U joints??

[yyc_tbird_sc]

Hey guys, I'm hoping you can help me out a little bit. Ever since I bought this explorer it's had a harshness to it while accelerating and also while driving it. In the last couple days it's also sounded like there's someone banging a hammer under the hood while I'm driving....only under light acceleration and right around 80kph.

After talking with some local suspension guys here in calgary...I'm pretty sure it's bad u-joints. I'm going to take and replace them all while I'm at it, but my question is this: can the ones for the Dana 35 be replaced without pulling the hubs and everything off? Also, if I have to pull the hubs apart, what kind of special tools will I need?

One more thing, does Warn or anyone else still make a manual hub conversion for our trucks? Thanks in advance guys!

 

[big_hoovie]

I'm not sure about everything else, but you can get conversion kits and manual hubs made by warn, mile marker, superwinch, and I'm sure others.

gl

 

[yyc_tbird_sc]

thanks....I'll look around here locally to see if I can get the manual hubs. Does anyone know if I can do the u-joints on the front axle without taking the hubs all apart?

 

[MrShorty]

I would say no, because those outer wheel joints are tucked up inside the beam. It would be awful difficult to get whatever in there and press/hammer the joints out. If it is possible, I expect it's a lot more difficult to try to change them in place that it is to remove everything and pull the axleshafts out.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

To get the front axels out, you have to take the spindle off the knuckle.

To do that, you have to remove the calpiers and the disc. That will let you pull the stub shafts out, but there is still an axel that is C clipped to the pumpkin, so you'll have to tear that apart too.

But,,,, it sounds more like drive shaft U joints. Your '92 isn't AWD and you shouldn't be driving around in 4hi on high traction surfaces like pavement, even wet pavement.

There are 2 different U joints on and X. Spicer 297 and 760 for the front axels (3 of them) and Spicer 153 for the drivelines, both front (3 of them)and rear (2 of them)


There are part numbers for diffferent manufacturers in this thread; http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134134.

You will probably have to go to a driveline shop to get Spicers and expect to pay about $25 ea. but many swear Spicers are the best available.

 

[yyc_tbird_sc]

That's some awesome info....thanks.

I haven't been using the 4wd, as the weather is way too nice and I've been working too much to get some time to go plowing through the fields around here. I am gonna pick up the spicers, as they're the only u-joint that I've never really heard to have a problem.

We'll see how much time I have this week to take and finish off all the u-joints and while I'm at it, I'll probably take and check all the wheel bearings while I'm at it.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

There are seals on the axel shaft #18844 and in the spindle #13144 and some needle bearings in there too #B2110. You'll have to take things that far apart to get the front axels out, so look at the bearings in the spindle they support the stub shaft.

I had a hard time getting the right seals. They kept giving me axel seals for the pumpkin, not the spindle.

This will not be a quick job, especially the U joints, unless you have a press.

Good luck

 

[Tony H]

http://4x4cyberstore.com/website/warn_hub_ford.html

If you are getting the clunking while in 2WD it's not the 'U' joints in the Axles.

I can't imagine you could possibly Replace those joints with the Shafts intacked.

The only special tool would be a Slide Hammer and Spindle puller Socket.
http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=240


The passenger side axle slides out after removing the 'hose clamp' from one side of the Rubber boot. The Drivers side I understand there is a 'C' clip in the Pumpkin ( never had to pull that side).