Water Pump Holes Stripped HELP!!

[tclark77]

replace the timing cover its really not that big of a deal. if your up to 8+ mm on a previosly 6mm hole your asking for the cover to crack and fail anyways. by now your pretty good at getting the water pump off, pull the balancer, unbolt the cover, remember the bolts that go in through the bottom and your done. 1 day job worst case even if you dont have air tools.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

yes, I don't think you have to take off the oil pan.

Look at this picture:

Dosen't look that bad, it would also give you a chance to replace the front crank seal too

 

[MrQ]

I just checked the haynes manual. There are three or four bolts that attach the oil pan to the timing chain cover. And as everybody knows you have to pull the engine to get to the oil pan.

As much as that would be something I would LOOVE to do right now , I am just really more concerned about getting my truck running right now. If it breaks I'll deal with it then. I have a limited budget and limited space to pull an engine. I am surprised nobody has called the HOA out on my brother and I yet. We have already contributed to at least two rather large oil stains to our cul-de-sac, and not to mention my truck taking a coolant leak on the curb.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

I just checked the haynes manual. There are three or four bolts that attach the oil pan to the timing chain cover. And as everybody knows you have to pull the engine to get to the oil pan.

As much as that would be something I would LOOVE to do right now , I am just really more concerned about getting my truck running right now. If it breaks I'll deal with it then. I have a limited budget and limited space to pull an engine. I am surprised nobody has called the HOA out on my brother and I yet. We have already contributed to at least two rather large oil stains to our cul-de-sac, and not to mention my truck taking a coolant leak on the curb.

I'm sorry I have trouble understanding. I understand that the oil pan is bolted to the timing cover, but what inhibits you from taking off the timing cover with the oil pan intact? Couldn't you just unfasten the 3-5 odd bolts attaching the pan to the timing cover, leaving the other bolts attaching the pan to the block and then remove the cover with the pan still attached to the engine?

I have proven the haynes manual wrong before when working on my truck. But I am not the most familiar with the OHV as I am with the SOHC

 

[MrQ]

I'm sorry I have trouble understanding. I understand that the oil pan is bolted to the timing cover, but what inhibits you from taking off the timing cover with the oil pan intact? Couldn't you just unfasten the 3-5 odd bolts attaching the pan to the timing cover, leaving the other bolts attaching the pan to the block and then remove the cover with the pan still attached to the engine?

I have proven the haynes manual wrong before when working on my truck. But I am not the most familiar with the OHV as I am with the SOHC

I have had my fair share of proving Haynes wrong...more than once. But, in this case... I could do it but it would involve more work than I am prepared to do.

I'll just run the helicoils. Man, a winning lottery ticket would sure be nice about now...

 

[nooberiffic]

I have pulled a timing cover of a 93 explorer I was parting out. No need to pull engine or take oil pan off. As the guy said, just take the 4? bolts of the front face of the oil pan. With out air tools 4-5 hours top to finish job if you have someone help you.

 

[MrQ]

Well I just finished reinstalling the water pump

Good news: The helicoils held and the water pump doesn't leak and the whole truck is back together

Bad news: The out rubber line from my water pump got gashed by the belt when I tested the pump. Seems I didn't put it back in the holder properly...

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

Great! you installed the helicoils yourself? Was it very difficult?

 

[MrQ]

Yep and nope. I just finished putting the new hose on and retightened some bolts and I am back in business. NO LEAKS!!

Thanks for all your help guys. And on an even more upside I didn't have to pull the condenser. I just found a close quarters drill for $40 and I was set.

 

[Anime]

That's good you have it fixed and hopefully driveable for now, but I would suggest sourcing a timing cover in the meantime. It's going to be back to the same situation if it starts to leak and you're not already set with the parts and tools to fix it the right way.

If nothing else, it's good to have the stuff to replace the timing cover with the next time you're doing some major engine work anyway.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Glad the helicoils worked. I had to replacing the timing cover on mine!

 

[Y2K Explorer]

This thread popped up first when I tried searching for a solution to "stripped water pump bolts 4.0L"...

Mine is a 4.0L SOHC [2-door Explorer Sport] and I replaced my original water pump literally four years ago...
AND I barely got 30/40K miles before it started leaking...

I got a deal on a "Magneti-Marelli by MOPAR" brand/version water pump so I went with it... I guess I got what I paid for...

This time I just went to Autozone & paid retail for a replacement.
Anyway, a month later it started to leak too. So I found the bolts seem to have backed-out or sorta loose.

BUT when I tried re-tightening the second bolt to the right of the top nozzle/nipple [connects to the thermostat], it STRIPPED OUT before I had a chance to torque it.
Plus the bottom one right below too!

I replaced the other "10" bolts with longer M6-1.00 x 25MM hex-flange bolts

Stripped out holes, I went with 1/4-20 x 1inch with two washers for the top bolt & one washer for the bottom bolt.

SO FAR... It's holding... but time will tell.

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1997-2011 Ford Timing Cover 5L2Z-6019-AA | TascaParts.com

1997-2011 Ford part # 5L2Z-6019-AA - Timing Cover

www.tascaparts.com

Posting the lower timing cover I will need if I ever get around to replacing it for future reference.