kit352
Active Member
- Joined
- December 25, 2007
- Messages
- 80
- Reaction score
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- City, State
- holland ma.
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 94 sport
well just got done putting in my war153 zinc shackles. got the zinc ones since they look purty and im pretty sure itll last longer than the powder coating. i got about 1 1/2-1 3/4in lift out of them measured from the ground to the center of the rim to the middle of the fender. wasnt to bad but i did get stuck on the last bolt. it was a frame one on the drivers side. worked it for about 2hrs till i got it out. figured id give a run down on the install since i had to read many threads to find everything out. i did it in the snow, on dirt, while snowing, at about 20f, in about 3hrs. would have been less than an hour total but the stuck bolt really slowed me down.
the install can be done with simple tools as long as you dont have any sticking issues. youll need a 13/16 socket (2 maybe better but the bolt head is really shallow and i could get more grip with a wrench), breaker bar, rachet, pb blaster (or similar, it really helps), hammer (maybe bfh depending on severity), flathead screw driver (prying), jack stands,and lug remover. i used the stock bottle jack and it worked fine. you will need a 2x4 to place under it so you can get more height when you get the shackles back on for rim install. its also needed to wedge between the frame and leaf springs to align the new shackles up.
-soak the shackles with pb blast a few days before and keep hitting everyday until your work day comes. its not needed but really helps if your gonna run into stuck bolts.
-youll need to jack up the rear end to the point you can get the tires off and place jack stands just infront of the leaf spring frame mount. tire chocks are a good idea here.
-remove tires and place bottle jack under the rear pumpkin with a piece of wood in between to protect it. jack it up slightly just to take some pressure off it and help keep it level.
-start with either side shackle and remove the bottom mount first. the bolts have clips on them to prevent them from spining so you may want to remove these. i left them on to hold the bolt while i loosened the nut. i got the nut to the end of the bolt and a few threads beyond to help protect the bolt from mushrooming then beat it with a hammer. bolt pushed out a bit then i removed the nut and used a drift to get it the rest out.
- top is the same as the bottom but with less room. you may find it easier to drop the spare tire while doing the top ones.
-i installed the shackles in the frame first using the longer end of the shackles. im not sure if they have a top or bottom but one end is longer than the other measured from the center brace. i reasoned the top would need the most room to prevent binding. make sure to use nevercease and lock tite on the nut and bolts. torque is about 50ft/lbs. since i was alone i needed to use the stock jack between the frame and springs to push the spring into position on the first side. on the second side i was able to use my hands. install the bolts the same as the top.
-once everything is together drop the jack from the center pumpkin and put the tires back on. take it for a ride to make sure everything is as it should be. i took it up some rocks and got out while twisted to make sure nothing was binding or rubbing. got home and retorqued everything again.
i only did the rear at this time since it was getting real cold and snowy. sits all right and you only feel a little tipped forward while driving. seat adjustment takes care of that. ill get to the front spacers at a later date.
the install can be done with simple tools as long as you dont have any sticking issues. youll need a 13/16 socket (2 maybe better but the bolt head is really shallow and i could get more grip with a wrench), breaker bar, rachet, pb blaster (or similar, it really helps), hammer (maybe bfh depending on severity), flathead screw driver (prying), jack stands,and lug remover. i used the stock bottle jack and it worked fine. you will need a 2x4 to place under it so you can get more height when you get the shackles back on for rim install. its also needed to wedge between the frame and leaf springs to align the new shackles up.
-soak the shackles with pb blast a few days before and keep hitting everyday until your work day comes. its not needed but really helps if your gonna run into stuck bolts.
-youll need to jack up the rear end to the point you can get the tires off and place jack stands just infront of the leaf spring frame mount. tire chocks are a good idea here.
-remove tires and place bottle jack under the rear pumpkin with a piece of wood in between to protect it. jack it up slightly just to take some pressure off it and help keep it level.
-start with either side shackle and remove the bottom mount first. the bolts have clips on them to prevent them from spining so you may want to remove these. i left them on to hold the bolt while i loosened the nut. i got the nut to the end of the bolt and a few threads beyond to help protect the bolt from mushrooming then beat it with a hammer. bolt pushed out a bit then i removed the nut and used a drift to get it the rest out.
- top is the same as the bottom but with less room. you may find it easier to drop the spare tire while doing the top ones.
-i installed the shackles in the frame first using the longer end of the shackles. im not sure if they have a top or bottom but one end is longer than the other measured from the center brace. i reasoned the top would need the most room to prevent binding. make sure to use nevercease and lock tite on the nut and bolts. torque is about 50ft/lbs. since i was alone i needed to use the stock jack between the frame and springs to push the spring into position on the first side. on the second side i was able to use my hands. install the bolts the same as the top.
-once everything is together drop the jack from the center pumpkin and put the tires back on. take it for a ride to make sure everything is as it should be. i took it up some rocks and got out while twisted to make sure nothing was binding or rubbing. got home and retorqued everything again.
i only did the rear at this time since it was getting real cold and snowy. sits all right and you only feel a little tipped forward while driving. seat adjustment takes care of that. ill get to the front spacers at a later date.
