Tuarus Electric Fan Setup, HEELLLLP !

[steve09812]

So ive searched and read and searched and I came up with a very budget friendly conversion, imo. I am on a very tight budget.

Its a 3.8l ford tuarus fan with very high cfm , and the controller is a Delta 2sp controller or a cheaper one thats reliable.

Link for controller

http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm#chc

or

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...e=1631&searchText=&brandName=Compressor+Works

or

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...e=1674&searchText=&brandName=Compressor+Works




link for fan

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LINC...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item414b06cdf0

So I wanna go with this setup becuase its very cheap

I can get the fan for $55 shipped or local scrapyard
The controller $79.99 or the autozone $17.99
For a total of $75 - $135, Alot cheaper than a black magic and expensive controller.

I not knowledged at all in the electircal department, and Need some advice , Input on what you guys think about this setup and If I need anything else.
So please feel free to comment and help me out .

Thanks in Advance

 

[Limited02]

I'm sure it will work and just follow the wiring diagrams, then you should be good. I did mine and it was easy. Good luck and let us know how it turns out

 

[steve09812]

Well my main concern is the fan is a 2speed, so I dont know how compatible these controllers are and if the will work with the a/c also ?

 

[Limited02]

The controller sounds like whatever temp you set it at, is when speed 1 kicks in. When it gets 10 degrees warmer, then speed two kicks in.

That's my problem with the Efan is that I have a cheap controller that only comes on when the temps reaches a certain point. So unless I am moving or the fan is moving, the AC doesn't work. I do need to upgrade the controller to make sure that the fan comes on when the AC does. You can get a cheaper fan controller from the auto part store for now until you decide to go bigger. I believe mine cost about 35 bucks.

 

[animex2]

Ha nice, I have a fan from a Taurus SHO in my garage, I can probably throw that in when I decide to get rid of the belt driven fan.

 

[steve09812]

Ha nice, I have a fan from a Taurus SHO in my garage, I can probably throw that in when I decide to get rid of the belt driven fan.

The sooner the better my friend,
I'll post pics and such when i get my car back and tackle this.

 

[lifeguard379]

the bottom links for the controllers i would stay away from. the frist i have used, and they would burn up in about 2 months. the third one im useing now, and will last about 6 months.( im on my third )
go with the first. it has an ac overide.
http://www.dccontrol.com/2sp.pdf

 

[steve09812]

the bottom links for the controllers i would stay away from. the frist i have used, and they would burn up in about 2 months. the third one im useing now, and will last about 6 months.( im on my third )
go with the first. it has an ac overide.
http://www.dccontrol.com/2sp.pdf

Thanks , testimonials are really helpful.

The dcc 2spd was what I was leaning towards the only thing that concerned me was the Temp. The low can be adjusted to kick on anywhere from 185 +/- 30 degrees, but the high is preset to kick on 10 degrees higher of whatever the low is set. I kinda wanted more of a 15 degrees gap.

Also the a/c triggers the low fan and I was under the impression the high should be on with the a/c .

I dunno

 

[animex2]

Well I drove a 3.8l Taurus for 3 years and actually traded it for my ex, so I can tell you, that thing moves air like noones job. especially when it gets to its 2nd speed. Just get the right controller and you will be set.

So I know removing the fan from the belt will let you run a smaller serp belt, and afiak it will increase power a small bit, but is there any known MPG gains by doing this?

 

[Maniak]

Personally, I like the PAC-2000 fan controller from Dokota digital.

You can set the low and high temp, turn the fan on with the a/c if you want, and it even has a cool down setting where it can run the fan for x minutes after the truck is off.

When we installed it in a friends truck we only installed it as a 1 speed (picked up the 1 speed fan, it was cheaper).. We set it so the a/c will turn on the fan BUT we added a switch to turn off the fan if he is driving on a long freeway drive. It is setup so if he forgets he turned off the fan and the engine gets up to the turn on temp it will still turn on the fan. The manual switch is setup on the a/c circuit only.

Here is the thread where we did the install.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219176&highlight=taurus+fan+f-150

As for MPG gain.. When the Electric Fan is running, its not gaining you much as your still converting mechanical energy into electrical energy to run the fan.
The gain comes from when the fan is not running. When the e-fan isn't on, you aren't taking any power from the engine to run the fan. When you have a mechanical fan, even with a fan clutch, you are still taking "some" power to turn the fan. For example, around here (southern Az) many people run the severe duty Hayden fan clutches. That fan IIRC runs at 30% shaft speed even when its disengaged and 90% when engaged. That means even when the motor is cool it is still pulling power from the engine.

~Mark

 

[animex2]

Personally, I like the PAC-2000 fan controller from Dokota digital.

You can set the low and high temp, turn the fan on with the a/c if you want, and it even has a cool down setting where it can run the fan for x minutes after the truck is off.

When we installed it in a friends truck we only installed it as a 1 speed (picked up the 1 speed fan, it was cheaper).. We set it so the a/c will turn on the fan BUT we added a switch to turn off the fan if he is driving on a long freeway drive. It is setup so if he forgets he turned off the fan and the engine gets up to the turn on temp it will still turn on the fan. The manual switch is setup on the a/c circuit only.

Here is the thread where we did the install.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219176&highlight=taurus+fan+f-150

As for MPG gain.. When the Electric Fan is running, its not gaining you much as your still converting mechanical energy into electrical energy to run the fan.
The gain comes from when the fan is not running. When the e-fan isn't on, you aren't taking any power from the engine to run the fan. When you have a mechanical fan, even with a fan clutch, you are still taking "some" power to turn the fan. For example, around here (southern Az) many people run the severe duty Hayden fan clutches. That fan IIRC runs at 30% shaft speed even when its disengaged and 90% when engaged. That means even when the motor is cool it is still pulling power from the engine.

~Mark

Never knew a e-fan used up mileage. Thought the alternator just threw out x ammount of power, and as long as you were sucking power within the range it threw out, no problems.

so with that logic, running a 800wrms sound system will lower your MPG by the power the engine has to create to run the amplifier?

 

[Maniak]

The alternator doesn't exactly "push" power to the battery.. The battery pulls power from the alternator up to the point the alternator isn't making enough power.

Soo, If you were pulling say 30 amps from the battery to run something whether it be a fan or an amplifier the battery would be trying to get that power back from the alternator. The alternator will try to supply that amount of amperage. The electrical field the alternator is generating puts a mechanical load on the engine which will lower the gas mileage.

There is no such thing as "Free energy", there is always a loss. If you are trying to take mechanical energy and then convert it to electrical energy and then convert it back to mechanical energy you are getting a loss there. (engine turning the alternator to charge the battery to power an electric motor which turns the fan blades).

BTW, IIRC (its been a while since I did much with car audio) an 800 watt amp is really only going to pull about 10 amps which is less than your headlights. So, running an 800 watt amp will lower you mileage just like running your headlights will BUT, it is so little of a load that its practically unmeasurable.

~Mark

 

[animex2]

The alternator doesn't exactly "push" power to the battery.. The battery pulls power from the alternator up to the point the alternator isn't making enough power.

Soo, If you were pulling say 30 amps from the battery to run something whether it be a fan or an amplifier the battery would be trying to get that power back from the alternator. The alternator will try to supply that amount of amperage. The electrical field the alternator is generating puts a mechanical load on the engine which will lower the gas mileage.

There is no such thing as "Free energy", there is always a loss. If you are trying to take mechanical energy and then convert it to electrical energy and then convert it back to mechanical energy you are getting a loss there. (engine turning the alternator to charge the battery to power an electric motor which turns the fan blades).

BTW, IIRC (its been a while since I did much with car audio) an 800 watt amp is really only going to pull about 10 amps which is less than your headlights. So, running an 800 watt amp will lower you mileage just like running your headlights will BUT, it is so little of a load that its practically unmeasurable.

~Mark

Makes sense, I just disagree with your car audio calculations, closer to 60-70 amps. Ive blown a 80 amp fuse before, and my system isnt even that good.

 

[dkchrist]

Never knew a e-fan used up mileage. Thought the alternator just threw out x ammount of power, and as long as you were sucking power within the range it threw out, no problems.

so with that logic, running a 800wrms sound system will lower your MPG by the power the engine has to create to run the amplifier?

Yes, your sound system will sap MPGs. The alternator puts out more amps as it is needed. It can only put out a maximum amperage at a certain RPM.

 

[Maniak]

whoops.. I missed a 0 in my calculations.. 800 watt amp at 80% efficiency would be about 80 amps.. (I think.. I haven't finished my coffee).

~Mark

 

[steve09812]

Personally, I like the PAC-2000 fan controller from Dokota digital.

and it even has a cool down setting where it can run the fan for x minutes after the truck is off.

~Mark

Thats a good point, most cars have that, the fan running for a minute ot 2 after u park it , Thats definetly an added benefit,

Thanks, for posting

 

[lifeguard379]

i like how my heater gets warm faster with the e fan.

 

[steve09812]

i like how my heater gets warm faster with the e fan.

Yeah, and thats another benefit, I do cold starts some times, and take forever . Here in Jersey winters can be harsh, though my oem add-on remote starter should be here friday, that'll help.

 

[Limited02]

i like how my heater gets warm faster with the e fan.

It was 27 degrees today and I was nice and toasty!!! Being that my girl and I bought a house a few months ago, we now have a garage so the cars are already kind of warm in the morning And the good thing about winter is that the fan will almost never run!

 

[Rofocowboy84]

The alternator doesn't exactly "push" power to the battery.. The battery pulls power from the alternator up to the point the alternator isn't making enough power.

Soo, If you were pulling say 30 amps from the battery to run something whether it be a fan or an amplifier the battery would be trying to get that power back from the alternator. The alternator will try to supply that amount of amperage. The electrical field the alternator is generating puts a mechanical load on the engine which will lower the gas mileage.

There is no such thing as "Free energy", there is always a loss. If you are trying to take mechanical energy and then convert it to electrical energy and then convert it back to mechanical energy you are getting a loss there. (engine turning the alternator to charge the battery to power an electric motor which turns the fan blades).

BTW, IIRC (its been a while since I did much with car audio) an 800 watt amp is really only going to pull about 10 amps which is less than your headlights. So, running an 800 watt amp will lower you mileage just like running your headlights will BUT, it is so little of a load that its practically unmeasurable.

~Mark

Slap me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the alternator always put out the same energy per RPM no matter what? The belt is controlled by the crankshaft, which is controlled by engine speed, not performance needs of the alternator, correct? Therefore, it would seem to me that no matter how many power hungry things you have running, it won't affect the parasitic drain of the alternator, because that is a constant. So, if you're pulling more juice than the alternator can produce, the MPGs will stay the same, but you'll just drain your battery.