Upper control arms

[Gse Brent]

I'm replacing the upper left and right control arms and lower ball joints. The passenger is a 2 piece design, i was wondering if i could use the 1 piece design in its place and take that 2 piece design out of there. Anybody ever replace them? Difficult? Doesn't look too bad, about 3 bolts to get off.

 

[swshawaii]

Most difficult part of the UCA's is the rear drivers side camber bolt.
Lowers are more difficult and easier done with the proper tools, IMO.
Having success with your BL, these should be a piece of cake for you. GL

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194453
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188225

 

[MidnightRebel07]

I replaced all of mine with Raybestos ProGrade Series parts from rockauto.com using the discount code from the vendors section on here. I replaced the two piece with the one piece UCA and installed the Moog Caster/ Camber Adjuster Kit from Napa. I think I did a thread on here about it, can't remember right now, I'll try and find it.

I bought the Ball Joint Tool Kit and a electric impact gun from Harbor Freight, made the job a whole lot easier.

 

[Gse Brent]

Most difficult part of the UCA's is the rear drivers side camber bolt.
Lowers are more difficult and easier done with the proper tools, IMO.
Having success with your BL, these should be a piece of cake for you. GL

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194453
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188225

Thanks, i'll read through those threads.

I replaced all of mine with Raybestos ProGrade Series parts from rockauto.com using the discount code from the vendors section on here. I replaced the two piece with the one piece UCA and installed the Moog Caster/ Camber Adjuster Kit from Napa. I think I did a thread on here about it, can't remember right now, I'll try and find it.

I bought the Ball Joint Tool Kit and a electric impact gun from Harbor Freight, made the job a whole lot easier.

Yea i remember awhile ago i had a thread about front wheel/hub bearings and i mentioned uca's and you chimed in. I went with the 1 piece design for the passenger but you said the 2 piece offers more adjustability. Don't the lower ball joints have to be pressed in?

 

[MidnightRebel07]

The two piece does allow for more adjustment but the problem is they don't sell the upper piece for that design so you're stuck with the old bushings which is why I went with the one piece design. The lowers do need pressed in, that's what the ball joint tool kit is for even though the new ones went in easily with a BFH and a big socket.

 

[techieman33]

The two piece does allow for more adjustment but the problem is they don't sell the upper piece for that design so you're stuck with the old bushings which is why I went with the one piece design. The lowers do need pressed in, that's what the ball joint tool kit is for even though the new ones went in easily with a BFH and a big socket.

I keep the 2 piece upper because the torque monster headers prevent me from removing the bolts that hold the control arm to the frame.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Ok Techieman33, throw it in our faces that we don't have V8's. LOL

I know that on my wife's '97 Mounty V8 AWD it was more of a paint to get the UCA bolts out and the new caster camber kit in since all the fuel and brake lines are in the way right there next to the shock tower. I had a hell of a time getting the bolts and washers in and out. Had to bend the lines some (hoping they didn't kink and or break), PITMF'ngA I tell ya. LOL

The ones on my '03 ST were pretty easy, especially with the 3" body lift.

 

[WidgetTrac]

I replaced all of mine with Raybestos ProGrade Series parts from rockauto.com using the discount code from the vendors section on here. I replaced the two piece with the one piece UCA and installed the Moog Caster/ Camber Adjuster Kit from Napa...

+1 on the pro grade lowers & discount. Also, there's a rebate going now on the pro grade. when I saw their video I thought the "low friction" ball joints on my mustang looks like the same polished ball/plastic socket type, and they've been great. The camber bolt kits claim to allow further adjustment than the others too, though I remain skeptical.

If you are replacing a two-piece arm with one-piece, you'll at least need a kit WITH BOLTS for that side, unless you are very lucky - it could just bolt on in perfect alignment. I.m even more skeptical of THAT, so I got a kit for each side.

I didn.t get the uppers yet because i'm still thinking about custom uniball arms for more travel. The better quality uppers aren't cheap, and if you need both replaced at once plus your OEM shocks are bad too, then it's the perfect time to upgrade.

I got the moog swaybar links because they use a bigger bolt and cost less... off-topic maybe, but its something to look at if yours eats end links like mine and you're paying shipping anyway.

 

[Gse Brent]

The two piece does allow for more adjustment but the problem is they don't sell the upper piece for that design so you're stuck with the old bushings which is why I went with the one piece design. The lowers do need pressed in, that's what the ball joint tool kit is for even though the new ones went in easily with a BFH and a big socket.

Where can i get one of these lower ball joint tool kits at?

 

[MidnightRebel07]

I got mine from Harbor Freight cheap, I also got the electric impact gun as well, these two tools have made quick work of this project and alot of other things I've worked on as well.

 

[swshawaii]

Another option is renting specialty tools from most of the larger AP chain stores.
Requires a fully refundable deposit. I didn't see a need to own a ball joint press.

 

[Gse Brent]

+1 on the pro grade lowers & discount. Also, there's a rebate going now on the pro grade. when I saw their video I thought the "low friction" ball joints on my mustang looks like the same polished ball/plastic socket type, and they've been great. The camber bolt kits claim to allow further adjustment than the others too, though I remain skeptical.

If you are replacing a two-piece arm with one-piece, you'll at least need a kit WITH BOLTS for that side, unless you are very lucky - it could just bolt on in perfect alignment. I.m even more skeptical of THAT, so I got a kit for each side.

I didn.t get the uppers yet because i'm still thinking about custom uniball arms for more travel. The better quality uppers aren't cheap, and if you need both replaced at once plus your OEM shocks are bad too, then it's the perfect time to upgrade.

I got the moog swaybar links because they use a bigger bolt and cost less... off-topic maybe, but its something to look at if yours eats end links like mine and you're paying shipping anyway.

I just did the shocks replaced with rancho rs5000's. I have moog swaybar links. I went ahead and bought moog upper left and right control arms and moog lower ball joints as well. I bought the 1pc design for the passenger side but you recommend replacing the bolts? Ford OEM bolts?

 

[swshawaii]

The Moog K80065 cam/bolt kit shown here. Two kits needed.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf

 

[Gse Brent]

I got mine from Harbor Freight cheap, I also got the electric impact gun as well, these two tools have made quick work of this project and alot of other things I've worked on as well.

Yea i want to get one of those impact guns from there for the lug nuts, they have cheap stuff thats actually good stuff Is this what your talking about http://www.harborfreight.com/four-wheel-drive-ball-joint-service-kit-4065.html. Local Ford dealer wanted $510 including alignment just to replace the lower ball joints. I'd rather buy this tool opposed to that. From what some people say running the 15x10 steel wheels or really wide tires you'll go through some lower ball joints among other things.

 

[Gse Brent]

The Moog K80065 cam/bolt kit shown here. Two kits needed.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf

Are those shims/spacers replacing the Ford ones?

 

[Gse Brent]

Yea Mjenks430 is running 36x15.50 and says he runs through ball joints and hub bearings. Wonder if he's running 15x10's or 15x12's? Either way i know i need to replace some front end parts.

 

[swshawaii]

IIRC, only the 2004-05 ST's came with eccentric camber washers.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Yes, that's the tool kit. Still replace the C/C bolts with Moogs, with your big ass wheels and tires it'll help out alot and get a lifetime alignment, you'll need it.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Mjenks430 switched to SAS, SOA because he was tired of replacing frontend parts and tires just like most that end up doing a SAS. I hope he's ok, we haven't heard anything from him for a long time.

 

[Gse Brent]

Yea curious to see what his truck looks like these days, loved the way it looked before probably one of my favorite sport tracs. So i'm replacing all these front end parts because my local Ford dealer told me it needs to be done, truck has about 118k on it and especially now with the set up i have. But mostly i'm getting a very annoying squeek from the front drivers side. I can rock the truck back and forth and it squeeks but onl from that side. It's not a body mount bushing its something suspension related. I replaced all the shocks from oem to rancho rs5000s and still squeeks. I sprayed deep creep penetrating lube then weeks later white lithium grease on everything from the upper a arms bolts to the lower a arms bolts including the lower ball joints, sway bar links and sway bar to frame bushings. Have no idea what it could be so im replacing everything i can because of how annoying it is. Even looking into this grease from caterpillar called desert gold used on bull dozers. Got any other ideas?