What does it take to go from 4wd to 2wd?

[Dan Whitaker]

Is it possible to remove the the front differential, cv shafts, and driveshaft and then bust apart the CV joint and bolt the small splined shaft part into the hub assembly to keep the bearings together? He could keep his front bearings, spindles, and ABS stuff to save some $$$ on the project. This will work just fine on Chevy IFS trucks, and is often used as a "trail fix" or temporary fix when other stuff breaks, but I've never heard anyone mention it for our X's.

He would also have to stick the shaft in the front diff as well or he would loose his diff fluid. Unlike the Chevy set up that uses a flange on the diff that axle bolts to the diff the Explorer's shaft is splined and slides into the diff.

 

[5.0]

Right, but the CV-to-hub assembly would work fine? I think he wants to remove the front differential and driveshaft anyway.

On v6 Explorers, does the front driveshaft connect to the transfer case front output using a slip yoke or flange connection?


I'm considered converting my 5.0 AWD to 2wd also. My plan would be to replace the transmission with a 2wd trans or have mine rebuilt into a 2wd and remove the front differential, driveshaft, and cv shafts... and then bolting the small splined stub back into the hub assembly. My computer should be fine, since the way I understand it is that it thinks it's a 2wd already. I'm now up to 21 MPG with it. It has 184,000+ miles and weighs about 4,880 pounds, and gets driven at least 84 miles a day. A 2wd conversion would be worth the money if I get a few mpg's from it.

 

[gijoecam]

1)

Is it possible to remove the the front differential, cv shafts, and driveshaft and then bust apart the CV joint and bolt the small splined shaft part into the hub assembly to keep the bearings together? He could keep his front bearings, spindles, and ABS stuff to save some $$$ on the project. This will work just fine on Chevy IFS trucks, and is often used as a "trail fix" or temporary fix when other stuff breaks, but I've never heard anyone mention it for our X's.

2)

He would also have to stick the shaft in the front diff as well or he would loose his diff fluid. Unlike the Chevy set up that uses a flange on the diff that axle bolts to the diff the Explorer's shaft is splined and slides into the diff.

3)

Right, but the CV-to-hub assembly would work fine? I think he wants to remove the front differential and driveshaft anyway.

On v6 Explorers, does the front driveshaft connect to the transfer case front output using a slip yoke or flange connection?


I'm considered converting my 5.0 AWD to 2wd also. My plan would be to replace the transmission with a 2wd trans or have mine rebuilt into a 2wd and remove the front differential, driveshaft, and cv shafts... and then bolting the small splined stub back into the hub assembly. My computer should be fine, since the way I understand it is that it thinks it's a 2wd already. I'm now up to 21 MPG with it. It has 184,000+ miles and weighs about 4,880 pounds, and gets driven at least 84 miles a day. A 2wd conversion would be worth the money if I get a few mpg's from it.

1) Yes.
2) No.
3) It depends.

Yes, he could gut the outer CV and reinstall it in the hub to hold it together. However, if you're doing a full tear-out anyways, and he has the donor 2wd, why bother? Swapping spindles is only a matter of separating the ball joints and unplugging the ABS connectors. Heck, he doesn't even have to open a brake line in the process!

The front shaft on a 97 does not have a slip yoke on the diff housing. It's a solid flange bolted to the pinion. The rear connection is a flange for the CV joint sticking out of the transfer case. He can drop the driveshaft if he wants with no ill effects. However, as mentioned, if he's dropping the front axle anyways, it's a moot point.

IMHO, you'll never get your money back on a 2wd conversion that way... You'll still have front hubs that wear out and cost 10 times the bearings for a 2wd, and the fuel savings isn't as significant as you would think... If it gets you 2mpg (which is optimistic), taking you from 21 to 23, and we figure on $4/gallon, 500 miles per week, you would go from spending $95.24 per week to spending $86.95 per week... that's a savings of $8.29 per week.

Now, say you get that 2wd transmission for a steal at $200... It's going to take you 24 weeks driving 500 miles per week before you save enough in gas to cover just the cost of that $200 transmission.

Now, if you only drive 84 miles per day, that 420miles per week, that results in a fuel savings of $6.96 per week... barely enough to cover lunch at McDonalds one day a week. At that rate, just to cover the cost of the trans you got for a steal, it'll take almost 29 weeks.

If, at any point in there, you have to replace the front wheel bearings, there's a quick $300 out the window in parts... there's another 43 weeks of driving to make that up, as opposed to 3 weeks of driving to save on the 2wd bearings...

it just doesn't make a whole lotta sense IMHO... It'll take forever to get your money back, if you ever do.

 

[X~FACTOR]

So I could basically remove what is shown here, correct?

 

[X~FACTOR]

Is this the "Brown wire mod"?

 

[gijoecam]

Is this the "Brown wire mod"?

Yes, but there's no need to clip it if you're removing the front half of the drivetrain.

And yes, everything you posted in the previous post was correct.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto what Joe mentioned, the cost of swapping out just some 4WD parts is not feasible.

If best fuel economy is the goal, do two things, hunt a 2WD donor for parts, and change fluids to the best synthetics. If you look hard enough, you may find another person who wants to swap to 4WD, then you both save money. Here is a great place to find those people. When you are all done, then buy a flasher with PCM programming for best fuel economy, likely for mid grade gas. Regards,

 

[Gus Gorilla]

I think the best question is WHY? I know 4x4 seems like a weight causing gas wasting option. But when you need it, you really need it.

 

[X~FACTOR]

I don't need it. It comes in handy about once or twice a year. I would definitely not miss it.
I'm obsessed with weight savings. Its a sickness. Is there a thread on what else I could remove to save weight? I don't want to start another...

 

[X~FACTOR]

Yes, but there's no need to clip it if you're removing the front half of the drivetrain.

Wait. I thought that's the first thing to do according to Hartman?

 

[Hartman]

At one point, I was without the front axle, front driveshaft, rear bumper (rollpan instead), and spare tire. My MPGs improved maybe .5mpg if that.

 

[Hartman]

I thought it was required, but apparently it is not.

 

[gijoecam]

Only if he was going to keep the 4wd...

FWIW, I get 21 mpg myself on these last three tanks. All I've done is stopped setting the cruise at 75 to and from work, and started cruising at 62-65, occasionally drafting behind a semi when possible. Mine's a bone-stock SOHC 4x4 with 156,000 miles on it. That's the best mileage it's gotten in the 10 years I've been driving it.

 

[X~FACTOR]

You will need the following:
- 2WD spindles
- Inner and outer spindle bearings, dust seal, castle nut, cotter pin, and dust cap
- 2WD rotors
- 2WD ABS sensors

Where would be a good place to buy these things? New or used. I want to do this right.

 

[Hartman]

Spindles at a junkyard or from the FS section here if possible. Bearings dust seal, castle nut, and other hardware can be purchased at an auto parts store. I would purchase rotors from R1 Concepts. ABS sensors where ever you can find them.