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vibration only while on gas

storlied

Explorer Addict
Joined
June 20, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Anchorage, Alaska
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 5.0L V8 AWD XLT
I've now got a vibration from 20-40mph.. and then it comes back at around 50-60+

It's only when I'm on the gas, I don't get it.. Nothing has any weird play in it... I dropped the front drive shaft and still the same problem.

I do have 2 lower ball joints that are bad, and the rear end needs new bearings... do these issues relate with a vibration problem at all? I've looked at everything.. I just can't find anything wrong.
 



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if you have vibration issues related to acceleration/throttle only and you dont have a front DS i would lean towards u-joints or rear axle/pinion bearing problems as you already indicated.

check your pinion bearing (make sure it doesnt have in/out play) and at least replace your rear axle shaft bearings.
 






Rear drive-shaft looks pretty good, but the rear axle definitely has some noises and needs some work.

I'm going to make an apointment soon to have the rear axle looked at. (mainly to change the bearings out.) How common is it to spin a bearing inside the axle housing damaging it? And if I have to replace the whole thing.. how much does one of these weigh anyways?


Also, for testing purposes..... would it be safe to drive a little bit without the rear driveshaft?
 






when was the last time, if ever, you have the rear DS u-joints replaced?

axle shaft bearings are not common to spin, i replaced mine at 100K or so and they werent even bad just did it as a precaution. only other thing i could think of is that maybe a carrier bearing is going bad. and at that rate those arent to much to replace unless you plan on regearing. i would say no more then $200. axle shaft bearings are not bad to do, just rent a slide hammer from an autozone.
 






Never that I know of.

I'm not going to be doing these myself.
I think I got a quote for around $500 for both sides for the bearings, since they're already in there... how much could they possibly charge extra for the carrier bearing to be replaced?..... I'm also pretty sure the axle shafts will need to be replaced..... mainly the driver's side... aren't those cheap?

Hell, I might just pick-up a rear driveshaft from a junk yard... no harm in that? Not like the front one with the CV... never know what's going on with those..
 






$500 for rear shaft bearings!?! :eek:no way man, they are trying to get you!!

seriously tho, there are plenty of write ups on replacing u joints, its not hard at all! i would start there before doing anything else, especially if u cant remember them ever being replaced! its really not hard to do, just search a lil bit, it not, take off the rear DS (12 point, 12mm socket) and take it to someone to replace them
 






i used to have the same problem from like 40-50. i had a misfire in the 7th cylinder and i just had to replace a wire.
 






This definitely isn't an engine issue.
 






do you jump alot or tow or jump on the throttle from a complete stop? if you do any or all of these i would look into replacing the rear end with aftermarket locker or posi. im getting ready to replace mine today
 












do you jump alot or tow or jump on the throttle from a complete stop? if you do any or all of these i would look into replacing the rear end with aftermarket locker or posi
What does a locker or a "posi" (thats a GM term) have to do with the poster's vibration problem?
 






I have done my fair share of mobbing around, and the TT definitely isn't too much.. I've been running with it for quite some time now. A locker wouldn't help? That would be like overclocking your computer because it's being slower than usual. =P

As for removing the rear shaft, it would have been for testing purposes only.. but I fear too much stress on my front DS.... crappy cv joint.. bah..

He might have been pointing toward the LS clutches wearing down from me being aggressive??? That's my best guess for his post...
 






yes thats what i was getting at all of the mobbing causes alot of stress on the rear end and i was throwing out an idea for a rear end. and also by installing an aftermarket rear end you will have less problems when mobbing and more traction so you dont even have to think of locking it into 4. i am having the same problem as storlied already pulled the cover off and the spiders and ring and pinion gears and bearings are all bad. it is all stock ford. they were not built for heavy offroad use otherwise they would have put a limited slip or posi as the stock conventional rear ends transfer power to the tire that has lost traction as to not cause any wear and tear when driving on the street
 






Too much TT causes a vibration under acceleration.

No you can't / shouldn't remove your rear driveshaft and drive around :confused:

Unless your 4wd.. I remember driving to the part store in 4hi when I blew the ujoint out of the rear shaft. Took every back road to avoid highways as much as possible..
 






i am having the same problem as storlied already pulled the cover off and the spiders and ring and pinion gears and bearings are all bad. it is all stock ford. they were not built for heavy offroad use otherwise they would have put a limited slip or posi as the stock conventional rear ends transfer power to the tire that has lost traction as to not cause any wear and tear when driving on the street
The limited slips differentials (LSD) and open differentials uses the same exact ring and pinion gears. And the spider gears are pretty much the same except (I think) the LSD is modified to incorporate the clutches riding behind them.

Further more, "jumping" doesnt really put any stress on the differential because the force is all vertical and is at the end of the tube -- which means the outer wheel bearings are what takes most of the stress.
 






Do the ujoints need to be pressed or not for the rear driveshaft?
 






My explorer had exactly the same vibrations. I change rear drive shaft u joints and it was fixed.
 






I can't get the bolts to budge... to get the shaft out... any suggestions? I sprayed them down with PB... I can't get them to move even slightly.....

Another question also.. can I jack up the rear end.. (and put it into neutral) and spin the drive shaft without it catching with the front? So I can get to the bolts easier?
I would Think it wouldn't affect the front because I'm not putting nearly enough "slip" to the rear for the VC to lockup... but who knows.. there could be a secret to this thing..

Idk.... main priority is getting these damn bolts to break loose.
 






I can't get the bolts to budge... to get the shaft out... any suggestions? I sprayed them down with PB... I can't get them to move even slightly.....

Another question also.. can I jack up the rear end.. (and put it into neutral) and spin the drive shaft without it catching with the front? So I can get to the bolts easier?
I would Think it wouldn't affect the front because I'm not putting nearly enough "slip" to the rear for the VC to lockup... but who knows.. there could be a secret to this thing..

Idk.... main priority is getting these damn bolts to break loose.

yes, you can rotate the rear shaft without the front output catching
 



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Still have the bad ujoints, or at least I hope it's the ujoints... I've started to feel a clunk anytime I shift into reverse or drive and when I'm coasting and I hit the gas... but I feel it under my seat... could that be anything else? Or just these stupid ujoints? I had someone shift through the gears while I looked under the truck and there's no play or anything around either of the ujoints in the rear shaft, or in the front.. didn't see any abnormal play in the cv joint in the front shaft either... might have to pop it out n go for a drive .. Any ideas? And any ideas for how to get to each of the bolts at the at the rear shaft at the tranny?
 






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