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Transfer Case output bearing

vervepipes

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Joined
January 26, 2005
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City, State
Cold Lake, Alberta, Canada
Year, Model & Trim Level
'98 XLT
Hey, you guys that have had this job done, how much was it for parts and labour? It is obvious to me that it is the bearing because there is loads of free play in the shaft at the Tx case. For me this is a job which requires more time than I have at the moment especially having gotten rid of my 2nd car recently. I dont even know if I can swing having it fixed soon because I'm buying a house and I had to use all my extra cash to go around a bank screwup. Any info? Thanks
 



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I have an used transfer case on the shelf I can exchange with you for $75 if you pay all the shipping. It will take you about four hours to do the R&R. You would also need a $5 gasket or use silicon and 1 1/2 quarts of Mercon fluid. Hope you find the time before it breaks the shift-fork and lose reverse. Try to not use 4LO.
 






its parked in the driveway for now, using my bike this week. going to a shop to have it done on thursday
 






Curious, how much is the shop charging you?

Just as an FYI, you can get a tranfer case rebuild kit which includes bearings, gaskets and seals for about ~$110.00

Here is the part number and stuff from Drivetrain.com :
K295000
Rebuilder Kit - Bearings, Gaskets and Seals
$108.48
 






The bores that the output bearing and shift-fork rod ride in are likely worn and will need sleeving or case replacement. Wish you well.
 






I dont know how many hours they will charge yet. the reason i'm asking is with the bank screwing up on my house buying i'm short on cash for a while, and I got a hold of a VW golf that needs a fuel pump for free, so I may just get a fuel pump and save for the Tx case repair
 






If the GOLF's is less than $100 or so to fix, then go with the golf for now. Winter is not for another few months so let the 4x4 sit :D
 






Help me Tranfer case gurus (eg IZWACK), is this the 4405 ?
 






:D Yeah I'm assuming it is the 4405 unless vervepipes has the 5.0L engine
 






There are so many 4405 issues.... if I was rebuilding one I'd do more than fix JUST what was wrong.... I have one in my garage I want to build it "right" but I cannot jump into that until I have the 4R70W Diary project tranny sold.
 






Yeah I have an OHV. no progress yet on the Golf, fuel pump works when hooked directly to a battery but when cranking theres no action from the pump... the shop estimates 700$ in labour costs so I'm gonna look at pulling one from the pick n pull this weekend since i'm heading down there anyways with a rental car
 






what year is the GOLF?
 






Not to jump to another topic... but WAY too many GOOD fuel pumps get replaced. If yours works fine of a diet of 12V, it is not sick. Wiring, plugged fuel filters, bad fuel pump relays all top that list. Do not just throw a new pump into it, find out why the existing pump isn't getting a good solid 12V feed is my advice.

Been there done that THREE times in the last 3 years. Second time time I replaced a perfectly good pump. (GRRrrrr)

Like I said....I have dropped 3 fuel tanks in as many years. Trust me on this one.
 






Fuel pumps in the tranny forum, who'd a thunk it?
 






lol its in the tranny forum because it started with my Tx case problem. the golf is an 86 and I've determined that the pump works, but at his point only if its connected to a 12v source
 






Well at the moment I am feeling flush with good advice about fuel pumps so you came to the right place for me to pontificate.

"Do you want fries with that ?"
 






Probably shouldn't answer this question here but it is a $40 fuel pump relay and you can temporarily run the vehicle by jumping across two of the center terminals with a wire and plugging in the relay but it will continuously have power to the pump.
 






Indeed, it sounds like it's just a matter of getting power to the fuel pump.... fuel pump relay or inertia switch are the two most likely culprits.

-Joe
 






yes and i'm phoning for relay availability as we speak
 



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gijoe is right... and so is je5. Things I have encountered when the pump itself was otherwise good have been bad grounds (fuel pump does not self ground through the tank connection but has a separate ground wire) obviously bad relays or points that are battle scarred, inadequate power at the relay for it to transfer to the pump (corrosion issues usually at some point in that side of the circuit) or chaffed wires.

I have driven more than one vehicle where I plugged in the pump to drive it somewhere and unplugged it once I got there (While I was troubleshooting it, of course).
 






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