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What do you have in your Explorer?

Head unit: Kenwood MP-342U
Door Speakers: 4x Apline Type S Coaxial Speakers
Amplifier: MTX 300W x2 Channel
Subwoofer: Kicker Comp 12

Nothing big, just a little bit of thump.
 



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I have a sickness when it comes to car audio. This is just the Explorer. I also put a decent system in my F250 and my old lady's Sebring.

Alpine IVA-W505 (head unit)
Alpine PXA-H701 (processor)
Alpine PKG-M780 (headrest monitors)
Alpine PMD-B200 Blackbird (portable nav)
Alpine KCE-300BT (bluetooth)
Alpine TUA-T550HD (HD radio tuner)
Alpine SIR-ALP1 (Sirius tuner)
(2) JL Audio HD600/4s (1st amp: 2 channels for front mids, 2 channels for front tweets; 2nd amp: 2 channels for rears, 2 channels for midbass drivers)
(2) JL Audio HD750/1s (sub amps)
JL Audio ZR650-CSi (6.5" components, front)
JL Audio C5-650 (6.5" components, rear)
JL Audio ZR800-CWs (8" midbass drivers, sitting on a shelf not yet installed because it requires fiberglass work that I haven't gotten around to yet)
(2) Alpine Type R 15s
Custom built 7 cubic ft ported box tuned to 33 hz, made from 1" MDF
(2) Playstation 2s (one for each rear passenger)
Kinetic KHC2400 (battery)
Passport SR7+ZR3 (radar detector/laser shifter)
200+ sq ft of Dynamat Xtreme (sound deadener)
Stinger HPM wiring
JL Audio Premium (blue) RCAs

Other odds and ends I'm forgetting, I'm sure.

LOL i used to be the same way! You got any pics? Mine is still in my closet right now until i get my damn truck i paid for already!
 






LOL i used to be the same way! You got any pics? Mine is still in my closet right now until i get my damn truck i paid for already!

I've got a few older pics at the house, but one of these days I am going to clean it all up and go take a ton of pics. I'll post some up soon; the weather is getting nice for this.
 






Your truck came with 5x7s from the factory. Are you saying that someone already swapped them for 6x9s?

Mounting those speakers in the B pillar is going to make for terrible sound quality. I'm not trying to bash your setup/plan. I'm just trying to help, in case you just didn't know. If your only goal is to destroy ear drums, then more power to you. However, if you want your music to sound anything like what it was intended to sound like, you'll be better off scaling back the number of speakers and keeping them in the stock locations. There are certainly ways to improve the sound quality, imaging, etc from that point, but not the way you're doing it. Again, if you just want loud, and you want to use everything you have, please disregard my advice and have fun doing your thing.

36845_132799090081036_100000528363510_262998_1164948_n.jpg


My truck has 6x9s in the doors. It came with factory 6x9s. I can send you one if you'd like. As far as my plan goes, I'm surprised that you would think it would sound anything other than amazing. Quite frankly, stock locations are not designed with sound quality in mind. Based on the fact that you have a 7cu/ft box in your truck, I'd assume you go for SPL and not sound quality. I've been installing custom stereos for about 15 years now, I've built boxes to fit in places that no box could fit. The way I'm doing it works just fine. I have customers that would certainly agree.
 






Well I have
Alpine 9886 head unit
4 18" Incriminator Audio Death Penalty subwoofers
2 Incriminator Audio 40.1 sub amps (8,000 watts rms)
MB Quart DSC4125 4 channel mids/highs amp
4 6.5" American Bass mids, 2 6x9" mids, and 2 selenium super tweeters
DC Power 250 amp high output alternator
7 batteries total
e8c652aa.jpg

fd1d4739.jpg

 






My truck has 6x9s in the doors. It came with factory 6x9s. I can send you one if you'd like.

The Mountaineer comes with 5x7s (also referred to as 6x8s, although the two sizes are equal/interchangeable in the car audio industry). Maybe a 6x9 would fit without much effort. But it didn't come with 6x9s from the factory.


As far as my plan goes, I'm surprised that you would think it would sound anything other than amazing. Quite frankly, stock locations are not designed with sound quality in mind.

And you think that mounting a bunch of 3-way and/or 4-way speakers in the B-pillar is better for sound quality? That's incorrect. For better SQ, you don't want speakers next to or behind your head like that. You're much better off having a nice set of components or simple 2-way coaxials in the factory locations. If you want to move stuff around, mount them even further forward in the kick panels. Maybe try the tweeters up in the A-pillars, although as a guy that's more focused on SQ than most people, I prefer to keep my tweets close to my mids, run good gear, and adjust the eq, phase, and time alignment as needed to achieve proper imaging. If you don't carry passengers often, you could even get rid of any and all other speakers (except for your sub stage). Most SQ purists don't run any rear fill at all. Personally, I like rear fill; I have a rear seat set up for entertainment of passengers, and I also play movies and concert DVDs in 5.1, so I do run rear speakers.

Based on the fact that you have a 7cu/ft box in your truck, I'd assume you go for SPL and not sound quality.

That would be an incorrect assumption. I think most car audio guys in the know would actually look at my system list and realize that it's much more tailored to SQ than SPL. Do you know much about the components I run or the processing capabilities of the 701? Are you familiar with what JL HD amps were created and intended for? Don't get me wrong - it's LOUD when I want it to be, but with the time, money, and energy I've invested in it, if I wanted it to be an SPL system, I would have gone a completely different direction, and it would have a lot more than two 15s in it. That said, it was not designed, built, or ever intended to be a competition SQ vehicle. It's just something I built for my own enjoyment to accurately reproduce different formats and get loud while sounding very, very clean and clear, with good staging and imaging. Those who know SQ understand that staging and imaging are the most difficult aspects of car audio to get just right, and you certainly can't get it done with speakers in your B-pillars.

I've been installing custom stereos for about 15 years now, I've built boxes to fit in places that no box could fit. The way I'm doing it works just fine. I have customers that would certainly agree.

I was just trying to help. To be honest, I figured you were just some novice getting into the car audio scene, with grand (but misguided) plans. A lot of people are never shown the ins and outs of putting together a great sounding system. I've been a car audio fanatic for a long time, so I like to help guide people down the right track when I can. If you believe that you know what you're doing, then you're not going to listen to my advice anyway. At the end of the day, if it sounds good to you and your customers, then maybe that's all that matters, anyway. I don't doubt it, either, because a lot of people don't have a clue about good sound reproduction in an automobile.

Good luck with your build.
 






Well I have
Alpine 9886 head unit
4 18" Incriminator Audio Death Penalty subwoofers
2 Incriminator Audio 40.1 sub amps (8,000 watts rms)
MB Quart DSC4125 4 channel mids/highs amp
4 6.5" American Bass mids, 2 6x9" mids, and 2 selenium super tweeters
DC Power 250 amp high output alternator
7 batteries total
fd1d4739.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoZrJ6Q69Xk&feature=fvwrel

Now THAT is more of an SPL-oriented vehicle. Good grief!

What batteries do you run, and do you still have issues with your electrical system?

I have a 250 amp alternator, big three, etc. I recently upgraded from an Optima red top to the Kinetic HC2400, and I still have bad voltage drop when I really pound on it. And heck, I'm running less than 3000 watts! I have thought about adding more batteries, but I didn't know if the alternator might still be the weak link. I've even considered trying to fab up a dual-alternator setup. That would be pretty sick.
 






Now THAT is more of an SPL-oriented vehicle. Good grief!

What batteries do you run, and do you still have issues with your electrical system?

I have a 250 amp alternator, big three, etc. I recently upgraded from an Optima red top to the Kinetic HC2400, and I still have bad voltage drop when I really pound on it. And heck, I'm running less than 3000 watts! I have thought about adding more batteries, but I didn't know if the alternator might still be the weak link. I've even considered trying to fab up a dual-alternator setup. That would be pretty sick.

Thanks, and yes it was designed more for spl but it is definitely my daily driver that can play a wide range of music and actually sound good while doing it.

My voltage is actually holding up decent but I would prefer to get some different batteries and also thinking of doing an dual alt, it's just I think I'd have to lose the AC.

I've done the big three also and am running a kinetik 1800 up front and then 3 of the 100ah c&d technology batteries and 3 deka intimidator 100ah. Would like to ditch all the ones in the rear and get 4-5 either kinetik 2400's or xs power d3100's both are great car audio batteries.

I also have 2 runs of 0 gauge wire from the positive on the front battery to the positive on the rear and just grounded it twice in the rear but I have more wire that I'm waiting to install, and I'm going to add another positive run and then add 3 negatives from the front to back so I'm sure I will have a good ground because that is often times a reason for voltage drop. So will have a total of 6 runs of wire. I would suggest that you add one more battery in the back and possibly another run of wire from front to back and if you already have a h/o alt you should be all set! Good luck :).
 






Holy **** 46 thats insane! ur gunna rattle ur car apart bro! I kno i did it back in the day! LOL Now im more into soundquality and just enought bass to sound good! :) Hence the hertz fronts and 10 JL Sub!
 






Holy **** 46 thats insane! ur gunna rattle ur car apart bro! I kno i did it back in the day! LOL Now im more into soundquality and just enought bass to sound good! :) Hence the hertz fronts and 10 JL Sub!
Lol thanks. And yea I broke one of my roof supports so when I go to redo my headliner in black im going to try and fix that and deaden the roof and foam the supports to help the roof out a bit ha. :D

But yea I definitely have respect for a nice sound quality setup, even a little bass helps :)
 






I better update my list...replaced the p3s with two t2s, and got a hifonics Brutus 2600 watt amp. The T2s bump like I've never heard before, if anyone is looking to get some comp subs I would look into t2s, they are insane.
 






I better update my list...replaced the p3s with two t2s, and got a hifonics Brutus 2600 watt amp. The T2s bump like I've never heard before, if anyone is looking to get some comp subs I would look into t2s, they are insane.

I actually need to update mine as well. I installed a pair of rockford "prime" tweeters in the headliner. I also figured out that the new Audiobahn subs are junk, so I ordered a pair of Pioneer Champion Series Pro 12"s. I'm still going to be able to fit them in the side panels with no loss of cargo space and without removing the third row seat.

206082_205278219499789_100000528363510_718892_4559422_n.jpg


http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...76166460_100000528363510_718891_5994385_n.jpg
 






I actually need to update mine as well. I installed a pair of rockford "prime" tweeters in the headliner. I also figured out that the new Audiobahn subs are junk, so I ordered a pair of Pioneer Champion Series Pro 12"s. I'm still going to be able to fit them in the side panels with no loss of cargo space and without removing the third row seat.

206082_205278219499789_100000528363510_718892_4559422_n.jpg


http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...76166460_100000528363510_718891_5994385_n.jpg

not a very good place to mount tweeters. Do they sound ok there?
 






not a very good place to mount tweeters. Do they sound ok there?

I toyed around with some different spots, but this was the best based on the "listen" test. If you mount them up front, you basically just have your front stage and your subs. Any farther back, and you can't really hear them. They are next to perfect right where they are. I amplified the 6" x 9"s in the doors, and I'm running the tweets off the deck, so it took some adjustment to get everything to sound right. Since my initial plan for subs fell through (new audiobahns are junk), I'm waiting for the subs to get in before I make my final adjustments. I'll let you know how it sounds. I'll tell you this, the highs and mids are LOUD.
 






I am working on a few ideas.
Memphis 5.25" M class Syncs
Image Dynamics ID Max12.
Alpine MRP-M500, Alpine MRP-F300
Just need a Head unit
 






Those are sick 46!
Heres my setup I have a jensen flip out, pioneer speakers hooked up to a four channel jensen amplifier and my sub is a 15 inch Power acoustik ****..
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Head Unit: Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB
Front Stage: Hertz ESK 165
Rear Stage: Hertz ECX 570
Sub: JL Audio 10W3v3
F/R Amp: JL Audio G4500
Sub Amp: Alpine MRP-M500
Wire: Lighting Audio, Tsunami
 






I added a Kenwood DNX 6160. Went back to the shop today and had everything installed.
 






head unit : Kenwood Excelon KDC-X794
front and rear speakers: Pioneer TS-A6872R 6 x 8" 3-way Speaker
Amp: Hifonics HFi55.4
sub mounted behind seat: Pioneer Shallow-Mount TS-SW301
 



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Well, here's mine. It's been a painfull process (and too damn expensive!)
Head unit: Alpine CDA-117
Front Speakers: JL Audio C3-650
Rear Speakers: Pioneer TSA-1627 or something (cheapies from previous time
Subwoofer: MTX TR7512-22
4Chan Amp: Focal Solid4
Mono Amp: Alpine MRP-M500
Alpine/Stinger wiring for power, and Phenoix Gold 4g for speakers

Sounds okay, but no where near where it should be.

Plans for future: Fiberglass speaker pods (front), and a sealed proper sized box for the sub.
 






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