Two Brake bleeding question. | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Two Brake bleeding question.

when i replaced my brake line i just gravity bled my system. but i also bypassed the ABS valve. but ive read on here from some other people that u dont always have to get a scanner to sequence the valves inside it to bleed it.

this most of the time works, but an abs bleed can help since air in the abs pump motor cannot be removed with a manual bleed.
 



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I talked to a Ford machenic today and he said that a faulty ABS pump is very rare. With everything done to the system, he feels the next best bet is the booster. He told me to run the truck for a minute and shut it of, disconnect the vacuum hose. If air sprays out then the booster is holding vacuum, if not, then the booster is leaking vacuum. I got almost nothing. I guess a new booster is on the agenda for the weekend.
 






Booster check valve

There should be a check valve between the vacuum line and the booster. If it sticks open or has a bad seal there will not be any vacuum in the booster when the engine is off. You may want to examine the check valve before replacing the booster.
 






I talked to a Ford machenic today and he said that a faulty ABS pump is very rare. With everything done to the system, he feels the next best bet is the booster. He told me to run the truck for a minute and shut it of, disconnect the vacuum hose. If air sprays out then the booster is holding vacuum, if not, then the booster is leaking vacuum. I got almost nothing. I guess a new booster is on the agenda for the weekend.

you did put the seal on the master where it meets the booster?

but this would give you a hard pedal not a soft pedal while driving. a brake booster gives assist or help pressing the brake down.

also you have a vacuum pump. use it on the booster does it hold vacuum?

last thing that little plug, is a check valve for the booster i would check that if the booster holds vacuum that piece is like 2-5 bux at any parts store i would change that first. tho i think you have dump valves open.
 






New Booster is in and the pedal still sinks to the floor when the truck is running. I got a vacuum reading fluctuating between 20 in and 22 in, that should be correct. I pulled the pads off the back calipers and both wheel cylinders are ###tional. I am going to do the fronts tomorrow and try and rebleed the master cylinder one more time. After that, all I have left is the ABS pump!? Anyone know what that is in the picture I posted?
 






New Booster is in and the pedal still sinks to the floor when the truck is running. I got a vacuum reading fluctuating between 20 in and 22 in, that should be correct. I pulled the pads off the back calipers and both wheel cylinders are ###tional. I am going to do the fronts tomorrow and try and rebleed the master cylinder one more time. After that, all I have left is the ABS pump!? Anyone know what that is in the picture I posted?

if anything a portion valve, should have zero impact to pedal pressure running.

did you try a manual bleed, dont get me wrong but i never trusted a mity vac to bleed brakes.

you could have a bad master, but, and do say this, if the original master and the replacement both act the same, its the hcu... and yes a master is 90 bux but a hcu about 1k maybe less now
 






if anything a portion valve, should have zero impact to pedal pressure running.

did you try a manual bleed, dont get me wrong but i never trusted a mity vac to bleed brakes.

you could have a bad master, but, and do say this, if the original master and the replacement both act the same, its the hcu... and yes a master is 90 bux but a hcu about 1k maybe less now

Its $220 at the following website ( http://www.aaaaautomotive.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/SFV/32785/vpid/7541988/vpcsid/0/rid/134382 ). I believe this is the right one. 1k is pretty much the value of my truck. It is just a winter beater. I guess it would probably be bye-bye for the ex if it is that expensive.

Since it is such an uncommon part to go bad, I would think a salvaged one SHOULD work fine. My only question that still remains is does the ABS module need to be scan bled when replaced and drained completely? I know on the 97's and newer, it does not when correcting a brake line but those are obvisouly two different tasks. If by manual bleed you mean pumping the break and simply opening the bleeder, then yes, I did. No spitting what-so-ever. On the backs, the fluid shot from one caliper to the opposite wheel.

Walsky, in post 24 you mentioned dumb valves. Are these in the ABS module?
 






Talked to a guy from Monroe today. He said that in order to get the ABS pump's valves to open, bleeding should be done with the key on but engine off. I never bled any of the components this way. Could this be why I am experiencing a presurized pedal when the truck is off but a dead pedal when the truck is on? Also, does anyone know if there is a bleeder located on the ABS module?
 






Its $220 at the following website ( http://www.aaaaautomotive.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/SFV/32785/vpid/7541988/vpcsid/0/rid/134382 ). I believe this is the right one. 1k is pretty much the value of my truck. It is just a winter beater. I guess it would probably be bye-bye for the ex if it is that expensive.

Since it is such an uncommon part to go bad, I would think a salvaged one SHOULD work fine. My only question that still remains is does the ABS module need to be scan bled when replaced and drained completely? I know on the 97's and newer, it does not when correcting a brake line but those are obvisouly two different tasks. If by manual bleed you mean pumping the break and simply opening the bleeder, then yes, I did. No spitting what-so-ever. On the backs, the fluid shot from one caliper to the opposite wheel.

Walsky, in post 24 you mentioned dumb valves. Are these in the ABS module?


dump valves are in the hcu or the pump motor, the whole abs system is consisted of 2 parts an ecu and a hcu the ecu is the brain bolted on with 4 bolts. the hcu is the hydraulic unit (pump motor and all valves) some cars they are not matched one on top of each other. in any case, the pump motor is what is most likely busted internally.

abs bleeds using a scan tool really do help the pedal. since the unit has to bleed internally to remove air from valves. it actuates 2 valves per wheel to give that pedal pulsation.

as for the price mileage may vary i seen them from 400 bux for some cars to over 7k for a hybrid. mind you also it also matters if you can separate the 2 units. and i know ball park figures working in a dealership.

as for salvage yard, possible it would still require an abs bleed.
 






dump valves are in the hcu or the pump motor, the whole abs system is consisted of 2 parts an ecu and a hcu the ecu is the brain bolted on with 4 bolts. the hcu is the hydraulic unit (pump motor and all valves) some cars they are not matched one on top of each other. in any case, the pump motor is what is most likely busted internally.

abs bleeds using a scan tool really do help the pedal. since the unit has to bleed internally to remove air from valves. it actuates 2 valves per wheel to give that pedal pulsation.

as for the price mileage may vary i seen them from 400 bux for some cars to over 7k for a hybrid. mind you also it also matters if you can separate the 2 units. and i know ball park figures working in a dealership.

as for salvage yard, possible it would still require an abs bleed.

Ok, I see. Where the break lines go into, from the master cylinder, is that the HCU? Sorry I am asking so many question but I do not know that much about ABS systems.
 






Ok, I see. Where the break lines go into, from the master cylinder, is that the HCU? Sorry I am asking so many question but I do not know that much about ABS systems.

yeh the hcu is where the 2 master cylinder lines go in to and 4 lines to the wheels come out.

the ecu would be the electrical module on top of the hcu thats bolted with 4 torx socket on top of it. (should be torx for that year)
 






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