Twin-stick Transfer Case Options for a Second Gen | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Twin-stick Transfer Case Options for a Second Gen

97XEB

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City, State
,NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 EB
All,

I've got a '97EB with 87K miles and think my t-case motor has finally **** the bed. Rather than spend $300-650 to fix something I don't like and that doesn't perform all that well to begin with, I want to upgrade to a better, twin-stick t-case.

I know the Atlas II is a direct bolt-on for the second gen - thanks to people like Ray, Jefe and many others - but I'm not sure I wanna drop $1500 on one. And if I do, I'd rather have a dual setup / doubler that will offer more gearing options.

I'm considering one, maybe even doubled, of the following...

1. NP205 - indestructible, but very heavy, doesn't have that low of a low and no off-the-shelf twin-stick kit available.

2. Dana 300 - twin-stick kits and low gears avail.

3. Dana 20 - twin-stick kits avail, but low not that low.

4. NP231

5. NP241

6. Toyota / Marlin Crawler / etc. - many aftermarket upgrades avail.

I know everyone will have an opinion, and those are certainly welcome, but does anyone have any actual, hands-on experience trying to put one of the above in a second gen X? What will / won't fit. Does anyone make the appropriate adapters?

Thanks.
 



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1st, for anything besides stock you're going to need to budget $200-500 for lengthening/shortening or building new driveshafts.

For the Atlas, unless you're getting a whale of a deal, I'd say more like $2000 w/ shipping and accesories. (for the 3.8)

I'm pretty sure AA makes an adaptor to the standard 6 bolt pattern, but once you get the adapter, and then t-case in there you're going to have to deal with clearance issues with the gas tank. . . and dont even think about a doubler till you've moved the gas tank.

Also, with the D300, you'd have to run a flip kit on it. And with rebuilt case + flip kit + low gears + twin stick you mine as well go with the Atlas.
 






Jefe,

Thanks for the reply - that's exactly the type of feedback I wanted. You bring up great points about the gas tank and driveshafts, etc.

PS: Your X is inspiration - I love what you've done. Can you remind me why you went with the 3.8 Vs. the 4.1 - the auto trans, cost, both, etc? Do you have pics of the interior with the twin-sticks coming through the floor?

Thanks.
 






There was the concern with the Auto trans overpowering the braking with the 4.3. After talking with Ray Lobato (after it had already arrived) though he thought that the 4.3 would work, and I agree. And the other problem was the $500 price increase.

I really have no problem with the 3.8 though. For almost everything I do it is fine. Plus i'd be worried about top speed in Low w/ the 4.3. Right now 1st + hi takes over right where 4th (1:1) + low leaves off. I already switch from low to hi and back again enough. I'd hate to have to do it even more.

Shifter: (Note that this is w/ the 3" BL and the seat all the way forward. It doesn't look quite so pretty anymore.)

Atlas-knob.jpg
 






Jefe,

Was it really a direct bolt-in? Were any drive-shaft and/or other drive-line mods required? Do you have a current pic of the twin-sticks?

I'm still waiting to hear if my shift motor is really shot, but assuming so, my options are repair it or go Atlas II. While expensive, this is certainly as good an excuse as I'm gonna get...

Thanks again for the pics and all the info!!
 






Originally posted by 97XEB
Jefe,

Was it really a direct bolt-in? Were any drive-shaft and/or other drive-line mods required? Do you have a current pic of the twin-sticks?

I'm still waiting to hear if my shift motor is really shot, but assuming so, my options are repair it or go Atlas II. While expensive, this is certainly as good an excuse as I'm gonna get...

Thanks again for the pics and all the info!!
The T-case itself is a direct bolt in. Take the old case out, put some RTV on the seal, and bolt the Atlas in.

Both driveshafts DO need to be modified at the least (front shortened and 1310 double cardan joint replacing the stock CV, rear lengthened). I chose to get new beefier shafts from Tom Woods ( www.4xshaft.com ). Cost me ~$500 for both. I should be able to dig up the lengths of the shafts I ordered if you want to go that route, so you're not out of business waiting for them. (I had to throw the Atlas in, measure for drive shafts, and then throw the stock case back in till the new shafts came)

The part I did have to modify was getting the shifters through the floor where I wanted them, without having to ditch the center console. I ended up getting longer connecting rods, and then carefully measuring where to cut the floor. The whole while I was fabing this up, I was able to drive the Rig though, as I had shifted it to 2 Hi before installing the T-case. I'll get pics of what it looks like currently. Its not as nice as if i had done it w/o the BL to begin with, but if it aint broke, don't fix it.
 






Here's the shift knobs now:

atlas-knob2.jpg


atlas-knob3.jpg


Oh, and like AA recommends, you may either need a 1+" BL, or to modify the body pan to clear the atlas. I obviously didn't need to modify anything when it was installed (with the 3" BL) but once I removed the BL it does knock the body under hard acceleration. Someday when the Atlas is out of the way (replacing Tranny, etc) I'll take a :hammer: to the body and all will be well.
 






Thanks for the pic Jefe! I thought for sure the full console was a gonner with the twin sticks. Nice to see that they will clear it!:bounce:

BTW: I dig the locker switch!!:D
 






Originally posted by Robb
Thanks for the pic Jefe! I thought for sure the full console was a gonner with the twin sticks. Nice to see that they will clear it!:bounce:

BTW: I dig the locker switch!!:D
No Prob

Note that w/o the BL they do hit my leg, but its not uncomfortable. . .well I guess I've gotten used to feeling the drivetrain vibration in my leg now :rolleyes:

As for the locker switch. One of the two white switches is designed for it, (and the other for the future rear selectable locker) but I haven't gotten around to it wiring it in yet. :eek:
 












Stupid Question

Twin stick? Does that allow you to independantly select the front/rear axle and go either HI/LO or some other configuration?

I plan to go manual but really like my 2LO right now.
 






tenikiwon said:
Twin stick? Does that allow you to independantly select the front/rear axle and go either HI/LO or some other configuration?

yes
 






Back to the orignal Questions now

The original question was about other, lower cost T-cases. Is what you're saying, "Yes, the T-case is cheaper, but the cost to modify everything else is more?"
 






I think so, but spending the dough on an Atlas doesn't bother me, but can you use a Dana 300 for cheaper?
 






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