Transmission fluid lines (5.0L V8)

[avgMounty]

Prior owner snapped the pressure line (trans to radiator, upper) when doing the radiator, 3/8" tubing. I figured no big deal, except the line flaring tools don't seem to be able to flare the steel (stainless?) original line or new replacement parts store end I bent to replace it. It looks like the factory tacked it together with the return line that comes from the cooler back to the transmission, with a mounting bracket.

Is there a better way to flare and put fittings on the steel lines? (I am willing to admit not doing it right, granted it's not a complicated process, or having the right tools.)
Am I going junkyard shopping?
Would a 4.0L pressure line work? (ie Doorman 624-268) I'm not sure how similar the 4R70W and 5R55E are, or how close the radiators are.

 

[410Fortune]

You can easily flare the lines not sure why having issues?

The lines are not welded together they are held together with metal clips

You should be able to use a small pipe cutter and cut the end, then file it smooth, the do a simple flare, a small one so it does not cut into the new rubber line, and then double Clamp

 

[C420sailor]

Yeah, maybe your flaring tool isn’t up to snuff?

Members have used high pressure transmission hose to replace the lines. You just need good stubs at the radiator/cooler and trans. Double clamp, and make sure the hose is well protected, secured, and shielded from road debris.

That said, I prefer metal lines

 

[8TZX]

I used transmission hose to replace a 6" section of cooler line that had rusted and developed pin hole leaks. This was the line between the transmission and the upper radiator inlet. I used a 12" length of hose and I did use double clamps on each end. I used fuel line clamps instead of standard screw clamps. The fuel line clamps evenly distribute the clamping pressure. It has been two years, about 5K miles, and no issues. I also had a bad experience with a Dorman replacement cooler line. The flared fitting that connected to the lower radiator fitting did not have the correct thread pitch. I ended up replacing the Dorman fitting with the original fitting. I did have to re-flare the Dorman steel line.

 

[410Fortune]

My bronco ii has been running rubber hoses for 20 years now. I have 6” of metal line coming out of the trans and that’s it…. The rest is rubber / trans cooler / line
Simple flare and double clamp is all that is needed these are low pressure
I also use fuel line clamps

Metal lines are way better, they dissipate heat better and are less susceptible to damage…
But not always available

 

[avgMounty]

Been busy, but I discovered that you have to commit a little tool abuse to get it to hold the line without slipping. Broke the first tool with one flare left to go, replaced it and finished. Ran out of time to make sure it doesn't leak, but I have a bunch of stuff to test next weekend anyways, and I need to pick up some ATF to top off what was lost. If all goes well, I should have the tag transferred and the current daily parked by the end of the month.

I took the fan and shroud off to do the last flare. I just put that fan on so I'm not sure why it fought so hard. But yeah, figured I'd update.
I cut it down where I did because the line had been kinked a little in addition to being torn in half up near the end. Where it was torn didn't have enough space to get the tool on it to flare either.

 

[tinman_72]

I like to apply a little heat to the end of the tubing before trying to flare. Makes the flaring process much easier and smoother.