Well... I thought I needed a new Water Pump | Ford Explorer Forums

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Well... I thought I needed a new Water Pump

DeepEmissions

Active Member
Joined
September 6, 2011
Messages
72
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1
City, State
Okeechobee, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer XLT
For the past few days I've been dreading taking my water pump put of my truck. I tried scouring this site and I haven't really found any 1998 4.0 SOHC write-ups on how to properly do it.

Finally I decided that I'll just go for it! And as I was having trouble pulling the fan off the pump, the headlamp I was using caught a glimpse of something... behind the thermostat housing, I can see the same residue I thought was coming from the water pump. But if it came from the pump, how did it get there?
Further Investigation indicates that the small hose going from the top of the pump to the bottom of the thermostat housing could be bad. From what I can tell all my hoses are still using the factory squeeze clamps, instead of the screw style hose clamps.
So, I'd guess that I am still using factory hoses as well??

Any suggestions on how to tackle this very small hose in a very unforgiving location, without shattering my thermostat housing?
Should I just replace my housing while I replace this hose, and all my other hoses? I already planned on replacing my T-Stat just for safety measure, is that maybe a waste of time?
 



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Bumping this because I posted kinda late last night.

Would anyone have any suggestions on how to tackle this situation?
 






Replacing the water pump bypass hose without loosening the lower t-stat housing can be a PITA.
Cut the old hose off and loosen the factory clamps with bent pliers. Fold the hose with a zip tie and
lubricate the hose ends. Slip it on the water pump first and clamp. Fan shroud makes things tight. GL

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1304413,parttype,2155
 












Since you aren't really sure where the leak is coming from, you should really take some more time inspecting it until you are certain.

But yeah, as he said, the thermostat housing is a common place for leaks.
 






Thanks for all the replies!

I will work on this over the weekend, the truck still runs and this is the only transportation I have while my Bike is getting serviced... I will report back on what I decide to do and the outcome. Thanks everyone.
 






So, it took me some time to be able to actually get to my truck.
Even then I cannot devote all my time because I have a 4 year old son to watch as well...

Let me first apologize to everyone, sorry for posting my images on a different site, but it's the best, and easiest I can do. Plus I feel they stay better quality this way.

Here's what I got so far along with a few questions:

I always wondered if my trucks temperature gauge was accurate, I think this could be a no?
Google+ DeepEmissions Ford Explorer Build Album


Here's the failure
Google+ DeepEmissions Ford Explorer Build Album

Here's what the top of my 4.0 looks like after being sprayed with coolant for probably close to a year...
Google+ DeepEmissions Ford Explorer Build Album

Excessive oil on the Upper Intake Gasket?
Google+ DeepEmissions Ford Explorer Build Album

Close Up of the damaged sensor:
Google+ DeepEmissions Ford Explorer Build Album

New Lower Thermostat Housing, new sensor and sender, new seals, and using Dorman Product Number #800-801 Quick Disconnect Clips.
Honestly, IDK how these will work, guess I'll find out soon enough!
They seem to hold the push in sensors quite well, hopefully they don't leave me stranded on the side of the road.
Google+ DeepEmissions Ford Explorer Build Album

Did anyone else cuss the engineer who decided to run that particular wire OVER the lower thermostat housing? I did.
Google+ DeepEmissions Ford Explorer Build Album

Here's my other problem.
Now my truck wont start!
I think it has to do with the Ford Vehicle Security System Module.
My 'Valet' button has a steady slow flash (about 1 flash a second) weather the system is armed or unarmed.
This happened one other time and left me stranded at a gas station for 45 minutes until a concoction of different methods finally let the truck start up.
Does anyone know about these things?!?!

Here's a pic of the DIP Switch settings:
Google+ DeepEmissions Ford Explorer Build Album
 












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