Upper control Arms and Hub Bearing Help

[DreamCar]

So I have a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT 6 Cylinder.. I took it off the road for 1 1/2 years and have recently just registered it again after replacing a rear end.

My thing is... When it was on the road the Control Arms and Hub Bearings constantly needed replacement (like once a year).. Out of nowhere the truck needs them again.

So, my question is does anyone know good, reliable replacements i can buy?

 

[drdoom]

Members here recommend SKF brand hubs.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

what was the problem why are you replacing them every year? the hubs/bearings is a wear item but the control arms. Seems like a bad install.

 

[DreamCar]

what was the problem why are you replacing them every year? the hubs/bearings is a wear item but the control arms. Seems like a bad install.

I'm not sure why it's every year I'm just tired of it.
I've had them done professionally at Mechanic shops and done with friends but no matter what they break all the time.

 

[shane10]

I replaced mine with OEM motorcraft from rockauto, bought both front UCA's for about $105 a piece, installed myself so no labor.
My original UCA's had 160K miles on them, and were still in decent condition, just worn boot and balljoint.
For most repairs that see a lot of abuse, I tend to go towards original motorcraft parts, unless price in too outrageous, as I have had good luck/duration with most of these, and read too many horror stories about aftermarket.

 

[SyberTiger]

Make sure the bearings are high quality like SKF, Timken, National, etc. The cheap Chinese ones are reported to crap out within 20 miles to 6 or 9 months. Made in USA, Canada, South Korea = good .... otherwise you might become an expert changing those hubs out.

 

[Number4]

The oe hubs and control arms fail, often within 40k miles. So do not replace with Motorcraft.

A shop is 99% likely to use white box, Moog or Timken on the fronts. These are ALL white box and junk.

Use only SKF on the fronts. Use only Timken (which they make and don't outsource) on the rear. For example, a rear SKF is a Timken bearing. But Timken does NOT make the front bearings, they are sourced.

Control arms aftermarket nowadays are all junk. They have become a commodity item and thus there is no quality. Perhaps so if you just buy the ball joint.

Also, if you don't have a torque wrench that can properly torque the axle nuts, your bearings wil fail.

 

[SyberTiger]

My SKF front hubs came with Timken (made in USA) bearings. I used Timken (made in South Korea) bearings on the rear.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

I've used Mevotech control arms/ball joint and "GMB" (some unknown chinese) for the hub assembly and it's been there for a long time with no issues. Since it's easy to replace the fronts I could just slap any chinese part out there every year..

 

[SyberTiger]

I've use GMB for water pump and fan clutch...both manufactured in South Korean and believe these are high quality components.

 

[imp]

I've use GMB for water pump and fan clutch...both manufactured in South Korean and believe these are high quality components.

@SyberTiger
Guess only time can tell. I used Chinese-made for rears 5 years ago, going against all recommendations. No problems yet, ~ 60K. Used foreign-made for left-front, about 6 months ago, now right front making noise, bought Timken, twice the price+.

I checked the hardness of the rear's wheel lugs and the bearing race, they were definitely Grade 5 or better, and the race extremely hard, just like bearings used to be, so they did something right, anyhow. imp

 

[Tech By Trade]

The key is torque. If you do not torque the hubs to 183 foot lbs they will fail. Close enough is not close enough. I have been running white box for years now without issue and I use my truck as a truck, not a glorified grocery getter.