What front suspension parts need replacement at 168k miles?

[SyberTiger]

I'm holding out before putting new tires on the 2002 Explorer until I replace the front suspension parts necessary before you do a front-end alignment. Why ruin a set of new tires when the front end can't be aligned properly. What parts specifically wear out with that many miles that are critical for a proper alignment?

Is the following the complete list? (2) Front Upper Control Arms with Ball Joints, (2) Outer Tie Rods, (2) Inner Tie Rods, (2) Sway Bar End Links, (2) Lower Ball Joints

 

[mountaineer2004]

That about covers it. It'll ride like new, or at least better!

 

[DFOFF]

Why not take it to an alignment shop (the one you plan to take it to for the alignment) and have them check it out. They can tell you what needs to be replaced and what doesn't. Why replace a bunch of parts that don't need to be replaced. Check first but they usually just charge a small fee for looking at it.

 

[SyberTiger]

Why not take it to an alignment shop (the one you plan to take it to for the alignment) and have them check it out. They can tell you what needs to be replaced and what doesn't. Why replace a bunch of parts that don't need to be replaced. Check first but they usually just charge a small fee for looking at it.

I'm pretty well convinced that at 168K miles the parts are worn enough to merit replacement. All the rubber pieces seem to have dissinegrated so paying someone $100 to tell me what I already see as worn out when the parts cost $100 seems like a bad move. Just wanted to know which parts contribute towards the alignment.

 

[mountaineer2004]

My Mounty couldn't properly be aligned when I got new tires recently,
so they replaced the upper and lower control arms for both front tires.
They said the rears were ok. They also replaced the rear tie rods/compensators.
It does ride noticeably better now. But I have 252k miles.

The job was expensive, are you sure it needs to be done?
Unless you plan on keeping it for a long time, maybe you can hold off this time.
No one mentioned any alignment problems at 168k.

But if you do plan on keeping it, do it sooner than later.
Why spend all that money and only enjoy the improvement for a short time.

 

[LMHmedchem]

If you are going to keep the truck, make sure you use quality parts from a brand like Moog Problem Solver line, AC Delco Professional, or Motorcraft, etc. Others may suggest additional brands. I would stay away from kits as they are often made up from lower quality parts, even if the kit is from a good brand. Kits can save you money, but at least check the part list carefully. You don't want to do all of that work and then have to do it again in a couple of years because you used cheap parts. I would also do the work yourself. Suspension work is just about the easiest work to do on a truck. Put your budget into quality parts, not someone else's labor.

There are many levels of parts and most brands make economy parts as well as higher quality lines. Make sure you know what you are getting. This is another issue with not doing the work yourself. You often have no idea what parts are being installed. Some shop used cheap parts because they won't mind at all if you have to have it all done again next year.

The front upper ball joints are typically replaced along with the upper control arm that will come with a ball joint already installed. The lower control arms don't need to be replaced very often, though you can certainly replace the ball joints and bushings. It can be a good idea to replace the nut on the bolt for the strut as the nut retainer can rust away.

You will want to have a look at your struts and also your bearings. Good struts run $75-$125 each and front hub and bearing assemblies run $105-$140. This can significantly increase the cost of the job but it's a good idea to to while you have things taken apart.

Plan on an alignment after you have done the work. Certainly something will need to be adjusted.

LMHmedchem

 

[SyberTiger]

I just replace the front wheel hubs (for a second time) this past weekend. I went with Moog parts. Last time I replaced them when the vehicle had 118k miles on the originals. I used SKF (Timken bearings) and they suprisingly only lasted 50k miles. We'll see how Moog hubs holds up. I will definity be changing out the front struts. The rears were changed out two years ago.

 

[LMHmedchem]

I find it surprising that a SKF hub and bearing assembly failed quickly. SKF usually makes very high quality parts. Are you sure it wasn't SKP? SKP makes more economy parts. I also don't see why a SKF hub assembly would have a Timken bearing. SKF is a Swedish manufacturer that mostly makes bearings, so I don't see why they would use parts from Timkin. Who knows these days with all the re-branding going on.

At any rate, make sure that for your new hub and bearing assembly, the axle nut has been tightened to the correct torque settings. Over tightening the axle nut is a common reason for early bearing failure.

I like the KYB Strut Plus product. They only cost about $125 each at RockAuto. Moog are also good. Munroe Quick Strut are probably the least expensive I would go. What did you use for the rear struts?

LMHmedchem

 

[SyberTiger]

SKP, don't they make peanut butter? I was wondering what that creamy ooz was.

They were SKF hubs bought from Rock Auto. The bearings were marked Timken. The axle nuts are torqued to spec 184 ft-lbs. It's very possible that I disrupted the optimal radial and axial load on the bearings as they were engineered when I changed out the rims years ago from 16" to 20" and have an increased offet that moves the angle of load outward away from the hubs. It's a theory but really don't know.

 

[mountaineer2004]

^^ Sounds complicated (to me), but probably correct.

 

[SyberTiger]

Well, just a little more that 2 years later I finally got around to changing out the front suspension components out....LOL! I'm right at about 180,000 miles on my 2002 Explorer. And yes, the ball joints were shot...loose and floppy. For both sides I changed out the front (1) upper control arm, (2) ball joint for lower control arm, (3) inner tie rod, (4) outer tie rod end, (5) strut and (6) sway bar link. I used the videos below to assist with determining what tools I would need and the technique.

The videos are pretty decent but I ran into some caveats:

1. I noticed a few discrepancies with regard to bolt/nut sizes so I had several stop/starts to make a run to pick up other wrench/socket sizes. And, unfortunately the replacement parts sometimes had different bolt/nut sizes so again stop/start to make a run to pick up more free rental tools. I think the fact that I have an early model 2002 has something to do with these discrepancies as Ford probably changed out bolt/nut sizes throughout the 3rd generation production.
2. Pickle forks were a no go for me. Beating on the aluminum knuckle just doesn't sound like a great thing to do. It seems to work in the videos so your mileage may vary. But honestly, it's a lot simpler to separate the ball joints using a ball joint separator tool. THIS ONE worked great and only took an easy minute or two to separate the ball joints....so much easier and quieter than pickle forks.
3. I could not get the inner tie rod end to unscrew from the power steering rack. I tried a breaker bar to the point were I felt very uncomfortable with the amount of pressure on the power steering rack. The easy solution was to use a propane torch to heat up the inner tie rod end for about a minute. Then it was easy-peasy to unscrew the tie rod end.

Total delivered cost of the parts was $455. Not sure how much a mechanic would have charged to replace the 6 components on each side but I'm gonna guess it would have been a lot of bucks.

 

[SyberTiger]

Now, I need to think about doing the rear upper control arms, toe links, lateral links, rear sway bar links/bushings. Not sure about the rear lower knuckle bushing or the process to change it if anyone has experience on how to remove/install them.

 

[icepickjazz]

Now, I need to think about doing the rear upper control arms, toe links, lateral links, rear sway bar links/bushings. Not sure about the rear lower knuckle bushing or the process to change it if anyone has experience on how to remove/install them.

I recently replaced most of the rear suspension on my '04 Explorer. I kept the upper control arms, but replaced the upper ball joints. I replaced the lateral links, rear sway bar links, steering knuckle and the rear lower knuckle bushings too. I used ball joint press and socket. Lots of PB blaster and a hammer. Press from front to rear to remove. To install press from front to rear to install. I don't remember the exact size, but had to purchase a deep socket to press out. The post below references 1-1/16 socket. I used deep impact and was between 30-35MM but i have forgotten the exact size. I also used a digital caliper to measure the front and back depth of the lower bushing before pressing out and used those measurements to press back in.

Some posts that might help

lower rear ball joints for 2002 4wd exploer

I had a service shop tell me that my rear cross axial ball joints (lower?) were loose. I also need new struts for the rear since one of the struts is shot. With a 4 wheel alignment the quote was $700. I am looking to do it myself and am looking for any information that will help with this task...

www.explorerforum.com

Rear lower control arm bushing replacement?

Hey everyone, I've been away for awhile again. I was wondering if anyone has had the bushings on the rear lower control arm replaced? Rock auto sells a rear bushing and a bushing for where the LCA joins with the knuckle. I am curious if they are DIY friendly, or if I am looking at taking them to...

www.explorerforum.com

The video quality is not great, but this is generally the procedure I followed to press out. Press form front to back.

 

[SyberTiger]

Much thanks! I think that poster made a mistake about 1-1/16" socket and you are correct that it's a 30mm (1-3/16") socket that roughly matches the lower knuckle bushing.

Regarding the rear upper control arm ball joint. I read a thread where someone stated that he had pressed out the old one then pressed in a new ball joint but had a clearance problem. I believe his new ball joint was slightly too high about the control arm and it scraped against the inside of the wheel. He then advised everyone that the entire upper control arm should be replaced as it had the correct specs. I would assume he probably had 15" rims. I have 20 inch rims and below you can see I have about 2-1/4" clearance so it's likely not an issue for me. Do you have 16" rims?

I'm interested to know more about the upper ball joint you replaced on the rear control arm. Did you simply use a ball joint press to remove it while the arm was still attached to the vehicle? And, was it just as easy to press in a new ball joint? And, can you share which specific ball joint your purchased? Thanks again!

 

[SyberTiger]

Maybe something like this?

Amazon product ASIN B009B4060U

 

[SyberTiger]

Just did an inspection with the wheels off the rear. I noted that I have Moog links that I forgot I had installed on rear stabilizer bar 5 years ago which still look good. The rear passenger side stabilizer bushing is completely gone and the driver side is half rotted out...LOL!

 

[icepickjazz]

I didn't have any problems using ball joint press and hand plenty of clearance. My wheels are 17". I pressed it in and out same way the front ball joints would be replaced. Everything was still on the vehicle. Since i was replacing the most of the rear suspension component including the knuckle, the knuckle wasn't attached so that might have help with clearance issues. Not sure.

The cross axis ball joint (lower) was a DELPHI TD5764W. The rear upper ball joint was a Mevotech MS40517

 

[icepickjazz]

Maybe something like this?

Amazon product ASIN B009B4060U

Those should work.

 

[SyberTiger]

I didn't have any problems using ball joint press and hand plenty of clearance. My wheels are 17". I pressed it in and out same way the front ball joints would be replaced. Everything was still on the vehicle. Since i was replacing the most of the rear suspension component including the knuckle, the knuckle wasn't attached so that might have help with clearance issues. Not sure.

Thanks, I appreciate it! I'll pull the knuckles off. Last time I did that was 10 years ago to replace the rear hub bearing.

 

[SyberTiger]

I just completed replacing the bushings on the rear lower control arms, ball joints on rear upper control arms, toe links, lateral links, and rear sway bar bushings. I had previously replaced the rear struts and rear sway bar links. Here are some observations/notes:

1. I removed the knuckle for easier access and work area to press out then press in the ball joints on the control arms. To make it less complicated I left the rotors on the knuckle. With the extra weight of the emergency brake hardware and the rotor it did make the assemble much heavier. Leave the emergency brake cable attached but remove the 10mm nut holding the emergency brake cable bracket. Remove the speed sensor bolt from the caliper and set the speed sensor cable out of the way. I placed the entire assembly off to the side on a 5 gallon bucket. Again, the entire knuckle assembly is heavy the way I did it so when it's time to put them back on it takes a little muscle-dexterity to get it aligned and hold it in place before sliding the lower bushing bolt through.
2. It takes a little muscle to get the bushings on the rear lower control arms out. On the driver side I used PB Blaster and with some time-patience-muscle and a breaker bar on a ball joint press to get it out. To press it out the old then press in the new bushing I enlisted the use of a "regular" 30mm deep socket (Husky brand from Home Depot) socket that was perfectly sized about 1mm smaller in diameter than that of the bushing. A 30mm impact deep socket has thick walls therefore the diameter to too big so use a regular socket. On the passenger side I skipped the PB Blaster altogether. I used a propane torch to heat up the area for about 1 minute all around it. It came out a lot easier than the side that I used PB Blaster. I did use the DELPHI TD5764W as ordered from Rock Auto.
3. The ball joints on the rear upper control arm are fairly easy to press out. Getting the new ball joints pressed in is a bit frustrating. They easier wanted to go in cattywampus so I had to try a number of times before they would go in relatively straight but still not perfect but I just rammed them in until they were pressed in all the way and flush with the control arm. I did use the Mevotech MS40517 since they have the grease zerks.
4. The toe links and lateral links were a chinch to replace and the process was non-eventful. Easy-peasy.
5. I went with Prothane polyurethane rear sway bar bushing for better or for worse. I almost with with Moog rubber replacements but after seeing how the original rubber ones deteriorate I passed on rubber. The Prothane bushings are quite rigid making it hard to persuade them to open them up at the split then slide them over the sway bar. But, if you microwave a coffee cup full of water until it boils then drop the Prothane bushings in for 5 minutes it will temporarily soften them up and they easily open up and slide over the sway bar while still pretty warm.

Total cost of parts delivered was $198 to do both sides.