Uhg, motor swap help..

[zerodevil]

ok so im coming up on week 2 of my motor swap(taking so long because ive never done this before...and im doing it a couple hours at a time after i get off from work)...im replacing my 4.6L 2v with a newer 4.6L 2v...and im at the point where i have the new engine back in the bay and resecured the the engine mounts...but i am having THEE hardest time re-aligning the torque converter and the drive plate as well as even moving the transmission forward to engage with the two pins on the back of the motor...anyone who has done this before give me some help?

 

[rocket2ya]

if your torque converter is in all the way then it shouldnt spin so then just turn the crank till the holes line up thats what i did. easier if you do it before engine mounts too.

 

[zerodevil]

alright, im not sure if im having a problem here or what but i am unable to engage the torque converter or if it is already engaged but still rotating. im pushing towards the rear of the vehicle, and rotating clockwise with all ive got, and other than spinning, im not able to move it towards the trans-axle at all...am i doing somthing wrong? or can it be engaged and still rotate? if its not engaged will it engaged itself later?

a quick response would be most helpfull, im currently under the truck and just out of ideas here, thanks guys.

Jared.

 

[Limited02]

Hmmmm, if you didn't do anything to the torque converter when you took the old engine out, then you shouldn't have to move it anywhere. But I would suggest loosening the engine mounts and tranny mounts to get some play. I wish I could be there because I could be of better help.

It just doesn't make much sense if the motor is secured and you never removed the tranny, that it should be right up against the flywheel/torque converter waiting to be lined up with the pins on the motor and threads on the torque converter. I'll stop talking and wait to hear what you have found out.

 

[zerodevil]

i have the tranny and torque converter lined back up and re attached to the engine, but im still unsure if i engaged the torque converter, i was unable to get it to clunk and seat in with the pump gear(no mater what i did it kept rotating)...will it seat itself or am i going to have to pull it back out and re-try?

 

[Limited02]

Crap, I am not sure but I thought you were supposed to rotate the torque converter until it "backed" into place. I don't know if you should be able to spin it when it finally "locks" into place but hopefully someone will have a better understanding. I put a new torque converter in my C4 but that was 6 years ago

 

[Limited02]

This may be helpful?
http://www.partshp.com/ConverterInstructions.htm
And a video-
http://www.expertvillage.com/video/58677_chevy-engine-install-torque-converter.htm

I know it's a chevy but still....

 

[zerodevil]

in the movie, he was still able to rotate the torque converter..so i think im ok(seeing as how i was pushing back with all i had and couldnt get it to budge, while rotating) and that my torque converter is still in position...but i guess ill find out when i start it up and try and drive it...ill have the rest of the truck back togeather enough to start it up tomorrow...thanks for the help guys, and especialy the links limited.

 

[Limited02]

No problem and good luck!!!!

 

[Curtis]

I think the key is... when the motor and trans are back together, you should have to pull the torque converter ahead to meet the flywheel just a little bit.

If its tight, or you cant turn the flywheel to line up the bolts to the converter something is wrong...

I learned this the hard way on my 72 Buick. When I put the motor/trans back together, I had a real difficult time holding the converter and turning the flywheel to line up the bolts. Got it done though. 3 miles later, I was out a trans front pump..

Took the trans back out, a friend of mine rebuilt it and when he brought it back he set the converter in for me and I saw it "clunk" into place. We bolted a piece of metal across the front to keep it in place until I got it under the car ready to bolt to the engine. Once I got the trans bolted, I saw my previous problem. The converter was about 1/4 inch from the flywheel. and I could easily turn the flywheel to line up the bolts.

I know I know.. there are probably differences between a 70's GM and your explorer, but I just wouldn't want the same to happen to you.

 

[ummduh]

Putting a ford engine/trans back together sucks. The studs on the TQ are a horrible idea.

Anyways, all you can really do is pull the transmission backwards and try to eyeball where the studs are and try to match it up with the flexplate on the engine.

The TQ will drop into place while you turn and push. There is usually 3 drops, sometimes the first is difficult to tell. But yea the previous poster stated that you should have to pull the TQ toward the engine as you tighten the nuts is correct. (only moves a little bit)

The TQ will still turn after it has been seated all the way in. Quite effortlessly, actually. Which of course makes it all the more difficult to line it up to the flexplate. Have I mentioned I hate doing Ford auto transmissions?!??

I've always been fine going with trying to get my finger behind the TQ. If it is seated all the way I can't get my finger behind it even a little bit.

 

[zerodevil]

im currently %90 done with my engine swap. I am also 95% certain that my torque converter is seated properly...as it is just about 1/4 from the driveplate...im going to use the TQ stud bolts to pull it the rest of the way...all i have to do is get my radiator back in, get some fluids in her, re-connect the front drive shaft, and rebolt my exhaust up and im good to start her...im going to take some video of the first start up...wether it be good or bad. thanks for the info! i was pretty sure my torque converter was ok because i didnt tamper with it, and it was never in a front-down attitude.

 

[Curtis]

im currently %90 done with my engine swap. I am also 95% certain that my torque converter is seated properly...as it is just about 1/4 from the driveplate...im going to use the TQ stud bolts to pull it the rest of the way...all i have to do is get my radiator back in, get some fluids in her, re-connect the front drive shaft, and rebolt my exhaust up and im good to start her...im going to take some video of the first start up...wether it be good or bad. thanks for the info! i was pretty sure my torque converter was ok because i didnt tamper with it, and it was never in a front-down attitude.

That sounds good to me too... If you had to pull the coverter forward to meet the engine after they trans and engine were bolted I think you're golden...

 

[zerodevil]

WOW, ok first off here is hte first start up

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6s8eYzGTzI

now ive got some problems lol...i ran 13...yes i said 13 OBB2 codes, all dealing with the transmission(other than 1601)...

here they are..
P-0713 trans fluid temp sensor high
P-0740 torque conveter related
P-0743 Torque converter electric related
p-0750 Shift sylanoid A malf
p-0753 Shift sylanoid malf
p-0755 Shift sylanoid b malf
P-0758 Shift sylanoid malf
p-0760 Shift sylanoid c malf
p-0763 Shift sylanoid malf
p-0796 Transmission system concern
p-1788 Transmission system problems

any ideas? The only thing i can think of is low transmission fluid levels...

 

[Curtis]

WOW, ok first off here is hte first start up

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6s8eYzGTzI

now ive got some problems lol...i ran 13...yes i said 13 OBB2 codes, all dealing with the transmission(other than 1601)...

here they are..
P-0713 trans fluid temp sensor high
P-0740 torque conveter related
P-0743 Torque converter electric related
p-0750 Shift sylanoid A malf
p-0753 Shift sylanoid malf
p-0755 Shift sylanoid b malf
P-0758 Shift sylanoid malf
p-0760 Shift sylanoid c malf
p-0763 Shift sylanoid malf
p-0796 Transmission system concern
p-1788 Transmission system problems

any ideas? The only thing i can think of is low transmission fluid levels...

Start with the easiest... top up the trans fluid, warm it up, shift through the gears and check it again.
Reset the codes and check again. Fingers crossed you wont get them again.

Good job man... You certainly have more guts than I do.... When I had the engine out of my Buick... there was only a few wires to remember...

 

[ummduh]

I'd check the wire harness and make sure you didn't pinch/disconnect anything.

My old ranger would throw random codes, the p/o had a trans repaired and there was a harness pinched in between the engine and bellhousing.

 

[zerodevil]

i installed the motor w/o the manifold (For easy access to the top two bolts on the bell housing)...there are no wires caught or pinched, and i double checked the connections today...all check out...im pretty sure its fluid related...im having it towed to a trans shop owned by a buddy of mine tomorrow, im not willing to risk ruining it.

thanks for the idea though, i actualy had a close call with this when i was lining them up, caught it before i connected them.