Can transmission fluid make it to the coolant tank | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Can transmission fluid make it to the coolant tank

BruceExploder

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 3, 2018
Messages
312
Reaction score
74
City, State
Edmond OK
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Eddie Bauer
Can transmission fluid make it to coolant tank on these? I have a 1993 over 200k miles. The coolant level was low so I refilled it and upon checking again coolant looks pink? Trans cooler has a leaking line and transmission dipstick seems over full? I have a parts car that runs and drives I just never tagged it what should be my course of action?

16123047864031442035917010420335.jpg
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





First off, don't drive your EX. The radiator has 2 cores, one for coolant and the sides for transmission fluid. These can crack and mix coolant into your transmission, a huge problem on nissan Xterra's actually. You need to drain your cooling system and replace the radiator, and you need to drop the pan on your transmission replacing the filter. Automatic transmissions hold 12 to 15 quarts of fluid, and dropping the pan your going to get maybe 6 or 7 of them out. The coolant has been going through the entire transmission, and the only way to get all of it out is going to a shop and having them suck all of the fluid out through the cooler lines. With 200k on yours, this is a bad idea because your clutch packs and other internal items are conditioned to run with gritty or dirty fluid and introducing new fluid into the system will introduce slipping. Hopefully there is not a ton of coolant in either system leading to one flush being required. I would focus more on getting the coolant out of your motor then the transmission, chances are that a4ld was already on her way out and should be rebuilt but maybe you can salvage this. I would replace the radiator, fill it up with new coolant and get it up to operating temp with the heater blasting to circulate all of the fluid. Then drop the lower radiator hose ( don't use the petcock, there cheap plastic and break you don't wanna buy 2 radiators) and drain as much coolant as possible. Pulling the fuel pump relay and turning over the motor to spin the water pump and removing the thermostat can shoot more coolant out of the system to hopefully get as much ATF as possible out of the system. Same with your trans, drop the pan replace the filter and fill it with ATF. Rotate from P to N to R to D and holding for 10 to 20 seconds on each will allow the pump to flow fluid around the trans. Then drop the pan again and fill it up with new ATF. Check the fluid after letting the fluids mingle and hope all the coolant is out of the trans. Good luck.
 






If your coolant overflow tank has something inside that looks like a strawberry milkshake, then your transmission cooler (inside the radiator on the driver-side, IIRC) has burst. When running/driving, the transmission will be pumping trans fluid into the radiator and then into your engine. Same thing with your cooling system, it could be pumping coolant into your transmission. I had this happen on a Suburban once.

Two things here: You need to drain the cooling system completely and flush it multiple times to get all of the tans fluid (oil) out. The seals and gaskets in the cooling system are not rated to withstand oil and could deteriorate.

You also need to completely flush out the transmission as much as you can. As was mentioned above, just dropping the transmission pan and changing filters and what little fluid comes out is not enough. You will probably end up draining the trans at least 3-4 times, or pay a shop to run a flush.

The biggest issue with coolant in the transmission is the clutches. Water in a transmission will damage the clutch surfaces. It will soften the friction surface and then the material will just fall apart. You're looking at a full rebuild at that point.
 






I got lucky. It's rust making it look that color so I still need to change the radiator I have one on a parts car to switch out with. I ended up having to take a transmission cooler from a 2nd gen and switching it out for the old thin cooler that was leaky and it shifts back to normal now. When I switch the cooler out it brought the level back closer to what it should be
 






If your transmission fluid level is high I’d be concerned. Fluid doesn’t just grow.
 






fyi it takes just a few drops of water inside the auto transmission and it is doomed
The glue that holds the friction material to the bands will disintegrate with any moisture and fall apart
there is NO SAVING an auto trans that has water in it
It is on borrowed time
 






If your transmission fluid level is high I’d be concerned. Fluid doesn’t just grow.
This sucks. I wonder if the previous owner just had put too much in? When I bought the truck a few years ago I only looked at the color of the fluid I didn't check the level. I've driven it every single day since I changed the transcooler out and it's been fine? I don't have a goopy mix it's just rust in the coolant I looked in the radiator.

Soon as it's not below freezing I will drop the pan to make sure but she is driving like a dream my 98 xlt and mustang have been parked in the snow
 






Hopefully it was just a false alarm but the transmission fluid looks thin. In that pic the car was not running or level like when I checked it just FYI. I see coolant on the ground so that's probably where I was losing coolant way easier to see in the snow. There's a pic of the 2001 cooler in the grill too 🤣

IMG_20210216_155731550.jpg


IMG_20210216_155647747_HDR.jpg


IMG_20210216_155803148_HDR.jpg
 






The way we checked for moisture in transmission fluid when I was starting out was to put some in a metal spoon and hold a lighter under it while looking for boiling or spitting. They have since began using test strips made specifically for this test.

FLUID MOISTURE TEST STRIPS FOR 5 OILS # 80600​

Detects 0 - 5% Moisture Content In:
Engine (Gas & Diesel) Oil, ATF, Power Steering, Hydraulic & ALL Brake Fluids DOT 3, 4, 5.1, Synthetics & Conventional.


Water reduces the fluid's ability to do its work and promotes corrosion. In the case of the Brake Fluids, water reduces the boil point of the fluid potentially causing a safety hazard event. Fluid Diagnostic Test Strips assess the health of the fluid and identify when a fluid needs to be changes. Determining the presence of water is important to maintain the integrity of the vehicle components and early detection of moisture will minimize the impact of corrosion - avoiding costly repairs and loss. Water breaks down oil-additive packages. It promotes the formation of acids that corrode metal surfaces, supports oxidation in mineral-based oils, supports biological or microbial growth, especially with prolonged idling.

Test strip must be used immediately after opening foil pouch.

# 80600 Replaces ACUSTRIP #'s 6000, ACU6000, 40002


Moisture is a death sentence for automatic transmissions. If not immediate failure it will shorten the life span significantly.

Brad
 






Excellent info.
 






Thank you @Mbrooks420
Just passing along what I’ve learned over the years.
Brad
 






We appreciate it
 






It is coolant. I'm going to try flushing it and using some sea foam trans tune hopefully that prolongs it's life
 






If any body cares I'm pretty sure I saved it and caught in time. Flushed coolant changed radiator, flushed the transmission fluid thru lines and I could barely tell coolant was in it. Dropped pan changed filter added some seafoam trans tune in to help with whatever water was left over and took it for a drive. It slipped the first two shifts which scared me then was back to normal. Coolant is back green. Even if it just bought time I'm sure it's alot longer than if I hadn't flushed it all out. Going to add a external filter and a extra cooler and keep an eye on it.

IMG_20210222_205225582.jpg
 






fyi it takes just a few drops of water inside the auto transmission and it is doomed
The glue that holds the friction material to the bands will disintegrate with any moisture and fall apart
there is NO SAVING an auto trans that has water in it
It is on borrowed time

Do you think the seafoam trans tune could help get the moisture out? Or that I could rebuild a A4LD myself? 😅
 






Maybe, and maybe.
 






Maybe, and maybe.
Thanks that makes me feel better. Gonna buy the transmission manual I have a parts explorer I can take the trans out to rebuild. I would put it on but I won it at auction and the transmission fluid is jet black 😅
 






The two most important things required for rebuilding an auto trans are a good manual and the proper tools (mostly a good press, proper snap-ring pliers, and anything other tool specific for that trans). The manual should tell you proper locations and direction of things like thrust bearings; correct placement of valve-body check valve balls; resistance testing values of any solenoids, etc.

Once you have those things, working on an auto trans is not much different than digging into an engine. Make sure you have a big, clean work space that will allow you to spread out parts and line them up in proper placement and sequence of removal. Organization is key!

It all seems daunting at first, but when you think that there are plenty of people around the world that work on these things everyday, it can't be THAT hard to learn it also! (Granted, there are always those that shouldn't be allowed to even hold a screwdriver in their hands...)
 






The two most important things required for rebuilding an auto trans are a good manual and the proper tools (mostly a good press, proper snap-ring pliers, and anything other tool specific for that trans). The manual should tell you proper locations and direction of things like thrust bearings; correct placement of valve-body check valve balls; resistance testing values of any solenoids, etc.

Once you have those things, working on an auto trans is not much different than digging into an engine. Make sure you have a big, clean work space that will allow you to spread out parts and line them up in proper placement and sequence of removal. Organization is key!

It all seems daunting at first, but when you think that there are plenty of people around the world that work on these things everyday, it can't be THAT hard to learn it also! (Granted, there are always those that shouldn't be allowed to even hold a screwdriver in their hands...)

I've been as far as changing the valve body in my 5r55e when I had a SOHC and fixed it but have never been thru a whole transmission. I'll try here soon.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





(Granted, there are always those that shouldn't be allowed to even hold a screwdriver in their hands...)
That's me ;)
 






Back
Top