Solved Trying to Piece a 4.0 L Engine Back Together

[DSteele41]

Good Morning Guys / (Ladies If Present)

I'm in process of replacing engine in 2003 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L XLT and I am trying to figure out where a Sensor Plugs in at.

To Describe:
The Sensor Comes off the Main (Big) Wiring Harness that comes out from the Fire Wall.
This particular sensor comes off the Left Side of Engine (If Facing Truck from the Front)
You have the sensors that plug into the 3 fuel injectors and then it T's off and one sensor goes to the Crank Shaft Position Sensor ( I believe this is Correct)

The Female End Sensor I'm Referring to is the the Second part of T and extends longer than the one that goes to Crank Shaft Sensor.

See Attached Pics for a Visual

Sensor_Pic_1 is where the Harness T's and the Right Line (Black) is the 1 that goes to the Crank Shaft Position Sensor

Sensor_Pic_2 is my Question ? It is on the Left Line (Red) and the Pic is the end of the Connector

If you need more info please let me know. as well as any other things that may help me Piece this Engine Back Together.

Thanks,

DSteele

 

[DSteele41]

6pinSocket+4WireHarness is to the MassAirFlow\MAF Sensor, mounted between the AirIntake FilterBox & AccordianTube.
This & the RightValveCoverSuctionTube is about the first things disconnected & last things reconnected, when working on the V6~4.0L~SOHC.
View attachment 323808

@DILLARD000
Oh Wow... I was thinking it went some where down below because of how far it extends/ how long it is.
Duh....on me.... MAF Sensor on Intake....

Thank You Thank You !!

 

[DSteele41]

6pinSocket+4WireHarness is to the MassAirFlow\MAF Sensor, mounted between the AirIntake FilterBox & AccordianTube.
This & the RightValveCoverSuctionTube is about the first things disconnected & last things reconnected, when working on the V6~4.0L~SOHC.
View attachment 323808

@DILLARD000

Have a Few More Questions

Questions: Relating to Pics 1-4

Where Does the Connection Go in Pic_1 ?

It comes off same wiring Harness as the Alternator Connections Pics 2 & 3
(You can See the Yellow Connection in Pic_2)

In Pic 4 where do you attach that to ?
I'm guessing to keep it from getting caught up by Serpentine Belt

Also does that Harness Run over the top of Air Compressor Housing and under Throttle Body Intake ?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Questions: Relating to Pics 5-9

In Pic 5 Trying to Figure out the 2 smaller Connections of the 3 (The middle evidently goes to Middle Male End of what ever that is called lol)

but I'm guessing the lower Connection comes from Pic 6 ?

and the upper Connection is Right from Pic 7

In Pic 8 and 9 Trying to figure out what the Female J Hose plugs into on the Drivers Side of Engine Bay


Hope my question are clear if not let me know

Thank You Again

DSteele

 

[DSteele41]

"...Pic 5 ...Pic6 ...Pic7"
This is the PCV CoolantLoop which I refered to above, an assembly of 3 smaller 3/16"ID CoolantHoses.
It a sidestream of the larger HeaterCore CoolantLoop
connects to a metal T fitting in the HeaterCore CoolantLoop next to right ValveCover.
then to the PCV CoolantLoopHeatExchanger on the right of the INtakeManifold throat,
then back & around the back of the engine to the PCV Valve CoolantOxbow,
then running right on the back of the engine to a plastic T fitting in the other HeaterCore hose near the FireWall.

My opinion of this PCV CoolantLoop is that it's a "Rub Goldberg" design,
not providing any real startup warming of condensed PCV gases, considering the Coolant is also cold at StartUp,
Also considering these items have been a source of several Coolant leaks,
when I last replaced all of my coolant hoses, I deleted the PCV CoolantLoop & associated HeaterCore CoolantLoop T fittings.
Ford has since replaced PCV CoolantLoops with PCV ElectricHeaters that begin warming immediately at cold startups.

PCV Valve installed with CoolantLoop Oxbow+Hoses deleted.
View attachment 323876

PCV CoolantLoopHeatExchanger with CoolantLoop barbs ground off & filled with JBWeld.
View attachment 323877
View attachment 323878
View attachment 323879

@DILLARD000
"
Ok, one connection at a time, otherwise we'll both get confused.
~ Take a deep breath & take your time; fast work does NOT equal reliable results.
~ Inspect each hose\harness\plug\socket for damage as you work; repair\replace as needed.
"

In Regards I am Inspecting Each Hose/ Harness / Plug and Making sure Not Cracking or Damaged and Cleaning them as Best Possible
And Copy 1 thing at a Time .... You Read me Perfectly.... I tend to Build Rome in 1 Day LOL

and for now those are the 2 Places I was Lost... and "Pitch Fork" is a Better Description than "The Touch Down Piece" LOL

I'm Slowly going through your Reply to get it Right... I will definitely let you know Results
and I'm sure there will be more Questions

I Can Not Thank You Enough

DSteele

"Where Does the Connection Go in Pic_1 ?"
Unsure; could be CrankPositionSensor to the right of the CrankShaftPulley & WaterPump,
or AirConCompressorClutch or OilPressureSwitch near left front corner of engine?
Do not route any harness or hoses thru the serpentine belt & keep them clear of the radiator fan & pulleys.

@DILLARD000


The Sensor I was looking for was the Oil Pressure Switch/ Sensor (Pic_10) ......(Bought and got it secured)
This is from Pic 1 where I was looking for where the Connection Went.

So this is solved.

 

[DSteele41]

"..Alternator Connections Pics 2 & 3 ...Pic 4 where do you attach that to ?''
The Alternator Harness originally routed
up behind the PowerSteeringPump bracket
over the TStatHousing & under the IntakeManifold throat,
with the anchor in Pic4 attached to the Alternator bracket
then to the Alternator MainPowerTerminal with RubberBoot cover & Alternator RegulatorPlug.
Alternator harness looks rough, so inspect\repair & wrap with Scotch33+ZipTies as needed;
shorting these wires to frame makes exciting fireworks but expensive damage.
Again, do not route any thing thru\near the belts\pulleys\fan.

Got This Re-Routed Up Behind Power Steering Pump Bracket

So This is Solved.

 

[DSteele41]

Ok, one connection at a time, otherwise we'll both get confused.
~ Take a deep breath & take your time; fast work does NOT equal reliable results.
~ Inspect each hose\harness\plug\socket for damage as you work; repair\replace as needed.

Your last question:
"...Pic 7 ...Pic 8 and 9 ...what the Female J Hose plugs into on the Drivers Side of Engine Bay"
This is the PositiveCaseVent Tube+Hose assembly:
~ one end connects to a small CoolantLoopExchanger (looks like a PitchFork) on right side of IntakeManifold throat., above the TStatHousing.
~ other end connects to PCV Valve in rear end of left ValveCover next to the FireWall.
~ this plastic 1/4Turn PCV Valve has a small CoolantLoop "OxBow" around it's neck.
Carefully remove\replace the PCV Valve, plastic tabs tend to break in the ValveCover; also a good time to clean\replace the PCV Valve.
The smaller PCV CoolantLoop is hosed up & operates in parallel with the larger HeaterCore CoolantLoop.
Look close at the old rubber\plastic hoses\tubes\fittings for cracks\leaks; replace\repair as needed.
Also reconnect\replace the VacuumTube from the right side of right ValveCover to the AirIntake AccordianTube;
this is also part of the PCV system, but does not have a PCV Valve, just a simple suction\vacuum tube.

PCV Tube+Hose Assembly from rear of LeftValveCover to right side of IntakeManifold throat.
View attachment 323871

PCV Valve With CoolantLoopOxBow
View attachment 323872

PCV Valve installed with CoolantLoop attached.
View attachment 323873

PCV CoolantLoopHeatExchanger on right side of IntakeManifold throat.
View attachment 323874

PCV RightValveCover SuctionTube
View attachment 323875

Bought PCV Valve and got the 3 Hoses off the Pitchfork Routed
(But the PCV Valve Plastic....is there an Upgraded one that is Aluminum or Metal ?)

Also is there a Good Solution for an Upgraded PCV Valve with an OCC (Oil Catch Can) ?

Here are the Pics from this being Solved. (Pic_5, Pic_6, Pic_7, and Pic_13)

 

[DSteele41]

Ok ... Now for New Questions Regarding the Transmission Lines being Routed and the Auxillary Cooler Hoses

Pic_14 I know that Line runs from the Lower Radiator Connection to the Auxillary Cooler

Question:
But Does it Go into the Left or Right Hose of Cooler ?

Pic _15 shows the 2 hoses coming off Cooler from underneath looking from under Drivers side of Truck.
Pic_18 is 1 of the 2 Transmission Cooler Lines going to the Top Connection on Radiator

Question:

Which Opening on the Transmission Does Pic_18 Connect to; The Top or Bottom ?
Pic_19 You Can see I have 1 of the Lines Connected to the Top

Or a Better Question Maybe: Where does the Line coming off the Auxillary Cooler go ?
The top or bottom opening on Transmission ?
and does that Line go into the Left or Right Hose coming off Auxillary Cooler (Again Pic_15)


I could not get the Lines (Lower Radiator Line & Line coming off Auxillary ) Routed Back to the Transmission

Question:

What is the Best way to Route those Lines

I have pics from a Ford Explorer from a Local Salvage Yard I was trying to go off of
Pic_21, 22, & 23)

 

[DSteele41]

"...Pic 5 ...Pic6 ...Pic7"
This is the PCV CoolantLoop which I refered to above, an assembly of 3 smaller 3/16"ID CoolantHoses.
It's a sidestream of the larger HeaterCore CoolantLoop
connects to a metal T fitting in the HeaterCore CoolantLoop next to right ValveCover.
then to the PCV CoolantLoopHeatExchanger on the right of the INtakeManifold throat,
then back & around the back of the engine to the PCV Valve CoolantOxbow,
then running right on the back of the engine to a plastic T fitting in the other HeaterCore hose near the FireWall.

My opinion of this PCV CoolantLoop is that it's a "Rub Goldberg" design,
not providing any real startup warming of condensed PCV gases, considering the Coolant is also cold at StartUp,
Also considering these items have been a source of several Coolant leaks,
when I last replaced all of my coolant hoses, I deleted the PCV CoolantLoop & associated HeaterCore CoolantLoop T fittings.
Ford has since replaced PCV CoolantLoops with PCV ElectricHeaters that begin warming immediately at cold startups.

PCV Valve installed with CoolantLoop Oxbow+Hoses deleted.
View attachment 323876

PCV CoolantLoopHeatExchanger with CoolantLoop barbs ground off & filled with JBWeld.
View attachment 323877
View attachment 323878
View attachment 323879

I also understand this now ..Thank You and deleting the unneccary hoses to the PitchFork

Questtion what did you use to Plug the 2 smaller lines of the Pitchfork or can you buy it already plugged ?
and
Also did you just get a New Hose for the Hose that T-s off the Hose from Firewall ?

Your Pic.... Pic_24 and Pic_12

 

[DSteele41]

I also understand this now ..Thank You and deleting the unneccary hoses to the PitchFork

Questtion what did you use to Plug the 2 smaller lines of the Pitchfork or can you buy it already plugged ?
and
Also did you just get a New Hose for the Hose that T-s off the Hose from Firewall ?

Your Pic.... Pic_24 and Pic_12

@dill

I also understand this now ..Thank You and deleting the unneccary hoses to the PitchFork

Questtion what did you use to Plug the 2 smaller lines of the Pitchfork or can you buy it already plugged ?
and
Also did you just get a New Hose for the Hose that T-s off the Hose from Firewall ?

Your Pic.... Pic_24 and Pic_12

@DILLARD000

Ok I'm on the Final Stretch

Everything On Engine is Done.

Today did Final Touches....

Transmission Cooler Lines Installed
Upper and Lower Radiator Cooling Hoses
Air Intake and Battery Tub installed

Now This I hope is the last Question
In Regards to Installing the Oil Dip Stick Tube that Runs to the Oil Pan (Pic_27)

Pic_25_edited & Pic_26 are the same Pics just took 2 of them

Pic_25_edited You Can see The Red Circle / Opening to the Oil Pan

The Problem: There is the Lip Right above the Opening that prevents the Oil Dipstick Tube from Going In the Opening
It's almost the the Tube would need to be cured around the Lip to get it in

To Explain a littler further if you were looking Straight Down to the Opening for Tube that Lip would be Directly Above it where you couldn't see the Opening.

Hope That Makes Sense

And Once Again I Can Not Thank You Enough

DSteele

 

[donalds]

Never had need to remove\install the Oil DipTube, so can't say for sure.
Suspect others in this forum have done so several times. It looks like a simple pressed in fit.
I'd first try a lite smear of RTV around the seal, then use an oversized hex socket to gently tap it in from the top.

Yep replace the o ring and a little bit of rtv good to go

 

[DSteele41]

The ATF lines on my 2001 V6~4.0L~SOHC & 5r55e Tranny were factory installed as follows
~ metal tubing from right side of Tranny LowerPortOutlet to top inlet on TransCooler\Heater in LeftRadiatorTank,
routed forward from the tranny right side, then left under the CrankShaftPulley+WaterPump, then up+forward to the Radiator left tank.
~ metal tubing from bottom outlet on TransCooler\Heater in LeftRadiatorTank back+down,
routed strapped to other metal line under CrankShaftPulley+WaterPump, then turns forward to hanger\clip near RadiatorDrain.
~ metal tubing from hanger near Radiator drain straight back to right side of Tranny UpperPortInlet.
~ ATF hose clamped to one of the two metal tubes near the RadiatorDrain, does NOT matter which, then forward+up to TransCooler behind grill.
~ ATF hose clamped to TransCooler behind grill, does matter which hose barb, routed down+back to other tube near Radiator drain.
Direction of ATF flow thru the RadiatorTransCooler\Heater or the GrillTransCooler does NOT matter.

Recommend giving your factory PlasticTanked Radiator a good inspection looking for cracks\leaks.

@DILLARD000
"Recommend giving your factory PlasticTanked Radiator a good inspection looking for cracks\leaks."

I missed the above....

I bought All New Accessories except for Starter
Water Pump
Alternator
AC Condensor
Radiator
Thermostat and Housing
New Exhaust Manifold Gaskets and Intake Mainfold Gaskets
Power Steering Pump
Exhaust Manifolds


Contemplating New CatBack Exhaust Any Suggestions ?

 

[DSteele41]

Yep replace the o ring and a little bit of rtv good to go

@donalds

I will get the O Ring and put RTV on it

The Problem is that there is a lip or Overhand Right Above the Hole / Opening where the Oil Dipstick Goes.

To Further Explain If you were Looking Straight Down to the Hole it would be Blocked by this Lip / Overhang of Metal on the Engine Block

If you look at Pic_25_edited The Red Line I drew is what blocks the dipstick from the opening hole

 

[DSteele41]

@DILLARD000
"Recommend giving your factory PlasticTanked Radiator a good inspection looking for cracks\leaks."

I missed the above....

I bought All New Accessories except for Starter
Water Pump
Alternator
AC Condensor
Radiator
Thermostat and Housing
New Exhaust Manifold Gaskets and Intake Mainfold Gaskets
Power Steering Pump
Exhaust Manifolds


Contemplating New CatBack Exhaust Any Suggestions ?

@donalds @DILLARD000

To Further explain its like the Dipstick would need to Curve Right Then Curve back Left and Down around the Black Lip / Overhang on engine Block

I attempted to draw it in Pic_25_Edited_2

 

[DSteele41]

Do you have the correct/original diptube?

@DILLARD000 ...Yes (See Pic) Its the one off OEM Motor....Again the New Motor is OEM Remanufactured from Fraser Engines

 

[DSteele41]

Never had need to remove\install the Oil DipTube, so can't say for sure.
Suspect others in this forum have done so several times. It looks like a simple pressed in fit.
I'd first try a lite smear of RTV around the seal, then use an oversized hex socket to gently tap it in from the top.

@DILLARD000 Thank You for Wiki Links those are very helpful for the future.
as I plan on keeping Truck forever

 

[DSteele41]

Here's a thread with a guy putting in custom exhaust, had to rebend the DipTube.

Headers 4.0 SOHC EGR too short! - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource

4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech - Headers 4.0 SOHC EGR too short! - I've installed pacesetter shorty's on my 02 xlt 4x4 4.0 sohc and the egr fitting placement was different than on the manifolds, so my egr is an inch or two too short! Has anyone else had this problem, if so how did you solve it? My...

www.ranger-forums.com

@DILLARD000 I just realized the Hole / Opening is Blocked .... My First Guess is it's supposed to be knocked out ?
....the Hole / Opening where the Dip Tube Goes

 

[DSteele41]

No you're trying to put the DipTube in the wrong hole,
see above pic of that new engine block, the filler\shipping bolt with the red oring, directly below the grease mark "009",
that's the DipTube hole; the one you've circled in red is too far back.

Wow.... Glad I didn't try to Tap It.... Thanks.... Final Step and I'll Post Pics /Videos

Thank You .... Thank You

 

[DSteele41]

No you're trying to put the DipTube in the wrong hole,
see above pic of that new engine block, the filler\shipping bolt with the red oring, directly below the grease mark "009",
that's the DipTube hole; the one you've circled in red is too far back.

@DILLARD000
Found It!

Pic_28

 

[donalds]

Nice new engine
Looks like mine

 

[donalds]

Can you bring that over to my place? I'll put that In my spare parts box!

That's the one I'm running now with 6 pounds of boost