Walk a woman through upper radiator hose replacement

[WhiteDove]

I have a leaking upper radiator hose on my 03 Ex Sport XLT. For a female I'm pretty handy and I know I can do this but I'm puzzled how to get to the connection by the thermostat. There's a sheild over the housing. My hands are tiny but I don't think I can get to the end of that hose without taking off that sheild. It's got those nasty clamps on the ends of the hose that I know I can pinch free but the one clamp by that thermostat housing is also in a limited location. I'm going to replace those clamps with the screw type. It scares me a bit to just dive right in without some guidance. I don't want to screw something up. What should be removed to get at that hose connection and how do you remove it. Step by step instructions would be great and I'm not offended at all if you'd like to dumb it way down for me

Also: Why is it when I look for an upper radiator hose on line and they all say they fit my little suv the size doesn't come close to what's currently being used. Most of the upper radiator hoses suggested for my vehicle on line are about 17 inch's but the current one being used is a good 25 inch's at least. Could I use the smaller one? Maybe I'm measuring wrong. The jerk at Napa Auto Supply wanted to charge me 75.00 dollars for a hose. I just don't believe it should be that costly.

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

[98ExplorerGuy]

$75 is way too much. Try http://www.advanceautoparts.com and be sure to select the correct engine when going through the "Add a vehicle" form. Note: the eighth character of your Explorer's vehicle identification number (VIN) is a letter which represents the engine in your vehicle. You need to get this right if you hope to locate the correct hose.

 

[SoNic67]

Variant 1: Get a boyfriend/husband and make him do it. We are suckers like that...
Variant 2: Get one of those Hynes/Chilton repair manuals and read it. Search on you tube videos of how-to. Get a big pair of Tongue&Groove pliers (Channellock). Those can clamp the clamps ends together. But first you need to drain the radiator (some of it, not all, you are working only at the top).
As for hose itself: Advance Auto Parts usually runs some online discount codes - you order the part online and pick it up at the store. Search for valid codes on RetailMeNot (they have some hidden ones).

 

[1998Exp]

You already got some good advice here. A couple comments on 'those nasty clamps':
1) There is a tool for dealing with those. Any auto parts store will have it.
2) If I were you I'd make an effort to keep them. The auto manufacturers switched to those not because they are easier for them to install, but because they are vastly better than the screw type. One reason hoses need to be replaced is the unavoidable re-tightening these screws, which damages the hose ends. The 'nasty' type eliminates this problem.

...
It's got those nasty clamps on the ends of the hose that I know I can pinch free but the one clamp by that thermostat housing is also in a limited location. I'm going to replace those clamps with the screw type...

 

[swshawaii]

Sure it's the upper radiator hose leaking? Plastic lower thermostat housing is by far a more common failure. They usually leak from the seams and leave white coolant residue on top. Bent nose pliers for the constant tension clamps works well.

http://bengrosser.com/howto/fordthermostat/

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1414527,parttype,10337

 

[Flash]

These ones- https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSvwxu0xfS989CYeWtiwSSQeLQAUyymyOey_1vVyzm9gqycl7M-Iw

 

[WhiteDove]

Thank you all so much. It's definitely the upper radiator hose. The link about the thermostat was excellent and I'm definitely going to be able to do this. I also noticed the placement of the hose in one photo and I'm going to place the new one exactly how they've done there's as opposed to whoever put this last one in. I treat this little suv like a precious baby and was stunned at what happened.

I came home last week and about 15 minutes later noticed a large wet spot around the passenger front wheel. Touched it and smelled it and and realized that wasn't the usual AC condensation. I Opened the hood and the radiator reservoir cap was off and and coolant was every where. Reservoir was basically empty so I filled that up and closed it. Waited to make sure the engine was cooled down and then opened the radiator cap. It looked full but started the truck to top it off if needed and bleed it. There were no bubbles and no noticeable leaks. I checked the oil and all was good. No gunky looking stuff. No smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Engine ran cool as usual even after 15 minutes.

I inspected everything and made a note how the upper hose was being gouged by a sharp metal edge connecting to the ac. In the link provided I noticed the placement of the hose avoided touching that sharp edge. The sharp edge had dug a slight split in the knetting and there was some tearing into what I thought was the outer layer of the actual hose, but since I could see nothing spitting or leaking thought maybe some how the reservoir cap was the issue which scared me. I had checked the fluid levels within the last month and thought maybe I hadn't pushed it all the way back down. In the back of my mind though was the thought if pressure built up and blew that cap off... uh oh!

So all week traveling around I watched for any questionable signs. No leaking, no over heating. Coolant levels good. And then on Friday went to the store quickly came back and there was the leak again. This time when I lifted up the hood the reservoir cap was on. Slightly low but that front seat passenger right wheel area was drenched and there was fresh spray on the reservoir and AC. Reservoir was low. I started the engine and this time saw the spitting out of the hose right at the area I'd noticed the gouging. After cooling it down tried duct tape and that doesn't work so well. It doesn't spit out but drips pretty heavy. I am still puzzled how a leaking hose could create enough pressure to pop a cap off but maybe you guys can explain that one.

I'll be putting in the new hose tomorrow and will let you know how it goes. I'm going to go with the nasty clamps as suggested. Taking my VIN number with me to get the hose. Already got the pliers needed for the clamps. I'll drain/refill/ bleed and top off and have my girl drip free and running smooth THANK YOU!!

 

[WhiteDove]

I DID IT!! Nines ( I named her that because of the date i purchased her ) running great again and not crying coolant all over the place. Thanks again and I'm using the original clamps.