Watts links-n-stuff | Ford Explorer Forums

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Watts links-n-stuff

RVZII

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Joined
November 20, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Mahaffey,Pa
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 Explorer XLT
Has anyone here with a S/A conversion ever thought of using a watts Link on the front instead of the single bar? I recently purchased a "74 EB to swipe the drivetrain components for my '92 Explorer and was wondering if its been done or at least tried. Another thing is when I put the F-150 TTB steering knuckles on the front of my first Explorer it gave the brakes an "uneasy" feeling. How do the straight axle brakes work with the Explorer master? I think I'll upgrade to a 150 master and booster to better match up the brake system.
 



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Welcome!!!:D

The only time I have heard of watts links being used is with race cars. The theory behind them seems solid, but looks like if would limit flex in a 4x4 situation.

Have you seen them used offroad? I would be interested in whatever info you have about them.
 






Not much mud

I'm not as much of an off roader but I like the durability aspect and i'd be the first in my area to go straight. I think if you get the right bends in the bars and shape the pivot right, it would give a good amount of flex and drop.
 






the ford ttb is decently strong, and built up (major $ though) can have a lot of flex -- im talking wristed, extended RAs, all that
 






Going straight

I'm using a set of '74 EB axles and trashing the TTB. Any word on the brake situation?
 






Most of the watts links setups I have seen have used straight bars at a relatively low angle. All have been at the frame right at or just higher than the plane of the axle. Of course, most have been on rear axles with notched frames to accomodate this.

Just to get the axle under there and clear driveline issues, the axle is going to have to be set quite lower than the frame. This would leave the bars set at a high angle, which I don't think will work. Then again, you mentioned bending the bars and you probably know more about them than I do.
 






Not really

No Rob, I don't know more about them or I wouldn't have to ask! LOL. I can see how it should be in my head but I was looking for someone who had at least tried it. I figure if you can bow and bend a single bar to work with the height from the straight axle, why not two? I'm not sure, but I think they would have to be sort-of "S" shaped to work right.
 






So you've actually done the D44 outers swap on the TTB? How'd that treat you. What all is needed? I've always heard its a bolt up affair, but could never seem to find anyone that had done it. Info please.
 






Yeah,Idid

Idid the 44 swap on the TTB a couple years ago. The first thing I noticed is the brakes don't feel good. As far as the actual bolt up, the balljoints are different where they go in the steering knuckle. Ex's were smaller outer diameter. I took a piece of steel (not sure the thickness now) and cut strips to fit around the outside of the balljoint from the Ex, then fitted them into the hole in the 44 knuckle and spot welded them in place. You'l want to make the strips narrow enough they don't cover the lockring groove in the 'joint. Then I used a wheel cylinder hone and honed the shims out until the Ex 'joints were about the same press in fit as in the original knuckles. This set-up worked well and didn't get loose over time.Another thing I did was the lower joint rubbed the u-joint after assembly making a clicking noise. I removed the hub,spindle and axle, ground the top of the balljoint down to the nut and reassembled it. No more contact. As far as finished mods, it got rid of that front end shake and seemed to handle better,but the brakes were odd feeling due to the larger caliper on the smaller Ex master cylinder. Alignment and front to rear track was unaffected and I got a set of locking hubs to boot. I bought a whole rolling F-150 chassis for 200$ and swapped everything from that. You'll need all parts fromm the ball joint out including the axle stub. the Ex's tie rod ends fit the 44 steering and the u-joints were the same dimensions and fit the same. I would put a F-150 master cylinder on if I did this mod again.
 






Thats for the great info I've been looking for that, I'm going to copy and post to a new thread, I know people have been looking for this.

Oh, final question. I'm assuming these were D44 TTB knuckles, not solid D44 knuckles, this is what I've heard previously. Thanks.
 






Yep

Yes, they were the 44 TTB steering knuckles,axle stub, hub, spindle, etc.
 






In one of my off road mags a few months back I saw where they used a Watts type linkage...looks like it could be real effective. I'll browse through my mags when I get back from Truckhaven this weekend.;)
 






Thanks

Thanks for the effort DB 1, I think they could be very effective since they hold and pivot in the middle. Very conducive to flex
 






Well, i cant find the article or pics regarding the watts style linkage I saw in one of my off road mags, I probably threw it out or something.
From what I remember it somehow rotated off the top of the diff and had a link going fore and aft connected to the part that rotates. I know, hard to imagine without pics.
 






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