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Transfercase Removal 97 AWD

bcorradi

Member
Joined
December 9, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Lake Park, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 XLT 5.0 AWD
The chain is stretched out in my transfercase so I'm in the process of swapping it. However, I cannot seem to get the transfercase free from the transmission. These are the steps I have taken so far.

1) Removed Cross member
2) Removed the rear driveshaft at the xfer case.
3) Removed the front driveshaft at the front of the vehicle (non transfercase side)
4) Removed the bolts for the tranny support bracket so I could lower it a bit to get at the top two tranny/xfercase bolts. I have checked and double checked and I have all the tranny/xfercase bolts removed.
5) Removed one nut from a bracket on the tranny that bolts to the xfercase.
6) Removed one wiring connection.

The bottom of the transfercase is away from the tranny, but the top is not.

I planned to slide the transfercase and front driveshaft towards the rear of the vehicle to remove it. I would then mount the front driveshaft on the new transfercase and then position it in place.

Any ideas on what I could be missing? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Another quick thing I should have looked at before. The transfercase I have in there is a 4404-5 and my replacement is a 4404-4 so I'm not sure if its going to work or not.
 



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Wow you did way to much work. You didn't need to remove the crossmember at all. Just the wiring, front and rear driveshaft, and the 6 bolts holding it to the transmission. The best way to get the top 2 bolts is through the cabin. You remove the center console, and pull the carpet back, or cut a hole in it. There is an access panel there that gives you access to the bolts, and a couple of the o2 sensors. If your sure you got all 6 bolts out the only thing that could be holding it in is the alignment dowels. You might need to get a pry bar in between them.
 






Ohh ok I didn't know that....I may use the access panel underneath the center console to get those two bolts back in. Looking at the new transfercase there appears to be only one dowel on the top side? I have a feeling this is what is holding it.

Also after more inspection I noticed the new 4404-4 transfercase has 4 bolts holding the front driveshaft to the rear driveshaft. My 4404-5 that is currently in the vehicle is different. Would I need a new front driveshaft to use this transfercase?
 












Sounds like you got a 96 transfer case. They actually have a better drive shaft. It's a double cardan, instead of the cv joint. So you have 2 options, get an 96 driveshaft, or different transfer case.

edit: transfer case would have to be a 97, 98 and newer get their speed from the abs sensor in the rear axle.
 






Ohh ok gotcha...I think I would rather have what you call the "double cardan" instead of mine with the cv shaft. Is the only driveshaft I can use is off a 96 AWD explorer or mountaineer? Or were there other years or non AWD also? Thanks again.
 


















Ok thanks again...I assume the flange (the piece that goes onto the u joint on the transfercase side of the new front driveshaft) would be similar if not the same as to what is on the transfercase side of the rear driveshaft? Sorry for all the questions.
 












Ok gotcha...what is the proper name for that flange piece? Also does it have to buy off just a 96 explorer or are there other years too that will work?
 






Sorry - the driveshaft in that ebay auction is for a V6 truck, it will not work on the V8. The shaft you want was only found in 1996 and a tiny number of early 1997 V8, All Wheel Drive trucks. It has a 4-bolt flange at the t-case.
 












Ohh ok one of those may be tricky to find....I'll have to talk to the guy I got this xfer case from (a buddy's dad's jy). Hopefully he has the driveshaft off the vehicle still.
 






no delete option, I remove my post
 






I just took mine out the other day, just get under the truck with a hammer and beat on it, it will start to slide out. There is a dowel pin about 3/4 the way up that likes to stick in the trans.
 






I assume it needs to go straight back at least an inch before it will drop down?
 






about 3/4 then it will start to rotate on the output shaft on the trans, it should slip free at that point.
 






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