What bypass do i need to run stock HU and aftermarket sub amp?

[jasnall]

ive looked around cant really find it, 98 mounty wanna keep stock HU but run aftermarket amp and sub, what bypass thin do i need and where does it go, plz give links if possible, thank you

And will this sound ok, i heard somthing about the stock HU not making AM sub hit hard?

 

[sirforrest]

i am wondering the same thing ive got all the wires amp speakers but my hu has a 6 disk changer in the armrest and the jbl audio and i want to use it. ive got 2 head units but i dont think theyll work the changer. do you have to use that wire thing that turns speaker wires into rcas any ways around this Thanks alot,Andrew

 

[99MercNeer]

What you need is a line output converter. They work decent for installing an after market amp to a stock HU. I tried this with my audiobahn amp and stock MACH head unit. The only negative thing I noticed was that with some music, my sub volumn would stay almost level (at time the sub would drown out vocals and other times the sub would not seem to hit quite as hard.) I eventually changed out the HU due to the display issue the MACH head units had/have. Anyway, here are a few links I found. Hope this helps a bit.

Tsunami Converter from Circuit City
Audiolink Converter from Crutchfield
Soundgate Converter from Buy.com
PAC TrunkLoc from Ebay
Scosche Converter from Wal-Mart

Take a look at these links, should give you a good starting point. Looking back at the ones I tried, (the scosche from Wal-Mart) I did not pay attention to the RMS rating of the converter... may have lead to my lack of sound satisfaction.

 

[sirforrest]

ive never hwd to use one of these on any installs . where is the best spot to hook it up? and how do you hide the wires? what about the remote wire? all my stuff is waiting on me but i need some advice please. those sites were helpful, thanks

 

[Stuman78424]

I usually hook the hi-lo converter up in the radio harness behind the radio(ONLY IF THE SYSTEM IS NOT EXTERNALLY AMPLIFIED), because that way if you ever do switch to an aftermarket HU your RCAs are right there and you dont have to run them otherwise tap in on the speaker side of the amp but i dont believe the 98 mountaineer has a factory amp. as for the remote wire you have several options as well you can tap into the radio harness, tap the fuse box, or the really fun way....get a low voltage relay that will turn on when it senses audio signal. we usually only use those caddilacs with the bose system...the STS is a fun one for a sub woofer, haha you only know my pain on this one if youve been there. i hope this helps

 

[99MercNeer]

Here is a diagram of the Wire Tap LOC Install method... BTW what stock setup do you have (is there a stock sub). If you try to use the stock remote on, you may run into a low voltage remote on situation (ie <5 vdc) which will keep your aftermarket amp from coming on. One solution is to use a low voltage remote on relay setup... if this is so, I have a list of parts you can use to build your own relay.
Diagram

 

[M.Scott]

Below is some info I typed up when intallings my amps to the factory HU in my 98. I used a peripheral VEN4 LOC (you need just 2 ch). I too put the LOC behind the HU and ran RCAs to the amp under the rear seat. The sound was very good IMO. What made me eventually go aftermarket HU was the annoying bass roll-off at high volumes. At about 3/4 vol the bass from stock HU decreases to help limit speaker distortion. So I turned up the bass on the HU to compensate. Good but when you turn down the vol again the bass is way high...Lived w/ it for a yr. Maybe your HU does not do this.

Also for the remote I ran into a wierd problem. I bought a low voltage trigger and connected it to the speaker wires...but it was always on. On testing the speaker wires I found that even with the radio off there was still current. I confirmed this by putting my ear to the speaker and heard a hiss...the radio off. Strange. So I used the switched yellow/black 12v wire and the amps came on whenever the truck was running.

I have all my wiring harnesses and LOC-looking for a home


1998 Explorer XLT Premium System w/ amp integrated into radio chassis
my truck came with rear seat controls but NO subwoofer,NO power
antenna, NO CD changer.

Stock AM/FM CD Cassette "Dual Media" part# F87F-18C868-CC

Typical harness to add aftermarket stereo - Scosche FD16, Metra 70-1771

Typical harness that connects into radio and would be needed if
stock harness was damaged - Scosche FD16R, Metra 71-1771

pin#-stock aftermarket function
1----DrkGreen/Orange---grey/black---RtFrnt-
2----White/Green-------grey---------RtFrnt+
3----Brown/Pink--------purple/black-RtRear-
4----Orange/red--------purple-------RtRear+
5----empty-------------empty--------(amp turn on for audiophile unit?)
6----Pink/Black(thin)--empty--------(pwr antenna?)
7----Black-------------orange/black-grounding dimmer
8----Pink/Black(thick)-orange-------illum/dimmer
9----Black/Green-------black/white--amp ground
10---Blue/White--------white/black--LftFrnt-
11---Orange/Green------white--------LftFrnt+
12---Tan/Yellow--------green/black--LftRear-
13---Grey/Blue---------green--------LftRear+
14---Black/Green-------black--------Chassis Ground
15---Yellow/Black------red----------switched Acc 12V
16---Green/Purple------yellow-------batt constant 12v

*Looking at stock Black connector w/red
leading edges.
____ _______ ____
| | | | | |
-------------------------
|1 |2 |3 |4 |5 |6 |7 |8 |
------------------------
|9 |10|11|12|13|14|15|16|
-------------------------


*I checked all wires but could not find a
12V source that was switched when the
radio was turned on for my "remote"
external amp turn on. I ended up
using the yellow/back switched Acc.

 

[CDW6212R]

Hello, I have a Mach radio in my 98, and I contacted someone on Ebay about my symptoms. When I mentioned that I'd like to eventually add amplifiers, I was topld that the Mach radios aren't the best to use with aftermarket amplifiers. He offered to trade me for a later Premium version, which would still work with my steering wheel controls.

The trade was $160, to cover a lifetime guarantee, instead of the normal $60 repair fee. My CD player and cassette player don't work, and will not eject.

Question about a low voltage relay: How low of a signal can trigger one of those relays? I'd like to trigger a circuit to only come on when the engine is running(Not key on, engine off). Does anyone here now if the special alternator wire can trigger one of those low voltage relays? I've been told that the wire I am talking about can't be used to power a circuit. It reads no output with the engine off, but has voltage when the alternator is spinning. I wonder if the small amount of current which would trigger a sensitive relay, would burn up the alternator? Thanks,
Don

 

[sirforrest]

hey m.scott i was wondering if that wire diagram is th e same for a 95 eb with premium sound. thanks