Transmission won't shift gears

[MikeMurphyINC]

First of all let me say Thanks in Advance to everyone that'll be helping me. I am new to this site and believe I'm posting to the Transmission portion of the forum. I would also like to mention that I am mechanically inclined and would like to do the repairs myself, if possible, because I'm saving money for an engagement ring

I have an Automatic '91 ford explorer. My tranny was shifting smoothly and then just gave out one day. The fluid looks good.

I was doing some "muddin" and drove on a slight tilt and all of the sudden it wouldn't go. The engine still ran but it wouldn't go anymore. I had my friend pull me home.

I spoke to a mechanic and from what I remember he said to shift through the gears and if I didn't have to pull back on the shifter to change then it would be the transfer case. He also said that if I did still have to pull back on the shifter to change gears then it would be the transmission.

I tried and I still have to pull back on the shifter but it seems to not engage. I used to be able to tell when I was changing from Park to Reverse and then into drive.

I talked to another shop and they said that it might be something as little as a solenoid.

Any help and ideas on things to try and getting me pointed in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wood1]

Welcome to the forum. I suggest you do a search. Check your fluid level at idle in park. Also is there a possibility that the linkage is damaged where it connects to the transmission? If your linkage is OK and the lever on the side of the transmission is moving, the problem may be internal or the transfer case.

Have a look and then come back and ask away. Lots of helpful folks are willing to give you a hand.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Your 91 A4LD doesn't rely on solenoids for regular functions, only for overdrive, and for torque converter clutch engagement. It could be low on fluid, or linkage related as previously suggested. If these things check out OK, then the next step would be to check the Z link inside of the transmission. You will see this when you drop the pan. Hopefully you won't see any broken parts in the pan. If I'm reading this correctly, you have no drive or reverse. Is this correct? How many miles do you have? A 0-300 PSI pressure gauge would be helpful to use before you drop the pan. The 1/8" port is located on the driver's side just rear of the shift linkage.

 

[MikeMurphyINC]

What does the linkage look like to the transmission and how do I know if it's good/test it?

There are no forward or reverse working gears.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Do you see your back up lights turn on when you put it into reverse? Is the shift selector pointing to the R in this position?

 

[MikeMurphyINC]

I will check later tonight. I'm at work right now

 

[MikeMurphyINC]

It has a little over 150,000 miles and is 4wd

 

[BrooklynBay]

Another thing to check is if it got completely disconnected. Your shift selector will feel loose. Since automatic transmissions rely on hydraulic fluid to change gears, a transmission which is really low on fluid won't shift.

 

[MikeMurphyINC]

A 0-300 PSI pressure gauge would be helpful to use before you drop the pan. The 1/8" port is located on the driver's side just rear of the shift linkage.

So I hook a pressure gauge to the port and start up the car? or? More details on this procedure and what clues it gives me. TIA Is it a tool you can "rent" from AutoZone?

 

[MikeMurphyINC]

...If these things check out OK, then the next step would be to check the Z link inside of the transmission. You will see this when you drop the pan. Hopefully you won't see any broken parts in the pan.

What is the Z-link supposed to look like/do? I will be doing all these things in about an hour.

Thanks everybody a LOT

 

[MikeMurphyINC]

I checked the fluid at idle in park and looks like there is way to much in there! Could that cause a problem?

The linkage to the transmission seems to be functioning properly. The reverse lights come on when I put it in Reverse and the bar moves on the tranny.

I didn't drop the pan yet.

 

[wood1]

I would either check the control pressure, or at least pull one of the cooler lines off to check that there is flow at idle. A high fluid level may mean that the pump is not turning and the fluid that would normally be up in the transmission body and valve body is in the pan. If the fluid is the same level with the engine off as with the engine running I would suspect the pump.

But, it could mean that somone overfilled it in the past too. Overfilling isn't a major problem, underfilling can be though. Were you beating on it when you had the failure?

 

[MikeMurphyINC]

I would either check the control pressure, or at least pull one of the cooler lines off to check that there is flow at idle. A high fluid level may mean that the pump is not turning and the fluid that would normally be up in the transmission body and valve body is in the pan. If the fluid is the same level with the engine off as with the engine running I would suspect the pump.

But, it could mean that somone overfilled it in the past too. Overfilling isn't a major problem, underfilling can be though. Were you beating on it when you had the failure?

I will check to see if the fluid level is the same when it is cold as at idle. And I'll check to make sure there is flow at idle and let out the extra fluid while I'm at it. After checking it last night I noticed that the fluid was pretty dark so it is probably due for a change anyway.

I was offroading when I had the failure. I wasn't even accelerating when it happened, just all of the sudden the engine would rev up but not go.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I have links in my list of useful threads on the Z link, and on how to check pressure. Check # 10, and # 31.