what should i look for in a used mountaineer

[kit352]

im looking to get into a newer mountaineer or explorer. Im coming from a first gen so i have an idea of the big items like shackles and stuff. What should i be looking at in a higher mileage one. im gonna try to get a v8 but im really gonna try the hardest to get a clean, clean bodied one with minimal rust so i may get stuck with the v6. any tips or common issues on these i should avoid? Im not worried so much about the motors themselves since ive had dozens of the 302's and a few v6's too its everything else i dont know too much about.

 

[Willcall]

Driver side spring sag
worn and squeaky ball joints (causes alignment issues if not dealt with)
transmissions on the V6s can kind of fragile depending on who owned it before
SOHC V6 will need timing chain replacement IMMEDIATELY

I have the OHV V6 (219,000 on it now) and its a pretty tough engine. The first 3 are ones I have dealt with personally. My transmission had to be rebuilt.

 

[spacecadebt]

If you find an AWD Mounty/Explorer make sure you test drive it. Listen for clunking noises while under load. This could mean it has a bad transfer case. In my opinion i would stay away from the AWD. I have had lots of trouble my AWD system. But thats just my experience.

I know your dead set on a clean body but try to find a later model 2wd 5.0 (1999-2001). They are the best in my opinion. Ford made lots of little improvements over the years. 5.0s are so much more reliable in my opinion. No timing chain problems, 10x better transmission, more torque and the list goes on.

But other then that just check it out thoroughly and make sure there is nothing fishy going on like you would when buying any used car.

My 1996 5.0 has over 300k miles on it and still going.

Best of luck!

 

[RobWilJas]

I would get either a 2wd or awd 5.0, depending on what you want. They have by far the most reliable engine and transmission. If you want 4x4 you can pretty easily swap in a manual t-case into the awd. I would avoid the 4.0 SOHC at all costs because of the timing chain issues.

spacecadebt saying that if an awd clunks it has a bad t-case is not true. The most common cause of noise on them is the front driveshaft.

 

[spacecadebt]

spacecadebt saying that if an awd clunks it has a bad t-case is not true. The most common cause of noise on them is the front driveshaft.

Not true. Yes the drive shafts are known to make noise when they go bad but everyone assumes its the front drive shaft because when they take it out the noise goes away. The chain inside the tcase stretches over time and skips teeth and thats what makes the clunking noise. When you take the front drive shaft out there is no more tension on the chain therefore no more clunking. I have never seen an AWD tcase last more than 100k. I have had two in mine and i gave up after the second one and converted to 2wd. Not to mention i have had two sets of cv axles and a new front drive shaft.


Unless you really want AWD i would try to steer clear of it. There are just to many moving parts that suck up power and economy. I really dont see the need for AWD in such a lagre vehicle anyways. But to each his own

 

[techieman33]

The awd is very reliable, lots of transfer cases with well over 200k miles on them and no problems at all. It sounds like spacecadebt has just had a bad run of luck.

 

[kit352]

thanks for some info guys. unfortunately 2wd is unheard of up here. its almost certainly going to be awd. I didnt know i could swap in a manual t-case which would be super nice.
Ill try to avoid the v6 too. that maybe harder since its rare i see clean versions of these up here.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Just do some research on what you'll be doing and what you'll need to do a manual TC swap, it's not a super easy job.

I've owned (3) V8 AWD's now, and had issues with them that I had to wrench with, this one is fine so far (knock on wedgewood blue) but I like it. In all 100% honesty though, if I had a choice of 2 identical trucks, I'd take a 4.0L OHV with ControlTrac over a V8 AWD. Just my preference... either way, everything is serviceable, and the AWD's are the heaviest duty powertrains.

One test you can do- When testing, Find a parking lot, put the truck in drive, take your foot off the gas and listen with the door open as the truck rolls under idle. If you hear "popping" noises from underneath, you have TC issues...

 

[RobWilJas]

Not true. Yes the drive shafts are known to make noise when they go bad but everyone assumes its the front drive shaft because when they take it out the noise goes away. The chain inside the tcase stretches over time and skips teeth and thats what makes the clunking noise. When you take the front drive shaft out there is no more tension on the chain therefore no more clunking. I have never seen an AWD tcase last more than 100k. I have had two in mine and i gave up after the second one and converted to 2wd. Not to mention i have had two sets of cv axles and a new front drive shaft.


Unless you really want AWD i would try to steer clear of it. There are just to many moving parts that suck up power and economy. I really dont see the need for AWD in such a lagre vehicle anyways. But to each his own

I'm not talking about assuming it's the driveshaft because when you take it out the noise stops. I'm talking about replacing the driveshaft and the noise stops. That means it's 100% the driveshaft, and it's common on these. And you haven't seen many AWD Explorers/Mountaineers if you haven't seen an AWD TC last more than 100k. I'm sorry you had bad luck with yours but if taken care of they're very reliable.

 

[Joe Dirt]

The "Taken care of" part is the hard part, especially if used. With that said, they are reliable. 100k in the AWD is a no brainer if the PO wasn't completely idiotic in maintenance and care.

And with that said... They're all mechanical, everything will break eventually...

 

[shadowless127]

I'm on my 3rd AWD 5.0 and only the 97 had t-case issues. 98 had 165K on it with orig t-case, and I just rolled over to 111K on my 01 Eddie Bauer w/ no issues.

Common issues:
Blend door Actuator
Squeaky Camshaft Synchronizer
Leaky exhaust manifolds on 5.0's
Leaky air springs if equipped with ARC
CV Joints and Hub assemblies

 

[kit352]

all good info guys, thanks. ill probably be looking in the 140k + range so im sure its goning to need some things. the v8's seem to be everywere around here. the v6's are plentiful if i step over to an explorer but for some reason the explorers have alot more rust issues(at least the ones ive seen). im ok with the v6 or the v8 but i know i can work the v8 over if i wanted to.

 

[Joe Dirt]

I would, however, take a V8 AWD over a V6 SOHC anyday...

 

[kit352]

whats the best year to buy? looks like some favor the 97-98 while others like the 99-01. i know the 97-98 have a slightly different head design and the awd drive system can be disabled with the brown wire but what else am i missing? id rather look for the better year if i can. Im already learning to stay away from the air ride ones. i saw a few that were jacked up on a corner or in the weeds. id rather just have plain shocks.

 

[RobWilJas]

No the AWD system can not be disabled with the brown wire mod. You're thinking of the Auto 4x4 system in the V6's. The V8's AWD is purely mechanical and is always AWD.

I'm not sure which is better. I do know if you plan to put in a manual 4wd t-case, it's easier in the later years. 96 and 97 (and maybe 98, can't remember when they switched it) have the vehicle speed sensor in the t-case, and the manual 4x4 t-case wont have that so you have to figure something out for a speedometer. Later Ford put the speed sensor in the rear axle, so putting in a manual 4x4 t-case is a lot easier.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Buy the newest you can. they're all very similar, the 2001's were the last bastion of updates and fixes to previous years.