]

Longs,

I dont have anti-theft (manual doors and windows). I opened up the panel and to the left of the jug is a metal box with a white button on the bottom and two connectors (one is grey and an inch and a half wide the other is white and about 2 and a half inches wide). The wide white one, on the bottom left of the metal box(module) is sandwiched against the tank. Are these the right connectors? Also, does anyone know where to get a good price on a new one? Ford quoted me $300.

 

[Triton46]

I think the sports are built with tighter tolerances in that area. I removed the tank, unplugged both harnesses and did the test....light blinked several times then stopped. I tried several times and confirmed that that was the problem.

So now I will clean the electric motor in a few weeks. Kinda glad that is what it was, as the module is pretty expensive.

 

[Longs]

Two hours into the job now... I have the motor out of the car, but I can't get those damned security torx screws out to save my life. I even purchased the security torx set, but the 20T bit, which is the required size, was promptly torn up by the frozen screws, which are now also tearing up. So far I've tried almost everything in my toolbox. I hate to think of it, but I may try tomorrow to cut slots into the screws to see if I can turn them out with a screwdriver. Right now I'm soaking the screws with penetrating oil. With the pounding and twisting I've done so far, I'm hoping for a miracle.

My motor may have shifted a little bit - once I pulled it off the cam, it didn't want to go back on. Another reason I have to get those damned screws loose. I saw someone claim to clamp onto the screws with vice grips... No way my vice grips can get on those little screw heads!

Thanks for that design, Ford!

 

[Perry]

The 3rd time my dad and I took the motor apart we couldn't get it back on either. What we did is take the back of the motor apart, then turn the motor inside just a little, then put it back together and try it again. It was really helpful to have an extra pair of hands under there.

 

[Ira]

Longs,

I have not had to work on mine, but maybe I can help you out. Many times, you can take a center punch or small pin punch and put the end of the punch on the center (security) pin of the screw, then take a hammer and hit the punch. Usually, it will break the pin off and you can then use a regular torx bit/socket to break the screw loose.

Another possibility, take a center punch and put the pointed end of it on the outer edge of the screw and hit it with a hammer a few times. The impact will usually allow the screw to come out. You can also use a cold/cutting chisel on it to do the same thing.

Sometimes, you can just take a hammer and hit the screw heads directly a couple of times and it will break it loose if it has corrosion on it.

If you do end up cutting slots in the screws and they still won't come out, put the point of the chisel in the outer edge of the slot and try again. All of these methods have worked for me.


[Edited by Ira on 11-21-2000 at 08:29 PM]

 

[Longs]

Job Finished - 4wd engaging perfectly. As follow up to my post above - I had about 5 hours in this job, not the 1 to 1-1/2 hours that seems to be the thread at Dr. Bob's page. I had to use a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to "slot" those proprietary torx screws, then I was able to turn them out with a ratchet (to break them loose) then a screwdriver. Without that difficulty, it would probably take about 2 - 3 hours to do the whole job.

Since I wasn't sure exactly where my problem was, I addressed the motor and the position sensor/actuator itself. I disassembled the motor and cleaned the armature and the brushes, greased the end-caps, etc. I also disassembled the sensor/actuator and cleaned the contacts there, and I also found that the rubber stop in the actuator had deteriorated to nothing. Like others mention on Dr. Bob's page, a small piece of 5/16" fuel line seemed to work just fine as a fix.

Like everyone else, I'm assuming this will last quite a while. I wouldn't hesitate to do this job (except for those damned proprietary screws)as long as you take your time, mark the alignment everything so that you can easily reassemble, and don't fool yourself into thinking you can do a thorough job in too short a time.

 

[Perry]

CONGRATS Longs !!!!!!
Just think you saved money AND learned more about your vehicle. I figure the more you know about it the better you are. Maybe something else will go wrong and you won't be so worried about digging into it.

The next one you do would take less time, so that is why the mechanics can do it in about 2 hours.

Now it's time to go four wheeling!!!!

 

[Triton46]

Congrats Longs!

Now that you're an expert...mind coming over and fixing my shift motor?